Gina

The router is NOT showing the Duet in the Client list

Sent the WiFi codes and got responses except that it hasn't sent the IP address. Guess I can find it from my router though, if the Duet WiFi is working.

RH successfully connected to Duet

It's alright - found the problem - hadn't extracted the files from the ZIP.

Yes, I'm there and have downloaded the files - they're in > Gina > Downloads > DuetDriverFiles. BUT from Update Driver that directory is not showing in > Gina > Downloads

Looked in device mangler and it says it needs driver - so that answers my question - does recognise Duet

Doesn't want to connect in RH. I often have this problem with Mega/RAMPS etc with my Titan. Does it need a windows driver needed? Says "COM2 doesn't exist" or something.

Tried Arduino IDE as you suggested and the lights flashed for a few seconds then wet out. No reply from M115 @ 9600 baud - think I'll use Repetier Host from Win 7 laptop.

Does that include uploading the .g files? I've downloaded the set for my Mini printer set up with the Configuration Tool for my printer (as near as I can - with a guess or two).

Ordered a set of five NEMA 17s from Amazon with Prime delivery tomorrow - £39. OK so they're far more powerful than needed but the size of the market for these makes them relatively cheap. I really want a calendar ASAP and this seems the quickest route

Thanks Dave, I'll try that

So it behaves like an Arduino then? What type of board did you set the the Arduino IDE? And any other info most welcome

This is silly!! I'm at it again, going against what I said earlier about not going for a mechanical perpetual calendar but using the facility already built in to the RTC chip. Drums driven be a stepper motor each is simplest mechanically and pretty certain to work. I have several spare control units from 3D printers that I could use one of. These are Arduino Mega 2560 plus RAMPS shield containing up to 5 stepper driver motors plus other stuff. That would easily fulfill the stepper motor driver needs and would just need an RTC module added. The I just need to find the cheapest source of stepper motors.

Extruder E3D Titan :- hobbed pulley measures 7.8mm diameter, gear ratio 3:1, motor 0.9°/step (400 steps/rev). For 16x microstepping, micro-steps per mm = 16 x 400 / (Pi x d). With the 3:1 gear ratio this gives micro-steps per mm = 16x400x3 / (Pix7.8) = 783.53.

The wiki seems to give instructions for Windows only - can the Duet be set up from Linux, does anyone know? I do have one Windows machine left - a laptop running Win 7 so I can use that if necessary for setting up.

Drums for XY are 15.83mm diameter and the Z is 10mm. Adding the thickness of the cord gives 16.31 and 10.48. The Z drive gear ratio is 33:8 so the drum diameter is effectively 10.48x8/33 = 2.54. Motors are 200 step per revolution and cord movement is Pi x d so steps per mm will be 200 / (Pi x d) but that's whole steps so for 16x microstepping, micro-steps per mm = 16 x 200 / (Pi x d) = 3200 / (Pi x d) or 1018.6 / d. So micro-steps/mm for XY = 1018.6 / 16.31 = 62.45 and micro-steps/mm for Z = 1018.6 / 2.54 = 401.02.

No, I meant my present heat pad which is 12v. The mains one is something I'm thinking of getting (on a slow boat fro China). I'm afraid I didn't make myself clear.

The print bed heater is a silicone pad of 200mm square and 220W meaning current of 18.33A and I use a relay to control it since that is too much current for the RAMPS. It's also too much for the Duet - just.

Looks like most things can be set up using the RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool which I've gone partly through. I've got to the XYZ calibration stage so need to take some measurements as my printer is not using timing belts. Not a problem - XY is based on drum size and Z axis on gear ratio as well. Looks like setting up the Duet should be easier than with Marlin. Initially it looked complicated (like Marlin is) but the online tool seems to do it all for you. The more I deal with this board the more I like it Looks like a lot of good work has gone into developing the Duet

Two Daves and a Gina Have Duet WiFi, unpacked it, studied it very closely, studied the wiki very closely, but not yet installed it. I want to be absolutely sure I know what I'm doing.

This looks good for controlling my mains voltage 1200W bed heater :- GEREE 24V-380V 40A 250V SSR-40 DA Solid State Relay Module 3-32V DC To AC

I've been reading up about the Duet WiFi and its connections compared with the RAMPS. The stepper motor connections look the same but the endstops are different. The Z probe is a special case but I understand that (Schottky diode instead of resistor network for NPN inductive probe). The other connections seem quite straightforward. I can see no reason why I shouldn't go straight to the Duet for my Mini printer as the Marlin code for the Mega/RAMPS/LCD control unit will be different from the Pilot printer it's coming from. The motion was separate XYZ whereas the Mini is CoreXY and all the calibrations will be different. Making up different connectors for RAMPS and messing with Marlin config.h seems a waste of time and effort. Does this sound sensible or have I missed something?

I find ABS pops off the glass plate when the bed temperature gets down to 80°C.

I shan't be keeping all the parts I'm using on my Mini printer but I'm expecting to use the motors on my Giant printer since they're a bit bigger than other NEMA 17s I have. I have also scrapped several imaging rigs I've made in upgrading so scrapping previous items that have had hours of hard work put into them is not really new. As for 3D printers, if I find my Giant printer does all that my Titan does and just as well, the Titan could go.

Started stripping down my Pilot printer for parts. Undoing the hard work I put into that brought a bit of a lump to my throat but it has to be. It's being replaced with what should be a far better printer and I can't keep too many 3D printers. I shall be using the print bed glass plate and bed heater plus the Arduino Mega + RAMPS + LCD control unit initially but I have a Duet Wi-Fi control board that I intend to use in the final construction. This new control board provides a number of improvements including smoother running, more precision, faster printing and much easier control (and remote) from a web browser. I might change the bed heater for one with nearly twice the power and hence faster heating. viz. 20 X 20cm,400W@240V,w/3M PSA & Thermistor,Silicone Heater Pad,3D Printer HeatBed. This also saves on a high power PSU.