johninderby
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Posts posted by johninderby
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I needed some thinners to clean off a bit of residue but didn’t leave any mark behind. 🙂
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Ordered mine from books2anywhere part of Albiris./AbeBooks.
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3 minutes ago, TerryMcK said:
If you are using Velcro to mount anything to your scope/mount/tripod try to get this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M7P18HP as other lesser versions do have a tendency to come unstuck in time (not very long).
I’ve used that particular one myself. Takes pliers to peel it off whatever it’s been stuck to if you ever want to remove it. 👍🏻
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4 minutes ago, Alan White said:
Looking forward to my set arriving,
I think I purchased my set a day after yourself John, so fingers crossed they arrive soon.Ordered mine on the 8th and they said it would arrive on the 18th which it did. Delivered by Elite couriers which I’ve not heard of before.
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And a bit of light reading. 😀
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Most astro gear uses a few standard threads. Mostly metric and occasionaly imperial. Also getting to know what the diameter is of the common metric and imperial threads. There are charts that give the specs which can help and also thread gauges.
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7 minutes ago, JeremyS said:
I have to ask, John. You always seem to be ordering replacement screws for all sort of things. And they all seem to be the right size, thread etc. In spite of so many different standards and specs
How do you know what to order? Do you look it up or do actually measure the relevant parameters of the screw/bolt you are replacing?
That’s what digital calipers are for. 🙂
M4 thread.
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One thing I find really usefull in managing cables is a roll of velcro cable tie instead of pre-made cable ties. You can make up any length of tie needed.👍🏻
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Instruments pf Medievel torture? OK just thumscrews to replace the small ones on scope. much easier to use.😁
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Once restored a Meade SNT10 that had been in a fire and the owner had sold it to me very cheaply as scrap that I might be able to salvage a few parts from.Tube was blackened in places and the miiror was plain black with soot. Had to wash the primary mirror three times in warm soapy water before I could even see the mirror’s surface. and surprisingly once I’d finished cleaning it the mirror was good as new. Corrector also took a lot of cleaning. The Baader Steeltrack focuser was full of soot and scorched and had to be completely dissasembled and cleaned but also came up like new and used on another scope. SW focuser replacement Covered the tube in silver vinyl and it was a working though very heavy OTA.
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I’d try using a smartphone first and seeing what results you can get before buying a dedicated camera. You might decide it's worth getting a better camera.
This cheap smartphone holder works well and is the one used to take these single frame shots.
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Rubber strap wrenches like these are ideal for getting things apart. You don’t want big bulky oil wrench ones but smaller ones.
Also have hear using a hair dryer on the Clicklock can also help break it free.
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The is a WO 2” SCT extender that may have come with the scope so easy to think you can fit that and use a push fit diagonal..
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It needs a 2” SCT diagonal. Apparantly won’ focus with a regular push fit diagonal.
https://williamoptics.com/download/support/zenithstar66sd_A4.pdf
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Nice one 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Pity about the weather forecast.🙁
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One thing to keep in mind when star testing you need good seeing for it to give meaningfull results.
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Try asking this member who has or had one.
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Bit of info on the mount.
The Orion SkyView Pro mount:
This robust mount for serious amateur astronomers can support OTAs of up to 9kg. It sets a new standard in precision and is also excellent value for money. With a total weight (including counterweights) of 15 kg, the mount remains portable but at the same time it is also very sturdy.
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Have read reports of others having the problem of weak tape. No big deal though as some silicone sealer will glue it on properly if it does fall off.
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First thing is get a camera app like Open Camera or Camera FV5 Pro which will give you proper control of your smartphones camera. FV5 gives you more options than Open Camera but costs a few £.
Yes a proper astro camera with a laptop to capture images will be far better but obviously more expensive and you’ll need a barlow and a focal reducer.
A single frame image of the moon taken with smartphone and Open Camera using an f/10 refractor.
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I don’t think the foam tape is as good as it used to be.Seemed to be a lot stickier years ago. The new ones all seem to fall off..
Can’t buy those adapters over here. No one sells them and cost of shipping from US dealers can be pretty high nowadays. For example the Synta to ES finder adpter is $42.00 to the UK plus duties and taxes.
Thingerse has a file to 3D print a QF to Synta adapter.
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This is good guide to collimation.
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The rigel finder comes with a mounting plate that can be stuck down with the provided foam tape but I find it often falls off. You can stick the mounting plate down with silicone sealer for a more secure mounting. There is a screw hole in the plate so it can also be bolted down.
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When I clean a really dirty mirror I soak it in soapy water then rinse off with plain water and dab dry with a cotton balls then clean with Baader Optical Wonder fluid using a brand new cloth. Leaves a spotless mirror.
Only time I would use deionised water is if cleaning a plain aluminised mirror. Mirrors from Skywatcher etc. do have protective coatings.
Also when tightening the mirror clips I tighten them until they just contact the mirror then back off about an 1/8 of a turn.
Cable management
in Getting Started With Imaging
Posted
USB dew heating bands are available but just for cameras or small scopes.
https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p10626_Vixen-USB-Dew-Heater-Band-for-camera-lenses-and-small-telescopes.html