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MeyGray3833

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About MeyGray3833

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    Star Forming

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    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Astrophotography, Motor Racing, Cooking, Family
  • Location
    Australia
  1. Purple in the image is now fixed, thanks to Bill! I will remember that one for sure. ?
  2. Thanks Bill, I shall give it a go. ?
  3. Finally completed my SHO version. There is some purple in the image I cannot figure out how to get rid of and I'm sick of playing with it. Hints and tips on how to get rid of it welcome, I'm using PixInsight. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169136922 Scroll to the bottom for size options and details. Thanks for looking!
  4. Hi David, Thanks for your comments. It only took about 5 complete fresh starts and a week and a bit after work etc. to get it to where I was happy with it. I know that Ha and OIII aren't meant to make natural colour! I've added the image details in for those that cannot see it on the link provided in my original post. Generally the heat is dry although it gets humid at times, although not really tropical. The problem is that the seeing is badly affected by the heat rise and some nights we were lucky to get below 25°C. Those nights the guide star jumps all over the place, which doubles the seeing error equaling a poor quality image. I share the obs with my brother and we both pulled out the scopes for about 5 weeks in the middle, it was near on impossible to do anything. Some very nice stuff on your website, by the way! Cheers and clears!
  5. Hello Astro Peeps, I hope everyone is all good! Isn't there some amazing images on this site and others. Amateur imaging has never been so good! I myself have finally managed to get some data for an image, of which I am very happy. It has been so hot here it has been impossible to get any good data. One day a couple of months ago, I hung the thermometer from the grape vine under the back verandah and it was 47.5°C. Sounds far fetched, although true. I live in Adelaide, South Australia and we are 11km from the CBD and usually 1.5 degrees hotter than there! Anyway, I thought I'd try my hand at a Ha, OIII bi-colour image while waiting for my SII data to come in. There seems to be a halo issue with some of the filters for which I will need to do further testing so I apologise for their distracting nature. Details are with the image but basically 3hrsx15min subs for each channel. https://pbase.com/grahammeyer/image/169113477 You can scroll to the bottom to choose another size or auto to fit your screen. Happy photon collecting! ? Details for those that cannot see them. Telescope: William Optics FLT132 Guide Scope: QHY OAG Camera: QHY9 Mono @ -20c Filter Wheel: QHY 7 position Ultra Slim Filters: Baader 36mm unmounted L R G B HA OIII SII Guide Camera: QHY5L-II Mount: AZ-EQ6 Mount Control: EQASCOM Focusing: SharpSky Pro and Sequence Generator Pro 3 (automated) Bahtinov Mask: No (initial focus) Capture Software: Sequence Generator Pro 3 Guiding Software: PHD2 Calibration and Stacking Software: PixInsight Processing Software: PixInsight Number and Type of Data Frames: L= X min, R= x min, G= x min, B= x min Ha= 12x15min, SII= x , OIII= 12x15min. Binning: 1x1 Total Image Time: 6 hrs Location: Lockleys Observatory B, Tanunda, Sth Australia Light Box by Exfso
  6. Ok, so the way you described it is how I set it up originally. I thought that I placed it wrong and added a 10mm spacer for giggles to see what would happen. Hard to get good star shape now. So, really this flattener is not suitable for a dedicated astro set up? If you want to dabble with a DSLR, all good. The other flattener that I have has a backfocus of 88mm plus 1 mm for filters. https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p2646_TS-Optics-PHOTOLINE-Full-Frame-APO-Corrector---Flattener-for-astrophotography.html This unit appears to be made with cameras other than DSLR's in mind.
  7. Your modesty is a virtue, William. I have not fitted the field stops at this stage, I am a little bit over the battle at the moment, so I've decided to capture a few images with what I have for the moment and digest all that has come to pass. In doing so, I have been contemplating the new flattener that I have aside for the scope and was thinking about back focus distances which got me to thinking about my current setup. Can someone interpret the specs on this page for the Flat IV particularly the recommended lens to chip distance and back focus recommendations. https://www.cyclopsoptics.com/flattener-reducer/william-optics-flat4-0-8x-reducer-flattener/ I take it that the 66-86 mean the numbers on the flattener adjustment and the back focus is the distance from the chip to the back of the flattener?
  8. Wow, when Olly said you were the expert on this, he was not kidding! Thank you so much for all your effort so far. ? I will certainly give that a try and report back with my results. Seeing as the weather is so hot and guiding is poor due to the wobbly sky, it is the right time of year to do this. It is going to be 43 here tomorrow, it is 36 today. Glad I'm not missing out on too much! ?
  9. Thanks everyone for your help. As it stands today, I am defeated! ? William was right, I fear. After all the messing about and travel time as my obs is remote (120km round trip), I think I must concede that it is a reflection between the flattener and the filters. Nothing that I have done has changed anything except to remove the flattener. I have tried with no filter, which works as well, turning the filters around, painting the inside of the flattener and replacing the focuser among other things. I have another full frame flattener, a TS 2.5 inch that I will have to get some adapters made for so I can fit and test. At this stage, it will be imaging with out a flattener as I see no reason to persist. That will require a guider recal and possibly longer guide exposures to pick up guide stars as I notice the flattener can really help to resolve guide stars for OAG usage. Cheers and clears.
  10. I think the Dulux Dura Max will be the best. As for the painting itself, I have prepsol to clean the surfaces and yes, painting it with the spray can would be suicide. ? I am aware that replacing the flattener changes the focus point of the scope with the tube setup moving the focuser out which could possibly change where a reflection from something else might hit although I am sure that once you see the flattener internals it will be very easy to match up the off axis reflection with the components inside the flattener. Seeing the dot in the two images gave a pretty good hint once I looked in the flattener. Oh well, onward and upwards!
  11. William, are either of these suitable? I was thinking the Dulux Duramax by the cap colour? https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-300g-high-heat-enamel-spray-paint-black_p1400735 https://www.bunnings.com.au/white-knight-high-temp-300g-pot-belly-black-spray-paint_p1563023
  12. Thanks for all the info. I appreciate the feedback, links and advice, all good stuff! ? The sky magically cleared last night so I spent a few hours testing, swapping bits, etc. It is the flattener. If I put a tube in the imaging train where the flattener was, hey presto, no reflections. Refit the flattener, hello artifact, welcome back! ? I tested without the flattener, with the flattener and then without again on the same two objects that had been giving me trouble to ensure I had reasonably consistent results. I will try to photograph the flattener and the issue I think it is before I pull it apart and paint it inside and retest it. I am at work at the moment so I shall try to do that tonight. Now, about the tilt.....?
  13. Thanks Whirlwind, my F/Touch came with the adapter to make it the same size as a WO end so I will sus this out! ?
  14. Thank you Olly for the image. I think at this stage, and I am hoping, that the issue is a reflection bouncing inside the flattener off the shiny black anodising. That may explain where it is showing up. Awaiting better skies, as always! ??
  15. I see. ? To be honest, I cannot remember when this first started. I have tried to think back and I can only say maybe since I replaced the QHY filters with the Baader ones. The two shots, L & G were taken straight after each other, both were guided 5 min sub frames. Is that enough to allow the camera setup inc flattener to move? Or could it be that one of the filters is not sitting square. Ive recently had them all out to check them. I have a straight nose piece that I have used previously with no issues so I will change to that and add a tether, also something else I have done previously. I have pulled the flattener out and I am waiting for decent skies to do some testing. I can see into the flattener and while the "through" surface is a flat grey (I would not say black) the inside barrel is anodised and is highly reflective and appears to give a rflection of the "through" barrel. If testing without the flattener is fruitful, I will have to find a way to dis-assemble the flattener to paint it or flock it some how. That sounds a logical next step in the process, thank you. I am not able to find any arrows on the filters or any marks saying which way round the go. I have used good lighting and a magnifying glass. I searched online and it said for the Baader filters, if there is no arrow, the most reflective side goes to the scope, the other side to the camera. I will double check this. I am using a QHY9 Camera and a QHY ultra slim filter wheel with a QHY OAG and QHY5LII guide cam. Thank you William for your thoughts and suggestions. I hope I can get it sorted soon. ?
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