Mark2022

You know, Peter?I have been thinking about that recently. Thanks for the reminder and confirmation of their usefulness.

ISO and Exposure settings, John? The longest exp setting I can get is 1/30th with video. Then again, I believe we don't want long exposures anyhow BUT, dropping exp time makes the planet even dimmer so then, I suppose, it's upping the ISO? However, that then introduces more noise so.... ?

Reading this topic with interest since I was out two mights ago with my Meade LX10 8 inch. As you probably know, it's not a goto but the RA and Dec motors work and I set up with very rough polar alignment just to keep the planet in the FOV as long as possible. However, due to juggling between low (26mm) and high power (9.7mm) eyepieces, barlows (Meade telenegative 2x and Neewer 3x) to locate the planet in FOV then swap out with the camera (a Nikon D5500), then finding I can't see it because the focus has changed and, by the time I work out where the focus is on the camera, the planet's out of the FOV again so it's redo time, it becomes a real struggle. Then you forget you're at ISO 25600 to find the planet on your camera screen and you're video is WAY too overexposed so, again, turn down the ISO (to about 400) and start again. You can't fill that DSLR screen or anywhere near it. You've changed from 1080p to 640 and wonder if that is going to help or make worse. You're pressing buttons on the NESW hand controller for the mount while you're fiddling around with camera and intervalometer settings (granted the intervalometer in this case is just press to play). You wonder if that SVBony SV305 camera (equivalent to a ZWO 290) is going to do the job you're looking for once you get a windows laptop to plug it into and use something like Sharpcap however, you're thinking "it's hard enough keeping or finding the planet on an APS-C DSLR chip, what will it be like trying to get it onto a SV305 chip about 1/3rd the size (or less). You have a Skywatcher goto mount (EQ5) but you've reserved it for a couple of other scopes (ST120 & SV503 70ED) and intend to use it for EAA once you have the observatory built (working on at the moment) but you've replaced the main board of the LX10 at cost to get it operating and it's operating well and, like a car for some people, you're 'emotionally attached' to that fork mount you always pined for since a lad and have no intentions of deforking. So the 8 inch will never be used for long exposure deep sky work but simply the odd night of visual and this "nightmare" of trying to capture some real detail on these damned elusive little dots called planets. No interest in Venus, Mercury, Neptune and Uranus (nothing to see in my opinion) but only Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. So here are the two photos I took of Jupiter and Saturn the other night. Happy to capture anything at all but looking to, eventually, achieve what BGazing has above. How? I have no idea as yet. Perhaps I'll get closer with the SV305. I can't even remember the optical train for these photos. Whether I used the 9.7mm eyepiece projection (I did try at some point thru the night) or whether just at prime focus with either the 2x or 3x barlow. I should keep notes. If you heard the audio on the video captured, you'd understand! 🙂 Any and all additional advice, appreciated.

I defend their policy too. Just making a point about things in general these days. God, if SGL were a free for all re topics, it would soon be a mess and not worth visiting. A bit of tongue in cheek never harmed anyone, however. 😁

I am what most would term a full blown "Conspiracy theorist" and find this thread fascinating but, unfortunately, due to 'rules' and the wish not to offend anyone, I must, essentially, shut up.

Be sure. Maintain that scepticism.

Taken yesterday evening 7/8/23 into early this morning 8/8/23. Camera: Nikon D5500 DSLR, ISO 800, 59 subs @ 40 seconds each. Mount: Skywatcher EQ5 Pro (No guiding) Scope: SVBony SV503 70ED with 0.8x flattener Stacked in Siril with some pre-processing Final processing in Affinity.

Louis, was the $10 price just a lucky one off or are they readily available in the States at that price? Can't find them in the UK and to get from the US costs about £40 - 50.

FLO never seem to have them in stock. I'll check again. However, to repeat my previous question since I just mentioned the longpass - Isn't it possible with a OSC and in Sharpcap, to balance out the effect of the change of hue by any of these filters using white balance?

Isn't it possible to adjust white balance to balance out the yellow hue caused by the 495 longpass?

Also, Franklin, it will be OSC not mono.

Actually, I wasn't thinking when I first posted. I won't need a 2 inch because I won't be using the diagonal for EAA. A 1.25 inch would do attached to the screw thread of the camera. Do these filters come in 1.25 inch?

Sounds good, I'll have a look. Thanks.

Have you tried both yourself?

I noticed nobody has mentioned the Baader 495 longpass filter in this thread. I've been reading a lot about this filter and it all sounds good (except trying to find one and at a decent price). So many are saying that while it imparts just a shade of yellow - but apparently not too strong - it completely eliminates CA. Some have put it ahead of the Contrast Booster in fact. One of my scopes is the StarTravel 120 and it's that one I'm thinking of using the most for EAA when I get my entire setup up and running. I'd love to try out both, the CB and the 495 LP before deciding which I'd prefer. I'd want the 2 inch version to be 'always on' my 2 inch diagonal. Do you think someone like FLO would allow the buying of both and returning the one I didn't prefer? My bank account really doesn't like me.

I feel you. However, my philosophy since investing a ton into this hobby is wrapped up in knowing how bad we have it here in the UK (Scotland even worse than you lucky people down south) but I always recognised it would be like this and simply take the view that I've spent money I could afford to spend while knowing the kit will be relatively rarely used. However, I know I have it sitting waiting when the weather (and I) am in the mood. I think many watch too many American (and other) based videos where the skies are always clear (or seem to be) and we get frustrated because we feel we have to be viewing or imaging at least once or twice a week and producing something. It's the "instagram" effect again, I think. "Everyone else is having a great time". Just reorientate your mind on it and say "It's there when the 'stars align' and that's all i need". There's always next week/month/year. I've also noticed one thing about "Clearoutside". It's not got a good track record for prediction in my view. Neither, by the way, do "Climate Scientists"!

The thing is John, I would really like to have the ability to slip whichever eyepiece I wish to use into an adaptor. I have a Meade 9mm and 15mm plossl as well as 20, 25/6, 32 and 40 and even the 4mm, however only the 4, 9, 15 and 20 will fit the eyepiece adaptor I already have. I bought the Altair LER 5mm for the significantly increased eye relief at high power and I also thought this would provide a far brighter image on the camera. I have yet to find out.

Well that's odd because when I type the same in, nothing comes up except garbage totally unrelated. Anyhow, I've found what I'm looking for BUT at a cost. It is a Bresser and accommodates up to 55mm body diameters. £55 though. So for anyone looking for similar, here it is... https://www.bristolcameras.co.uk/product/bresser-variable-camera-adapter-1-25-inch-4940130/

Yesterday, all of a sudden, AliExpress seemed to change its page format and I can log in. However, trying to find stuff is difficult. You type into search "Eyepiece extension" or variations thereof and you get all sorts of garbage.

I know. I know this stuff but sometimes I just forget it and I'm being slow. When your mind gets filled up with stuff it's like a computer's memory getting full. The computer slows down. 🙂

Yeah, I wanted to give minimal info because I wanted to hear people's reasoning for themselves and not necessarily for me. Yes, the frac v newt thing. LOL Oh and I take the weather into account nearly every blooming day! But when it's good, it's good and I live in a bortle 3/4 on the border. It's not too bad.

Makes sense! 🙂 I live in a 3 story 'townhouse' type of thing but with a terrace I can walk out to from a door on the 1st floor. It's actually the roof of my neighbour's carport (not exactly a carport but he drives under it to get to his house.) The construction belongs to me and is 5 x 5m. Spans a wall of my house and another neighbour's. So, in fact, I have zero view of the west/south west and zero view of the east/north east. I can only see the north/west/south west from about 30 deg and up and out to the east/south east and south to just past the meridian from about 20 deg and up (all due to buildings). Of course, I can also point toward zenith (I'm at 54deg latitude). Just laid 5x5m artificial grass and presently building a small obsy/shed about 1.7m x 1.7m and 1.8m to roof apex. Trying to copy a design by a guy on here where the roof is split into 2 sections. "Skipper Billy" (sorry I forget his actual name for now).

Who voted for the 130PDS? And what's you logic for that? I'd be interested to know.

The 200P is a 'Black Diamond' version. It would appear the 200P/HEQ5 is winning this poll outright so far. I thought the 130PDS/eq5 would get a few votes too somehow, given how well thought of it is.

Well, I do have an SVBony SV305 camera but have never used it yet and I know it isn't 'top drawer' by any means but I got it for a song. I really don't wish to buy into the dedicated astro cameras. Just too pricey. Also, although imaging is my interest, it's only because I recognise that eye to eyepiece, you see very very little and EAA appeals to me more while being nice and cozy inside.