SteveNickolls

Thanks for giving this your time and thoughts Neil and Ian. I'm going to devote today to trying the many options. Fortunately I do have a ASI120MM-S camera to use in place of the 178MC to try to narrow down on the matter. Will let you know how things get on. 👍 You never stop learning in this hobby that's for sure.

Cheers,
Steve

Hi, thanks for the thought about cooling but the 178MC is not TEC cooled. I did not have a dew heater strap on the optics that night but it was not a dewy night.

I hope to give more time tomorrow to investigating the phenomena and try out options such as using a different USB cable and different operating software. 

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks Ian and Neil for your inputs. I'm going to take a look at the imaging set up again today to see if there is anything amiss. The imaging set up is simply my ASI178MC and RedCat 51, used for lunar imaging and galaxy work. Will update the thread with anything I discover.

Cheers,

Steve

Last night I set up my alt-Az mount and RedCat 51 + ASI178MC camera to take some images of the Moon. After a cool down period of about an hour as the night got darker I was astonished to see a moving 'stained glass' or kaleidoscope effect on screen and wondered if it was caused by atmospheric cells being badly disturbed by the weather? Never before have I witnessed anything so pronounced as this. I regret I was so tired that I neither gave thought to check on the view through binoculars or to check the Jet Stream forecast-doh!

Views are invited.

Thanks,
Steve

The weather = 30+ nights for imaging per year, light pollution and getting older such that I prefer an early night over a late finish. But keep on smiling during those nights when it's great to be outside. 😄

Cheers,

Stdve

13 hours ago, MercianDabbler said:

Would you expect one to work well on a 4 inch achromat?

Well yes. Whenever I use my StarTravel 102 that's the tool I would use to help focus. You do need a bright star, not a faint star or double star etc and boost up your DSLR's ISO. Use 'Live View' on the touchscreen to help with the focus. good luck with the attempt.

Cheers,
Steve

Get a Bhatinov mask for your telescope and nail focus using a high ISO.  If you are careful you may be able to carry over good focus to the next session.

Good luck.

Cheers 

Stdve

He, he ordered last night. 👍

Cheers,

Steve

I had some success last night looking into the iPolar operation. On routine use of the iPolar and with the end of the camera covered if the 'connect' button is pressed a message pops up saying a new dark frame is needed. If you then press 'Settings' you will see that a timer is counting down the 20 seconds mentioned in the manual afterwhich you can take the dark frame. Last night after doing this procedure the iPolar immeaditaly took the first Position image and this showed both the camera's centre and the NCP. I was not instructed to take a second image from Position 2 so i just slightly adjusted the Alt and Az knobs on the mount to line up the camera centre and NCP. I subsequently monitored sucessive images taken in SharpCap Pro which showed little spread over time, indicating a good poalr alignment. I stil intend to check this process is robust and sometine will try checking the polar accuracy from the iPolar technique by checking using SharpCap Pro. Hope this helps others.👍

Cheers,
Steve

I have begun to look into the polar alignment of the iPolar and happened across this instructional video online which repays viewing.

It is the only video I have found that uses the v2.6 software, so is quite modern.

From it I have gathered that the ability to take a dark frame occurs after a 20 second countdown following connecting the iPolar, the previously unavailable 'Take Dark Frame' button can then be used. At this time I remain uncertain over the adequacy of the subsequent process involving Position 1 and Position 2 since the plate solving is so rapid and can occur even if you haven't been able to rotate to position 2, again more investigation is needed. I hope this helps others.

Cheers,
Steve

April 2022 Update

Or-to be sure, to be sure

Since receiving the new iPolar I have used v2.5 of the iPolar software on my GEM28 with only mixed results, sometines working and at other times the plate solved stars/NCP/Camera centre were jumping about the laptop screen. This is a 'known issue' and iOptron made an earlier version of software available (v2.21) to use to overcome this effect. However when I tried this software fix the iPolar wasn't recognised. I therefore jumped forward to using v2.6.05 and the new manual...

The v2.6.05 software has introduced a number of changes requiring modification to my set up procedure. The move is fraught by the difficult to interpret new manual so I have gone to the extent of re-writing my own interprettation of some parts which may well be subject to future changes as experience grows and practice is better honed. I need to add photos too.

iOptron iPolar Manual.docx

iOptron have helped prospective users of the new software version check if their computers meet the requirements to run the iPolar and the pre-requisites for the software to run-

The v2.6 software needs the 64-bit version of Win 7,8.1, 10 or 11 with .NET Frameworks 3.5 and 4.8 or later installed on the controlling computer to work.

For v2.6 iOptron have produced their downloadable ‘EnvironmentCheck.exe’ software allowing potential users to check their computer has the necessary components to allow the iPolar to work. This software will check that the computer has-

·         A 64-bit architecture installed.

·         Either Windows 7, 8.1, 10 or 11 installed.

·         .NET frameworks are installed.

·         ASCOM platform 6.5 or later is installed.

·         iOptron commander installed (presently v6.5).

Some confusion still exists for me with the manual around the taking of dark frames. One interprettation of the v2.6 manaul (January 2022) leads me to expect to take a new dark frame on each nightly session rather than re-using a dark frame from a past night. This has sense as you then have a dark frame which more likely reflects the temperature that evening. However I have been unable initially to take a new dark frame unless I first try to load a previous dark frame (when I then get the option released to take a new dark frame). This doesn't follow the manual. The manual also mentions that an automatic dark frame is taken after some twenty seconds count down period and perhaps needs making more clear.

I have used different iPolars and seen a number of iterations of advice over the polar allignment process over just a few short years. It seems that over time the process of rotating the mount head is being simplified, perhaps as the software ability improves. At one time you needed to move the mount head and take images from three positions, then to two and nowadays you may be fortunate to set up close enough but not too close to nearly align the camera's centre and the NCP from Position 1 and finish off with a few tweaks on the mount's Az and Alt knobs. I hope to compare how accurate this is against SharpCap Pro's polar alignment routine. I have nonetheless found the iPolar to provide decent alignment for my purposes.

The new manual contains a 'Troubleshooting' section to again help users, this gives advice when-

Troubleshooting

1.    iPolar software does not run.

·         Check whether anti-virus software is blocking the software from running.

·         Run ‘EnvironmentCheck.exe from the iOptron online support page. This will report if the computer system meets the following requirements-

64-bit architecture.

Windows 7, 8.1, 10 or 11 installed.

Necessary .NET frameworks installed (.NET 3.5 and 4.8).

ASCOM platform 6.5 or later installed.

2.    iPolar camera does not connect.

·         Check USB cable and ports on iPolar and Computer. Try different cable.

·         Confirm iPolar detected by Device Manager.

·         If the iPolar is detected but fails to connect first contact FLO over the matter for advice.

3.    Recalibrating the iPolar Camera Centre can be achieved by clicking in ‘Settings’ then click ‘Clear Camera Centre’.

4.    If the software rushes to plate solve Position 2 immediately after confirming Position 1 and does not allow confirmation of Position 2 you may find that the camera centre/RA position (red cross) is close already to the NCP (red dot) and that the software found the Camera Centre ok. If you find the subsequent polar alignment unsatisfactory the polar alignment should be repeated after first moving the mount RA slightly and clearing the Camera centre. This can happen with the GEM28 since it is placed in the right position each session.

The italics in 4 above are my own emphasis. I have so far found the polar alignment following the processquite fine for my use so have not needed to re-do an alignment

I hope this little journey into using the iPolar with the new software is of help rather than hindrance to any others also exploring these byways. Any comments for other users would be very welcome.

Cheers,
Steve

18 hours ago, Shimrod said:

new design leaves the cable handing with no support and doesn't feel as secure/ @SteveNickolls if yours is the same I wonder if that is the cause of your USB issues.

 

Hi, I'm pleaeed you now have a replacement unit but understand being now able to trial the iPolar with nights getting darker much later. 

My original iPolar arriving with the GEM28 had the USB port on the end of the unit-

and I wondered if the forces acting on the USB port and cable when the mount head was rotated helped loosen the connection.

This is how loose the cable was in the iPolar.

The replacement iPolar from FLO had a different connection point (similar to that on the other iPolar I used on my CG-5 mount. The cable now connects into the side of the iPolar.

My recent issue with connecting using v2.6.05 software has led me to download the latest iPolar manual

3339_iPolarOperationManual (1).pdf

and try out the troubleshooting section at the end of the manual. I can confirm that my laptop meets the spec for the iPolar and have downloaded and run the EnvironmentCheck.exe software.

I have yet to struggle through interpreting the manual and build up a procedure that I can follow to test everything works fine with v2.6.05. The process is different from what I have been using in the past and may well resolve the hiccups. Again lack of clear nights to perform polar alignment means I can't be definitive on what works or not.

Cheers,

Steve

Blimy Graeme the things you have to do to overcome a problem from something else. Anyway I'm glad you can use the Pole Master and not lose out on imaging this late on in the season.

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks Graeme for this, makes me wonder if it's a camera fault, compatibility issue or a software glitch. Did you buy a replacement iPolar or go for an alternative solution?

Cheers,
Steve

Hi Shimrod, I'm sorry to hear the problem continues with the iPolar. I do hope you get it resolved to your satisfaction. My interest springs from a recent problem I had with a defective iPolar/USB cable I documented in my SGL thread about my GEM28 mount. The new replacement iPolar has experienced failure to connect on two nights but worked on others with the v2.6.05 software. I appreciate iOptron have brought out new manual (in January) that contains some changed instructions for using the v2.6 software. I appologize if you are aware of this.

3339_iPolarOperationManual_v2.6.pdf

Thanks once again for your reply.

Cheers,
Steve

On 15/12/2021 at 19:33, Shimrod said:

As an update on this, FLO are going to have a look at the camera for me (and even gave me a postage paid returns label). Good Service!

Hi Shimrod, any joy with the device?

Cheers,

Steve

Thanks for this. After reading the article I realised all these past years I should have been double counting sessions where they straddled two dates! Never mind. Onwards and upwards.

Cheers,

Steve

1 hour ago, ONIKKINEN said:

Rising Cam to the rescue again?

Hmm, perhaps not enough savings on relatively modest camera such as the 533. I rather value FLO's after service more than a small saving before VAT and Import Duty.

Cheers,

Steve

19 minutes ago, scotty38 said:

so why not the same difference between the mono versions which would make it about £1300?

Aye, I've been saving up hard recently for this mono-version of the 533 model but that figure will not make me an early adopter I'm afraid.

Finger's crossed. 🤞

Cheers,
Steve

5 hours ago, nfotis said:

Any bets which company will blink first by publishing an actual price?

🙂

He, he and as long as we don't then blink at their prices. 😲

Cheers,
Steve

Expose for longer and increase the ISO to see/find your target, then frame the view and finally start your imaging run at your desired exposure settings.

Cheers,

Steve

Yesterday I laid out Ethernet cable inside the 20 mm plastic conduit and had a trial run in the evening to check the cable was working properly. Today I have some glueing of conduit joints to do and bury a length of pipework under the garden/slabs. Near to the the imaging pad I will use a waterproof electrical box to hold a short coil of a meter of cable to roll out and connect to the remore StarTech device each session.

It was a pleasure and very social to be able to sit in the Living Room controlling the imaging last night and having Stellarium, iCommander and SharpCap Pro spread across two screens. 👍 The tiny StarTech 'local' device can be seen on the desk connected to the laptop.

Cheers,
Steve

On 24/03/2022 at 16:26, Dean Hale said:

Really helpful. Thank for these posts

Hi Dean thanks for your comment and likes. 👍

Yes I'm hoping by documenting my use of the GEM28 to gain it some publicity for others considering the mount. From my experience since late October last year the GEM28 has proved very capable for what I want to use it for, that is mostly wide field work with the RedCat 51 and Samyang 135 mm lens. It's allowed me to employ the benefits of being ASCOM compliant (particularly for mount control and plate solving), is compatible with my choices of software (iCommander, Stellarium amd Sharpcap Pro) and has recently shown it accommodates Sharpcap Pro's 'dither without guiding' ability to improve the quality of the stacked imaging. The most recent addition of the StarTech 4-port USB over Ethernet kit will eventualy enable me to have the Ethernet cable fixed outdoors reducing set up time. I did try the kit out last night and it just worked fine. I can't see me building a mini-observatory mostly for cosmetic reasons but this approach has meant set up and take down time is minimised while having the needed control at distance and not being reliant on wi-fi. The GEM28 of course is flexible and permits control by either the hand controller, the in-built iStarFi wi-fi or Ethenet cable to suit owner's needs and circumstances.

The GEM28 really has a lot going for it that really deserves better recognition, I particularly like the low weight design of the mount which means set up is very quick and I am able to carry out the mount/tripod/imaging gear as one unit something I could never do with the CG-5 even when I was much younger. I was a little disappointed over the scuffed tripod legs and the original iPolar unit's failure after only a few uses but think this may have been caused by a poorly fitting non-spec USB cable supplied with the unit-FLO were brilliant replacing the iPolar which I now have secured at the top of the polar opening. Since geting the replacement iPolar and using a quality Lindy USB cable polar alignment has worked without a hitch. The overall quality of the mount is very decent and there was the nice touch of having anti-vibration pads fitted as standard, usually that's an 'extra'.

Whichever mount you do decide on in the future Dean I wish you the very best with it. 😀

Cheers,
Steve

Oh good lord.

"The company behind New York's famous Madison Square Garden (MSG) says the scheme would boost the local economy. make them a lot more money".

Second March 2022 Update

StarTech 4-Port USB over Ethernet control solution

Earlier this week I took delivery of a StarTech 4-Port USB over Ethernet system from Ballicom.co.uk to provide a means of controlling imaging on my GEM28 which when in use is located at the bottom of the garden but from the Living Room rather than the usual Kitchen basically so I can sit down in a warmer room with the laptop and make use of the main pc screen to extend software in use across two screens (Stellarium, iCommander windows and SharpCap Pro).

For a long time I have controlled imaging (Canon 700D DSLR/ASI178MC) using a 20 m active USB 2.0 cable by Lindy and after getting the GEM28 used a second such cable I had to control the mount too. The distance from the Living Room to the imaging pad stretches to around 30m and I intend to enclose the Cat6 Ethernet cable in 20 mm plastic conduit. In the future I will have the Ethernet cable ready to be connected to the StarTech 'remote' unit at the imaging pad and powered by the mains cable reel run out each night. Short USB cables will connect to the GEM28 hand controller and camera leaving two USB ports still free for possible future use. The 'local' unit gets power from the USB port on the laptop but can be augmented with a 5V 2A mains unit if required. Slowly I am reducing the set up/take down time for each session without having a permanent structure for the mount outside. I have also been able to free up a USB port on the laptop this way.

The two units are tiny each fitting easily in the palm of the hand but feel very solid and weigh 154g and 174g (local and remote units respectively). 

I had worried if using the kit to connect to the GEM's hand controller port would create COM port issues on the laptop (phantom COM ports) but the system worked flawlessly with no issues and I was able to test mount control using iCommander and Stellarium and using SharpCap Pro to take test shots in the daytime. I can commend the solution to others wanting similar control with the GEM28 and imaging.

Cheers,
Steve