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Everything posted by Aenima

  1. I mention earlier in the thread about a bahtinov i bought for dslr lenses which I spent a frustrating night trying to find a combination of settings and bright star where i could even get a pattern, let alone successful focus - it might just be me, but it seemed that having it so close to the lens and the small amount of light from the star just wasn't effective. The hartman mask i feel would be a better bet due to the shape being split then coming together when close to focus, they are also slightly easier to make at home i'd imagine... My best focus has actually come from a very distant but bright streetlight or lampost using auto-focus and then clamping or switching off auto focus for imaging. But a dark site might be lacking in well, y'know.... lights. Best of luck on it though. Regards Aenima
  2. The thing with it being 'wrong' to use infinity focus isn't so much that infinity is the wrong point to be at, but rather the infinity markings on lenses aren't always reliable enough for such a fine tuning as is needed for stars. Try using zoom/liveview on a bright star to get it as close as possible to a pinpoint. Maybe even auto-focus on a very distant lamppost might help. I f you can get something to visually look at while adjusting - try turning past the focus point (if it will go past) and pull back again and get a feel for the point where the stars are smallest and sharpest. Ive seen bahtinov masks for dslr's but mine has yet to give me anything to work with. Hope you get it sorted. Regards Aenima
  3. I had thought of that briefly but not sure how far the mirror will go before disengaging from the screws - i dont want a loose mirror in the bottom OO! The focal reducer is kind of a optional part of the set-up, and although i've ordered one (cheap at £18 + p&p) i dont have to use it. From the star shape while focusing it looked as though there wasn't too much in it. The diffraction spikes were visible after just a white circle with the black center (secondary mirror shadow)). So at least there's hope - appreciate the replies btw thnx Regards Aenima
  4. That might be a good plan, the focuser has about 2.5 inches tube for the eyepiece to fit in, and this unscrews to attach t-rings etc. but if it can be unscrewed then maybe a new smaller tube can be put in its place? When i got rid of my 130p i noticed the same part on that focuser was less than half the size of the 200p's tube, so maybe a spare from another SW focuser will be buyable from somewhere? There is still the problem of the filter wheel but i'm used to not always doing things the simple way, and could change by hand removing the camera each time and refocusing - but that kind of time wasting is not the best way to do it in uk weather. Thanks merlin, i'll look around for a 130p focuser tube. Regards Aenima
  5. Happy 'winter' to all stargazers on SGL :)

    1. emadmoussa


      Best time of the year for astronomy...

    2. WaveSoarer


      Let's hope that we'll get decent clear skies.

    3. Aenima


      Amen to that :)

    4. Show next comments  15 more
  6. BTW I meant sorry i'm late in msg-ing not tht your progress was late - i just read it back and couldv'e worded it better OO! but glad to see your still at it. I got hold of a mono chip planetary cam and hope to try rgb imaging soon, gotta iron out some kinks but looking forward to learning something. The motor focuser sounds like a great idea as its hard to focus when you keep nudging the scope to do so. At long f/lengths the vibes really mess up the image. Winter is a good season for stargazing and hopefully the ison comet will give us all something to point our scopes at. All the best with the imaging etc. to all on this thread (and rest of SGL). Regards Aenima
  7. AW gutted! Are there any other solutions to this problem? other than moving the mirror or cutting away the top of the focuser? I did get focus by taking the nosepiece off and using the stubby thread bit to slot into the ep hole and thumbscrew it in place, but i'm gonna be stuck when it comes to the filters and filter wheel! This might just have to be a planetary imager with mandatory barlow.... Any one got ideas on this issue pls? >,< Regards
  8. Very nice image, and way better than the attempts I made with my 130p - one to be chuffed with You have a gallery to put it in? Regards Aenima ps. i know its a bit late, but also good to see the improvement
  9. I'm trying to use a CCD camera for long exposure and have trouble with the point of focus being very close in to the secondary mirror making it nearly run out of inward travel as it stops just short of the hard stop against the focuser edge. As i'm using a barlow for planetary i dont get the inward travel issue there, but without the barlow it needs to go much farther in, i'm thinking that a focal reducer might work instead, but does it change the point of focus like a barlow or go the other way so as to need to go closer still to the focuser? I'm ordering a .5x reducer to try, and at the same time hoping to improve on the already larger sensor's fov (1/3") compared to the webcam's . Does anyone know if they generally move the point of focus either way? Regards Aenima _________________ Aenima
  10. rain

    1. Qualia
    2. Matt2011


      Too much rain, Want to be able to get out and observe!

    3. Aenima


      Actually got rained on twice, a gap appeared in clouds and i set up and soon as i had aligned it rained on everything :( i was stupid enough to do it again later the same night with similar results - doh!

  11. Yeah, I was looking through this too - totally forgot my settings were still following it to be honest. 30Min exposures are absolutely amazing for this set-up, although it's doubtful that everyone actually spends the time and effort to thoroughly Drift-align, I know I dont. I have found the 200p/eq5 combo a lot of work, and would advise anyone with the money spare to get the HEQ5 or for the flush of funds the NEQ6 due to the advantage they will give to those trying to take images with any reliability. Having said that I have surprised myself with some of the results i've manged to wrangle from my 200p/eq5 set-up. Every image in my gallery and elsewhere was done using this combination unguided. Guiding does help but try to get the basics first - polar alignment can be hit n miss with the stock polar scopes so using drift or software enhanced alignment helps, and having good balance and well maintained mount, luck changes night to night so instead of going straight to 1min exposures try 20sec and check star shapes, then - if good - up it to 30secs and so - on - you might get lucky Hope this helps folks in the future who want the most from the 200p/EQ5 or would prefer the easier but more expensive route. (however, if you end up having to upgrade over and over coz you bought the lesser kit first then it may not be the most expensive route to go for the right set-up the 1st time. I still enjoy using my eq5 and can happily learn on this equipment for years while waiting for the day when i can finally upgrade to a decent astrophotography rig) Regards Aenima
  12. Yes, with a 2x barlow and t-adapter you can take single shots of lunar features - the problem with connecting directly to the focuser for prime focuse images is the 130p hasn't got enough Inward travel on the focuser, so using a barlow will bring the point of focus out a little. On mine even with the barlow the point of focus was VERY close to stopping dead against the edge of the focuser tube, this was the stock skywatcher barlow, however, maybe this will be enough (providing the scope has the 2" focuser, the older models don't). best of luck with it. regards Aenima
  13. Dave, You use the mask to get the star light looking like an X with a line that is exactly in the middle, then remove the mask to take an image - the mask just helps you get the right focus without having to rely on the stars being your only reference point. Once you get that -X- shape, make sure the focuser stays there (rack n pinion focusers often lock using a thumb screw but this can shift the focus slightly so do a last check with mask on) then just remove the bahtinov and start imaging - knowing your in focus - or observing the object of interest. hth regards Aenima
  14. I would say if you want to run a few different 'auto' pieces of equipment, it might help to have a good power source (a 12v powertank by skywatcher is an option but there are better deals out there regarding batteries for telescope use) or if your close to home a 4-way power adapter out the window is a good way to have multiple devices powered for the night.. An auto-focuser is another bit of kit that simply moves the focuser in and out via a motor so you wont need to nudge the scope doing it by hand, the better ones are expensive but will be supported by many astro-software programs HTH Regards Aenima .
  15. Aenima

    Jupiter mono

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    Mono chip - lu070m

    © Aenima

  16. Aenima

    jupiter mono

    From the album: 2013/2014 planetary

    Trying out a monochrome chip, no filters as yet but it works :)

    © Aenima

  17. It's simply a link I thought would be of interest to those wanting A, help to use their kit, and B, learn about astronomy. I have no reason to question the source as I like the guy anyway and i can see it's clearly legit I do apologise for leaving the post a bit vague, I should've been a little clearer as to who the OAS are, I hope the above link will go some way toward answering that. Regards Aenima
  18. I really like PhD for its ease of use, even though a standalone autoguider is a better solution for reducing amount of kit to transport and set up. But as a noob that tried guiding on a budget and lacking a synguider (probably worth a look in your scenario) it was actually a lot more painless than i'd imagined it to be and worked quite well even on my finderscope webcam DIY job, the 'finderguider' I was getting 300sec exposures from a heavy reflector on a EQ5. Either way, i have heard good things about the synguider more than bad and wouldn't mind getting one myself. Regards Aenima
  19. Sorry, yeah its the Online Astronomy Society (i linked the official page on facebook and there are links there to several other aspects of the same astro society nearly 5000 members). They do distance learning courses for astronomy and related subjects. https://www.facebook.com/groups/OASoc/ Hope this helps http://www.onlineastronomycourses.co.uk/about
  20. http://www.onlineastronomycourses.co.uk/dvd A link to a well regarded source of astronomy stuff, there are courses for those wanting to study astro related subjects, and this DVD with useful info on how to choose, use and maintain your equipment, a course in beginner astronomy as well as the basics of imaging the planets and the sun. I like the advice on cleaning optics, it can be scary getting into the workings of a scope with a view to cleaning the important bits HTH Regards Aenima
  21. nice halloween look

  22. Aenima

    WHIRLPOOL Galaxy

    Yeah, I think the smaller galaxy even has a name of its own in the NGC list. :)
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