TiffsAndAstro

yeah that sounds nice but atm i leave my astromac plugged in next to telescope then access that from my desktop inside.

Will test this on my Mac now ty

So if my scope pc has win pro I can connect to it from my win10home desktop?

It was hidden enough for me to not find it easily. I have win10home activated on my desktop but win10pro (I think) inactivated via bootcamp on my astromac. I'm only asking cos I was thinking how do I log into (a future scope pc) after bootup if no keyboard/mouse/monitor ....

My mount is one of the smaller but juicier types I can probably save 2kg with shorter usb cables thoigh

Crd doesn't work on login screen and I need windows pro for win remote desktop ;(

Ty for this having a read now. I'm not too bothered about startup scripts because I only run synscan then Nina and let it run phd2.

Yeah only problem is some are relatively heavy. The latest nucs mele weigh 260g or 500g. Flo even have a nuc adapter plate

yeah i considered something like this, but my wifi is ok enough. just not good.

gonna try this out with my laptop. logging into it annoys me anyway

Anyone using a nuc or mele, can you set it to to use no login and boot to its desktop, no login screen? I don't think chrome remote desktop works until after logging into windows. Seems there is via a local account and some other stuff

Might be something I should get, it's pretty reasonably priced. Not sure what the cable ties are for?

Like the space shuttle? Well I just disconnected and quit Nina. Going to do the darks etc in a bit. No clear skies I fear ALso offset max is 100. Dropped mine to 10 I think to get one pixel at around 60adu. But will recheck when it's darker cos maybe light leak OK I'm using offset 5 and get 1 pixel low 40s. Next clear skies I can be ready to take a light.

I don't think so. I think svbony would be singing about it. I do have a heater option in Nina underneath cooling temp controls though

Might as well do them now I guess. Why -10c btw? It see lots of graphs of read noise v temp which really almost negates cooling so I was thinking it must be to reduce thermal noise but hard to find graphs for that. I would go +1c to avoid frosting but thermal noise must be a big thing?

The camera looks and feels very nice, but I don't have a big sample size to compare the anodised dark grey looks more serious than the nicer coloured versions

It's not quite as bad as it looks....but hopefully the spaghetti will improve when I get a nuc or mele quieter pc where the usb hub currently is. Can confirm camera works with just the immensely thick and long nice feeling usb c/printer cable. I need a shorter one, uncooled though. It's warm out but even so using 65% max power to hold -5c. Not great, but ok, I think. Just need a hole in the cloud. Taking some darks and biases atm and about to follow Cuiv's offset video....

Connect all my new camera stuff up fingers crossed it's all gone suspiciously smoothly. Sharing mount power supply. Assuming filter drawer is same length as the bigger spacer. Added a shim to account for filter. Cooling down to -5 c as I type this Back focus I hope is 55mm plus shim for filter. Probably clouds tonight though

Yeah first test maybe not pano and m31. Too much choice. Assuming I even get it working

Nothing more than a quick glance. And it wouldn't surprise me it it's far from perfect. I'll use it hopefully with new camera in two panel test on m31. See how it goes. M31 is about the only target I really want to mosaic. Plenty others fit square fov nice enough. ***** did a platesolve and it didn't flag anything up. hardly a thorough test though https://nova.astrometry.net/status/10091723

microsoft ice seems nice. this is 3 panels combined linear data, just stacked using sirils with background extraction option. left is 20 mins center is 57 mins and right is 30 mins total, very approximate. can't see any obvious seams and its ok result for the total exposure time etc.

Hopefully someone can scan through this highlight any silly mistakes or ideas. 1 get camera connected to laptop directly. Then into the usb hub in place of my dslr. 2 use filter drawer instead of 21mm tube, so just 16mm and maybe a 0.3mm shim if I have one depending on filter thickness. 3 screw it on flattener. 4 test if my 12v 5amp mount power supply can run the mount and via a splitter cable and ext lead to the camera. 5 take test mosaics of m31 and party

I'm not complaining but, it's like buses, wait ages then 4 turn up at once. Two clear nights on the run lol inspite of apps and UK weather. New camera, power cable splitter things, failing at m31 then saving it then realising I hadn't but after trying Microsoft ice realised mosaics are easy . I reserve the right to completely change this opinion in a day or two. No NB filter yet. Might go for the svbony one stuart1971 reviewed, but want some time broadband but with some ir. Also I want to do He (three I think) because it's mad some people are doing it. Filter cost/availability/stupid idea aside:)

Also (sorry) the stuff I got "free" is as follows: tsirt baseball cap, leather? Note book, 1-5x Barlow (I think) UV/it cut 1.25" filter (who knew they are tiny) filter drawer two trays, 3amp power supply. Let's hope the camera is as other manufacturers. It looks very very nice, solid minimalistic. Sadly not brightly coloured so won't fit my paint scheme.

Yeah thanks for that. If something is too good to be true its probably for a reason Not able to plug camera into test for a couple of hours, though I did read there is -10% less dead pixels for each piece of manufacturer (ahem) branded item of clothing worn when testing for the first time. worked that way for my Ferraris