IC410 WITH QSI583WS

[Dave Moulton]

Hi All,

Merry Christmas to you. Here is a IC410 Image taken over three nights this week including Christmas day which made me ermm a little less than popular with the missus

Stargazers Lounge - Dave Moulton's Album: Neb pics - Picture

Details

Scope GSO 8"f4 Newt

Camera QSI583WS

Mount EQ6 running EQMOD

Guiding PHD

Exposure HA 3hrs

O3 2hrs

S2 2hrs

[philj]

Thats nice Dave. 410 has been a favourite of mine for awhile in Ha cos of the tadpoles come out well. I like the colours especially of the tadpoles a subtle blue over the green of the nebula.

Philj

[Catanonia]

Really nice image there mate and stunningly smooth with tadpoles well shown.

Just finished my HaLRGB version and I know how hard this target is.

Well done.

[Tim]

Hi Dave, you've caught plenty of the nebula there

Out of interest, what colour mix have you used to blend the different layers? I haven't seen it done like this before. The O3 for this neb is pretty weak, but long exposures and lots of them will bring out the nice background "sea". The S2 is likewise not the strongest, but with a couple of hours of it you should be able to get a more contrasty effect between the Ha and S2.

Cheers

Tim

[chrisp]

Lovely

[Boren]

Lovely indeed. That's a refreshing view of a the object. I've seen so many images of it over the years, yet this one made me stop, view and enjoy very much !!

Cheers,

Harel

[Dave Moulton]

Thanks guys for all the comments, boy it is green though

Problem with the final result as far as colour goes is the weak S2 and O3 c as has been pointed out, shame as it is perfectly placed just now for me. I may try and gather some more data if the weather improves. I may try longer subs in S2 and O3 what do you guys think. If that is a route worth exploring then should I alos try more cooling forthe chip. All subs were 10 mins and chip running at -20c

I also managed some data in RGB Binned 2x2 so intend to do a normal narrow band combination and a HARGB combo as well.

Colours were mapped R S2, G HA, B O3 in this one but the Ha does tend to overwhelm the rest

Different though I guess.

Just fo rthe record though I tend to post to get contructive feedback and any tips and tricks coming my way are always welcome guys so feel free

Regards and thanks again,

Dave

[Tim]

Dave, I found that even 20 min subs were weak (@f5.3) with the MN190. If you can stretch to 15 min or 20 you will definitely get more signal.

The O3 makes this image, as it provides the background, but it too is pretty pale, but well worth going after with long subs.

To combine the channels I use a program called Registar. It aligns the pictures and then has the option to merge to RGB, assigning whichever channel you like to the appropriate colour. You can also combine the S2 and Ha with a 10:1 mix or so to help smooth it out, and also calibrate the weaker files to match the stonger ones, it really helps to give you a preview of what is possible. If you can post up your stacked unprocessed Ha, O3 and S2 subs I'll show you what I mean.

Using Photoshop you can carefully separate the colours hidden within the green. For example, this is how my M16 started out in life

Cheers

Tim

[Dave Moulton]

Tim,

Sounds interesting. The data was brought together using Registar but I am a novice with this software and need to find a good tutorial to set me along the right path.

Looks worth exploring further from what you have said

Cheers,

Dave

[Tim]

You wont get the best result, but try, once you have registered the images to each other, calibrating them and using the S2 or O3 as the reference. The colours should be more "Hubble" right out of the box.

If you calibrate them to the Ha, there will be plenty of green, but you may be able to work that out in processing.

At any rate, keep the data and just keep adding stuff to it

[Tim]

Just a thought, I have just now tried something in Registar that worked very well for smoothing out poor S2 and improving the final blend.

Register all three channels.

Combine the Ha and S2 channels with MIN as the setting

Merge to RGB using the combined file as the Red.

Try some variations on the theme (dont you just love Registar for this - SOOO quick!) but the theory is that most of the signal that you get with the S2 filter is also present in the Ha data, and by using the right parts of the ha data you can boost the S2. I know what I mean

[Dave Moulton]

Tim,

Thanks for the tips, just manged to get the help files working so hopefully I can get to grips with it. I appreciate the tips and will be giving them a go ( work is in the way at the moment so will give it a try tonight).

Just one question though I have not as yet managed to select more than two files to register so how do you register 3 at once.

[Tim]

Open all three pictures.

Choose the one with the best star shapes.

Click on one of the others, then select register, in the drop down box you should have two options, the two other files which are open. Click the best star shape one as above and register the file.

Do the same for any other files you have open, there is no limit.

Or you can do a multiple register just by opening one image, and having the other files in the same folder.

Once you have and use the _reg files, just use them, any combinations or offspring from them will be registered to your original file too. As long as you dont crop or rotate the original file you choose, you will be able to go back and add in the _reg files in photoshop etc at any time, say if you wanted to highlight some of the Ha etc.

HTH

[Dave Moulton]

Ok Tim that sounds simple enough. Will give it a try when i get in. Thanks very much for the help with this

[Tim]

Registar is getting old as a program really, but nothing seems to come close to it for ease of use and speed.

I reckon they should re-market it as a program for doing narrowband images, cuts the time down considerably.

[Dave Moulton]

Registar is getting old as a program really, but nothing seems to come close to it for ease of use and speed.

I reckon they should re-market it as a program for doing narrowband images, cuts the time down considerably.

Its pretty unique though, I need to get to grips with it now. Here is the latest attempt, not where I want to be a but a bit closer I think

Thanks for the tips, mush appreciated

Dave

[Tim]

Getting there Dave, from here, Photoshop is your friend You can use the selective colour tool to adjust the greens and blues to bring out the colours they 'should' be.

You have inspired me to dig out some older 410 data I have and have another go at it

[Dave Moulton]

TJ, Nice one another top tip, I'm with you. May try and get some more data on it though to fianish it off.

Happy New Year to you and thanks agin for the help

Dave