dweller25

That all sounds normal to me.

As you have found, it is better to use the 26mm for deep sky objects as they are large and diffuse.

The Moon and and planets will allow higher magnifications as they are brighter.

Enjoy your telescope.

Tak quick release bracket....Standard Skywatcher finder shoe with feet filed off and small semi circle filed in to fit the Tak bracket.

Standard Skywatcher finder and holder

Here's what I did.....

I would also suggest an 8” Dobsonian. 

They cool quickly are easy to set up and give great views of the planets, Moon and deepsky objects too.

They are also the best value for money telescope you can buy.

First Light Optics are a good supplier.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-200p-dobsonian.html

Also download Stellarium for your computer - a very good planetarium program - and it’s free

36 minutes ago, Seanasaurus said:

Thanks for all this great advice!

Next clear night I will try out your suggestions!

Are there any good or recommended neutral filters, dwdeller25? I'm a bit new to the whole filter game. Side thought, would a simple Moon filter suffice?

Thanks again

This is what I used in my 10” but also consider a variable polarizer as it’s more flexible.

5 hours ago, Seanasaurus said:

Thanks to everyone, 

NGC1502, it isn't my image. I just got the first image of Jupiter I found on the web and overlaid a fuzz over it to replicate what I am seeing. Usually on a good night I can just make out the main bands. If I was seeing that level of resolution, I would be over the Moon!

Riochet and Alan Potts, if it is dew forming on the mirror or eyepiece, how can I remove/prevent it? My scope is a 12" dob, I didn't think dobs were as likely to get dew issues compared to other scopes, like SCT. 

 

Thanks guys

Hello Sean and welcome to SGL.

Jupiter is very high in Oz at the moment so you should be seeing a lot of detail on Jupiter.

You say you can just make out the main bands so it sounds like something needs action.

As a first step you have to fully cool and then collimate your scope 👍

Once that is done you should see a significant improvement in the planetary views.

However Jupiter is very bright in a 12” so you may like to invest in a neutral density filter to dim the image a little - that should help to increase  contrast and help to see more detail. 

2 hours ago, quaoar said:

Taken by iPhone in my light polluted suburban backyard 40 mins ago 😀

 

Wow 👍

That’s a very good looking watch with a great story behind it 👍👍

Hello Steena and welcome to SGL.

An 8” F/6 is a very good choice 👍

On 03/09/2019 at 05:59, okm said:

This is an old topic, but I did want to correct this in case others are reading as well.  46mm obstruction for the Mak is not 38% - you need to look at the obstructed area, not the diameter.  The obstruction is about 1662 mm^2, resulting in the unobstructed area being about 9645 mm^2.  That's equivalent to about a 111 mm aperture.  So the Mak should still have a more light coming through the lens.  It's still more complicated than that because there is some loss from the primary and secondary mirrors.

The data I gave is correct - you are confusing contrast levels with light throughput which are two different factors.

So we are both right 🙂

Hello Jessica and welcome to SGL.

Helen has given you some really good guidance and FirstLightOptics are very reputable.

With this scope......

You will be able to see the Great Red Spot on Jupiter - and it's moons.

You will be able to see Saturn and it's rings.

You will be amazed when you point it at the Moon.

When winter comes you will be able to see the Orion nebula and the Andromeda Galaxy.

You have come to the right place for info.

Perhaps you might like to download Stellarium - planetarium software for your computer - it's free and good 😀

https://stellarium.org/

3 minutes ago, Rob Sellent said:

That's a lovely looking frac, Starlight. Be nice to hear how you get along with the Moon, planets and doubles with the f16 🙂

In my small 76mm, Saturn, its ring and perhaps a moon or two is easy game but I really struggle to see the Cassini Division and when I say struggle, I probably want to say I've found it nearly impossible. Of the age of scopes, within reason, I'm not convinced it really matters. If the optics are good and are kept in good condition, fracs should last a life time. My Vixen is over 25 years old and is probably still one of the nicest 4" you'll ever find. The 76mm is probably over 15 years old and although I feel its optics are dated, it is still a gorgeous scope .

Probably closer to 40 years old and still looking great 😀

Hello Les,

Nice scope.

Both Jupiter and Saturn can be seen in the southern sky at dusk by eye.

Your scope will see the great red spot, moons of Jupiter and the rings of Saturn too.

Keep the power to around x100 (12mm eyepiece) 👍

27 minutes ago, andrew s said:

Are you left eye dominat? If not it's on the wrong side 🤔

Regards Andrew 

You don’t get a choice - that’s how Tak wants it 😱

unless you rotate the entire scope but then the focus wheels would be in a peculiar angle.

19 minutes ago, Tubby Bear said:

Really.......??

Not in my experience.

Or mine....

I found a 150mm Mak gave visual results close to a 102mm APO

@bluesilver

For comparison - I have a 180mm Russian Intes Micro Maksutov that visually slightly out performs my Japanese 128mm APO.

BUT the Mak has cooling vents at the front and a cooling fan at the back to remove warm air from the entire system and it also clears the  warm boundary layer off the surface of the primary mirror - absolutely essential if you want to get the best out of a Maksutov design without waiting for hours for it to cool.

If you can find an Intes Micro Mak then it would be worth considering as once cooled they are very sharp - although they are expensive.

However - as others have said try an off axis mask made from cardboard on your Newtonian and judge the results.

Congratulations 👍👍👍

Very nice scope 👍

On 28/08/2019 at 10:58, Star Struck said:

The white Vixen dovetail can be seen in the attached photos. It is slightly wider that the Vixen dovetails supplied by ADM et al, which means it does not fit in the standard ADM or Altair saddles but does fit in the traditional Vixen saddle with the big set screw.

I believe it is still available if you search around.

Another alternative is to use the Tak Vixen dovetail (picture included) but that has the opposite problem. It is much narrower that the ADM dovetails and falls out of their saddles. However, it does fit in the traditional Vixen saddle with the big set screw.

Tony

 

 

Thank you 👍👍

Another thought - have you used the end cap to cap something else off - a diagonal, Barlow or 2” to 1.25” reducer for example ?

@A McEwan - I have this that I can let you have to make your Takahashi experience complete again...

Price is £2500 😁

This may work .....

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/takahashi-telescope-accessories/takahashi-tkp71423-dove-tail-male-for-mewlon-210.html

If you can retrace your steps from where you last saw it to when you used it after that you may get lucky.

Is it the metal end cap with the Takahashi logo ?

Excellent 👍👍

I’m sure it will turn up 👍

Have you checked outside ??