Settings for nikon D3200 and telescope

[ThePounddollar]

So I've ordered a T-Ring for my camera and its on its way. Now I'd like to know what settings I should be using, ready for use when it arrives. Will I still need a large aperture (normally I use f/5.6) and what setting should I use for the ISO. I'm guessing I still need a 30 second exposure.

I'll be sure to post my first image using this method. I still have other images just using my phone from when I first got my telescope.

My camera is a Nikon D3200

Telescope is a Skywatcher Skyhawk 114 (http://www.charleseaglesandson.com/skyhawk%20114.htm)

[atmenterprises]

Depends on your target, but I don't believe you'll have the option to set the aperture if you connect your camera body to the scope using the prime focus method, so you'll be using the aperture of the scope.

For the moon, try ISO 100 and a shutter speed somewhere around 1/100. If it's too bright, try a faster shutter speed.

For deep sky objects, you want to take as long of an exposure as you can that's not overexposed. Don't know if you'd mount is motorized, but if not the maximum length of your exposure can be calculated here:

http://www.sceneplanner.com/tool3.php

[ThePounddollar]

Thanks, having a few problems with the T-Ring now. It connect to my camera body but says that the lens is not attached. Have I got the wrong one? I bought it from first light optics. In fact I was told to buy the T-Ring from someone on this forum on another post I made. Is there a setting I should change? If I have bought the wrong one can I return it?

[ThePounddollar]

Ignore that reply. Figured out that it can only be used with 'no lens' on manual mode.

[spwhite1]

Sounds like you need the camera dial on 'M' for Manual, then vary your shutter speed to optimise your exposure. Can't recall if the D3200 has LiveView but that would allow more ergonomic review of focus and exposure results. Shoot in RAW and you can correct it all afterwards in the comfort of your own room if you're so inclined.

You're at the same stage as me. Come from a photo background with a D5100 and bought myself a Skywatcher Explorer 150p for Xmas. Happy I've got the D5100 mounting correctly via the T-ring. Hopefully my copy of 'Making Every Photon Count' should arrive today and I'll be all set. Just need a clear sky now...

[Scott Phillips]

I recently purchased a D3200 and have just got the adapter attachment for my grandfather's old Questron, but haven't been able to take any pictures. On manual the image shows up on the LCD, but when I snap it there's no image. How did you make yours work?

[gthurk]

Hi new to the site be patient please. I too have a D3200 when I use the Live View I can see the image however when I take the picture I get a black screen Can someone please tell me where I am going wrong.

Waiting with baited breath.

George

[Cornelius Varley]

Hi new to the site be patient please. I too have a D3200 when I use the Live View I can see the image however when I take the picture I get a black screen Can someone please tell me where I am going wrong.

Waiting with baited breath.

George

What are you trying to image and how ?

[LeeWilky]

Hi new to the site be patient please. I too have a D3200 when I use the Live View I can see the image however when I take the picture I get a black screen Can someone please tell me where I am going wrong.

Waiting with baited breath.

George

Im new to AP too mate but i found this tutorial and am going to try his method myself when we finally get a clear sky.  If you only took one picture then this is probably why you just have a black screen.

[dsdunbar]

black  display  screen after taking photo just means the the shutter speed was way too fast...use slower speed 1/4 sec  for example....just rotate the shutter speed wheel  until it shows  1/4  sec speed  in the LV screen.

The opposite can also happen   when looking at bright moon......except all white screen.......use much faster shutter speed to correct this  1/400   for example.

[Tinker1947]

Try imagine a bright star, ISO 800 shutter speed 10 seconds, keep upping the shutter speed until up get star trails, that will be your limit, next bit of expenditure is guiding, this normally means a HEQ5 or NEQ6 to climb a rung or 2 of the ladder then some guiding kit so you can do maybe 5 minute exposures, look on e-bay or Amazon for a remote  control to allow more than 30 second exposures, there cheap around £15 and work very well...

this is the type of remote just get one that does your Nikon...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Time-Lapse-Intervalometer-Remote-Timer-Shutter-for-Nikon-D800-D700-D300-D200-/181269757056?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item2a3484fc80

[TenBears]

You have to set the "mode" to manual "M" and just set the shutter speed to whatever.

You'll have to experiment, with what you're trying to photograph.  I would stick with the moon until you get the hang of it.

Yes, the camera doesn't know what you're trying to do because it has no idea you have it plugged into a telescope.  All it is going to tell you is the shutter speed, which you have to set manually.

Are you able to achieve focus on that scope, without having to use a barlow?

You should be able to go 5 or 6 seconds before getting too noticeable smear.  Depends on your FL.

GL!

[TenBears]

Try imagine a bright star, ISO 800 shutter speed 10 seconds, keep upping the shutter speed until up get star trails, that will be your limit, next bit of expenditure is guiding, this normally means a HEQ5 or NEQ6 to climb a rung or 2 of the ladder then some guiding kit so you can do maybe 5 minute exposures, look on e-bay or Amazon for a remote  control to allow more than 30 second exposures, there cheap around £15 and work very well...

this is the type of remote just get one that does your Nikon...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Time-Lapse-Intervalometer-Remote-Timer-Shutter-for-Nikon-D800-D700-D300-D200-/181269757056?pt=UK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL&hash=item2a3484fc80

These type are better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/360671807582?lpid=82

It's what I use with my D40.  And you DEFINATELY need one when using on your scope.

[TenBears]

That is, just for taking single snaps though.

[Tinker1947]

That is, just for taking single snaps though.

The remote i linked will take single and multi all in the same package, a Canon 1100D would be a better camera with liveview, when you focus with liveview it can see really dim stars, then take a image with it still live there's no mirror shake as its already raised.....

[Fieldsy]

Regarding a remote I just use app on phone .

im able to fit filters and lenses into my T ring can take a little fiddling about to get them at the right distance from camera chip but do get very close up views of moon.