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alan potts

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Posts posted by alan potts

  1. Not quite the same issue and I have never seen these patterns before. I have the same .79, 3 inch reducer which I was lucky to get S/H here. I require 55mm which is fine with the DSLR just bang it on the back. However the Zwo 071 if I ever use it again also needs 55mm but with a filter which means I am needing a 6mm sleeve to add to the 5mm filter. The wheels came off when I found out FLO don't stock these and I won't use other outlets, so looks like the DSLR will not be going anywhere soon as I have the reducer screwed to the scope. We all know what problems I caused last time i touched the scope.

    Alan

  2. Had this on a few images last night and the night before, does anyone know why it happens from time to time. looks like light from somewhere, also had it on 2 images from NGC 7000 which I was just looking at to see how doable it was.

    No bright stars that near and no lights, focus could be better but I don't feel that is issue though guiding was very up and down from time to time. This is a 4 minute sub at 800iso

     

     

    DPP_08.thumb.JPG.26ade4a8ee43f9be33b7f8eb61b8728c.JPG

     

     

    Alan

  3. 2 hours ago, 5haan_A said:

    Thank you. I'll look into the mask. I think I saw that FLO are selling some reasonably priced ones. Although it would be cool to 3D print one of my own.

     

    Thanks. Any suggestions on an easier target? 

    For starting out I would have personally picked a star cluster or a globular cluster. M13 is a nice large one where you can see plenty even with limited data, don't try an be as good as some of the people on here straight away, what they do is superb but very difficult to get to the standard they are at and takes time, step by step. I tell you I not great but I have fallen from a few steps, all of this AP can cause even the best imagers problems, don't forget conditions are changing all the time which will not help.

  4. Very nice image there, I hope to be having a go at this soon, I have imaged it before but not guided, who know I may even do it with my 071, which I have put on the self as I am not friends with it at the moment, not the camera, me and software.

    Alan

    • Like 1
  5. That is 4 very nice colourful images, I wonder which is correct, I personally like the first and last. I can see this from here, just, but not possible to image it so low down, thanks for sharing something many of us will never see.

    Alan

  6. 16 minutes ago, wimvb said:

    For dslrs, flats may be the most important of the calibration frames. You will also need bias frames to calibrate the lights and flats. There is no general recipe here that always works. You will have to experiment.

    Is that was Bias are for Win, I just put them in, never have known why, when you know nothing it pays not to question too much.

    Alan

  7. A very nice and interesting image, what does this HOO stand for, it is actually a small village near to where I was born in Chatham, nice price tags on the house I believe.

    Alan 

    • Haha 1
  8. I was out for a couple of hours last night and the night before, exact same place in the sky give or take a bit. You would have thought last night I had a filter of some type in the camera comparing the results side by side, same sub length speed scope. the lot.

    Oddly it appear pretty much the same to my eye overhead anyway, the horizons were clearly unclear below Juptier.

    Alan

  9. 18 minutes ago, Laurin Dave said:

    Hi Alan.. Not really sure about that...  I've Only done one mosaic so far (with another I got at Olly's yet to do) and that was in Pixinsight where it said to make sure the edges were artefact free ie cropped to remove.   

    Dave

    There is a Mosaic program in EQmod, I think it is aimed mainly at the Moon but dare I try it, now what disaster can I cause by that I wonder.

    Alan

  10. 1 hour ago, Laurin Dave said:

    Very nice Alan for 45 minutes, its those dark skies...  glad you've got it all working again.  As Neil says easier just to crop them out.. did you move the scope or are they from dithering.. if you are dithering you'll always get a border (well I do) 

    Dave

    I was dithering but I moved the scope a couple of time as I was getting confident of is get back to where it started. I wanted to get Sadr out of the picture but leave it like it is now just to give the a bit of atmosphere to the shot On the mosaic idea I sort of thought if you did enough random over laps you would sort of loose the area where there's not enough info, this must happen at the top of an image when dithering, I only ever see any thing like an artifact at the bottom and R/h side.

    Alan

  11. 32 minutes ago, michael8554 said:

    That's a relief. Though Alan said the handset gave him grief, which surprises me. 

    Michael 

    Yes indeed Michael the handset gave me a lot of pointing problems and I actually think I understand that, I think its just me, I can have problems with an empty box. I sometimes thing mine was a Friday afternoon mount.

    Alan

  12. After sitting feeling rather pleased with myself, lord knows what for it was a site member that solved the problem with my poor pointing. So I am sitting there feeling happy for the first time in a week and the Canon clicking away banging out 5 minute subs at 800iso, could go longer but may nod off.

    Started with one check of focus and thought no more, anyway lost about one hour through being careless, must have knocked something as it was just out of focus and just not nice.

    However I am surprised what 45 minutes can give which is nowhere near enough, hopefully I will add to this tonight.

    Sadr.thumb.jpg.16a7b257251fac4e692c9e3e0b5d6a33.jpg

     Just a quick question to you more experienced imagers, how many frames do I need to get rid of the over laps you can see at the bottom of this image, if I wanted to add to it in a sort of mosaic picture?

    Alan

    • Like 6
  13. 2 minutes ago, Ouroboros said:

    Good news! Now you can get on with some imaging. And congrats to Stash for suggesting what turned out to be the solution.

    You've now got me wondering how my encoders are set in EQMOD.  What's the default?   (Although the question is somewhat academic as I'm in the process of trying out controlling everything using  KStars/EKOS/INDI from my MacBook). 

    Set Encoder to disable!!! I thought I was helping my guiding but then I'm thick. If you don't understand it do not touch it is the lesson here.

    Alan

  14. 5 hours ago, stash_old said:

    I never did tick the box - it was set automatically - honest 🙂

    Remember "slowly slowly catchy monkey" - I always follow this and never have problems - That nose is growing again - lol.

    Hope it (or anything else) works !

    Youvé done it, it works spot on 3 out of 4. Big thanks.

    Alan

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
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