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Sensor Glow???

ashworthacca

By ashworthacca
in Imaging - Discussion

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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A few months ago I had my Canon 1000d astro modified with filter replacement. Maybe coincidence (or not) but since then when using AstroPhotographyTool to capture images I always get some type of sensor glow on the left hand side of the image. Always the same place and shape. I have been in discussions with Andy at Astronomiser who thought that it may be light getting into the imaging train but everything I tried didn't work. Last night he told me to send the camera back and he would test it.

However, the one thing I always used when trying different things was APT. Last night and this morning I took a number of Darks with APT, Nebulosity 2 and DSLR Remote Pro and the sensor glow only appeared in the ones shot with APT:confused:

Here's a dark from APT and one from DSLR Remote Pro

APT

5166631520_b95c525b30_z.jpg%20Canon%201000d%20Dark%20from%20APT%201.20%20by%20ashworthacca,%20on%20Flickr"]5166631520_b95c525b30_z.jpg Canon 1000d Dark from APT 1.20 by ashworthacca, on Flickr

DSLR Remote Pro

5166627966_3d80cf5204_z.jpg

Canon 1000d Dark from DSLR Remote Pro by ashworthacca, on Flickr

Does anyone have any clue as to why this is happening as APT really is superb.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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Are you using the mirror lockup option in APT ? I believe it uses liveview to lift the mirror, and with liveview active, the amp is on.

Yes I am although I was under the impression that unless I had an additional cable to bypass the mirror lockup option I had to??

How come it doesn't happen when using Nebulosity and DSLR Pro??

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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I don't know how those work... sorry. I'm using a timer remote, so it's not an issue for me.

No worries John, thanks for the input.

I'm just a little confused as I thought that APT was programmed using the only way available to control the 1000d but it looks like Nebulosity and DSLR Remote Pro do it differently.......not causing amp glow in the process.

I've asked Ivo to have a look at this thread to see what he thinks.

Thanks again.:)

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Yoddha

Yoddha

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Hi Martin,

To use the serial cable as shutter (mirror lock) you should select the COM port. If you use "Virtual" then LiveView is part of the game.

I always suggest if there is an option, to bypass the usage of the LiveView.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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Hi Martin,

To use the serial cable as shutter (mirror lock) you should select the COM port. If you use "Virtual" then LiveView is part of the game.

I always suggest if there is an option, to bypass the usage of the LiveView.

Thanks Ivo....It looks like I need to purchase the serial cable now then.:)

Any idea why the sensor glow doesn't happen in Nebulosity or DSLR Remote Pro?? Have they programmed Mirror Lock in a different way?

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Yoddha

Yoddha

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Just to clarify. APT can make mirror lock by two ways - normal (with serial cable or DSUSB) and simulation (Virtual - using LiveView). The other packages doesn't have simulation...

If you want to turn the simulation Off, use Antivibration = 0s and you will have the same darks as from the other programs.

I use serial cable to be sure that there will not be any blur from the shutter.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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Just to clarify. APT can make mirror lock by two ways - normal (with serial cable or DSUSB) and simulation (Virtual - using LiveView). The other packages doesn't have simulation...

If you want to turn the simulation Off, use Antivibration = 0s and you will have the same darks as from the other programs.

I use serial cable to be sure that there will not be any blur from the shutter.

Ivo.....I get it now. Just done a test in DSLR Remote Pro with Liveview enabled and the same sensor glow.

I'll be ordering the serial cable from Andy at Astronomiser to solve this.

Many thanks Ivo.

Regards

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MickyWay

MickyWay

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Hi Martin,

Hope you don't mind, but I've posted this thread on Yahoo Groups - DSLR Mods.

I've had this problem for sometime, and didn't associate it with the capture program, so I'm very grateful to you ( and Ivo), for coming up with the solution.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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Hi Martin,

Hope you don't mind, but I've posted this thread on Yahoo Groups - DSLR Mods.

I've had this problem for sometime, and didn't associate it with the capture program, so I'm very grateful to you ( and Ivo), for coming up with the solution.

That's great news that this thread has been some help to you. I don't mind at all that you've posted it on DSLR Mods, the more people who can benefit from the info the better.

My shutter release cable should be here in a day or two so i'll confirm whether or not it cures my problem.....but I'm sure it will.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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Well, the cable arrived from Astronomiser this morning and I've just run off a few test shots in APT and it works. Sensor glow with just USB attached and using virtual long exposure control, disappears when using the shutter release cable.

Thanks for all your help guys.

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ashworthacca

ashworthacca

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So those replace the need for a battery in the camera? Very impressive as batteries hate cold and these look fantastic.

Yes, plug the battery end into the camera and the other end into your cigarette lighter adapter on your power tank (I use a 85ah leisure battery) and away you go.

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  • 6 years later...
PhillipJFry

PhillipJFry

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I've had the same problem with my Canon T1i while using DSLR Controller android app. I resolved it by disabling "Live view mode at startup" app setting. What was happening: with "Live view at startup" on and at ISO's 100-1600 the camera would not lower the mirror (and then raise it) upon shutter release; instead, it would start imaging right after pressing the shutter button. I guess all the amp glows and residual charges were captured nicely therefore. What is interesting - this was not happening at ISO's 3200 and higher - the mirror was lowered and then raised before taking exposure. I guess during mirror raise procedure the sensor is flushed of all residual charges, keeping the noise level low.

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