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MickyWay

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Everything posted by MickyWay

  1. Hi All, I've been using the Dark Sky app for a few weeks now, and I can recommend it's use. To quote the website 'Dark Sky uses state-of-the-art technology to predict when it will rain or snow — down to the minute — at your exact location' and that pretty much sums it up. No gimmicks, and very accurate for the current hour. I've found the predictions for rain and cloud to be spot on, which is great if you want to nip out for a quick shoot or observation. Even reliable when deciding when to put the washing out or not ...! Details can be found here http://darkskyapp.com/ Regards, Colin
  2. Agree with Guy, you need a good quality 2A, 12volt supply for this camera alone. Adding an EFW, I'd go for a 5amp supply to be on the safe side. Regards, Colin
  3. Taken between 23rd November and 21 December 2012 (when the clouds were kind). All images single shots using the ultimate 'grab and go' EOS7D and 100-400L. Hope you like them. Colin
  4. Hi Andy, I'm not familiar with Backyard EOS, but you might find this helpful: http://astrocasto.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/review-of-backyard-eos-for-framing-and.html#!/2012/03/review-of-backyard-eos-for-framing-and.html This link was endorsed by the author of Backyard EOS, and the program is used for framing and focusing, after which a remote timer was used for the exposures. An alternative to a remote timer is DSLR Shutter, from the excellent Craig Stark: http://www.stark-labs.com/page26/DSLR_Shutter.html The program is free, and very easy to use, but you'll need a Canon serial shutter cable: http://www.astronomiser.co.uk/300d.htm#serial Andy Ellis makes very good quality accessories, and he's a nice bloke as well. Hope this all helps, Colin
  5. 'Amp glow' is caused by using ' Live View' during long exposures. It always shows in the same area of the image in EOS cameras. Turn off the live view after you have framed and focused your target and you won't get 'amp glow'. Hope this helps, Colin
  6. Sorry for the delay in replying, but thanks everyone for the very nice comments. Regards, and Seasons Greetings to All, Colin.
  7. The clouds were kind for a change, so I took this: Single frame, 1/160th @ f5.6, ISO200, Canon 7D, EF 100-400 @ 400mm. A bit much to expect any detail on the ISS (it only covered 100 pixels) ! The ISS is 250 miles above the Earth, the Moon is 250,000, and I hope it shows just how small we are. Regards, Colin.
  8. Same exposure, same time, I'll let you decide which has the clip CLS filter Colin.
  9. SII's going to add even more depth, hang in there! Colin.
  10. Really excellent result with modest equipment. Just goes to show what is possible without breaking the bank. Regards, Colin.
  11. I think it would be a very good idea to include a light pollution rating on our 'Profle'. Perhaps the Bortle dark-sky scale could be used ? I'm sure this would give some reassurance to imagers and observers alike, that location and light pollution levels can have a dramatic effect on the quality of what can be seen or imaged. For the record, my own location has a rating of Class 7 on the Bortle dark-sky scale, Class 1 is an excellent dark sky site. Regards, Colin.
  12. Cracking images. The second one is a real classic. Very jealous of your dark skies. Regards, Colin.
  13. Hi, James, Rob and Chris, Looks like I'm in the minority here and I really like your images James and Chris. I particularly like your second image James, it also shows Aristarchus well I have stacked DSLR images in the past, with mixed results, but perhaps I should see what I get with this image. Regards, Colin.
  14. Thanks Bryan. James and Buzz, I don't think that stacking would improve the image very much. I only stack video frames, which give a higher proportion of sharp images. Regards, Colin
  15. Thanks Jules and James. It's a single frame. I shot about 20 frames and selected the sharpest. Regards, Colin.
  16. Moon of the 27th September. I think it shows Aristarchus (brightest prominent crater) quite well. (Canon1000D, 1/800th @ ISO400, Celestron C8 SCT). Regards, Colin.
  17. Hi Daniel, The histogram looks typical. Try moving the left hand slider (black pixels) up to the start of the curve. You can try moving the centre slider (grey pixels) a little to the left. This will improve the contrast of the image. Press 'cancel' to start again. Always crop your image to get rid of any black borders that may be present after stacking. Otherwise you'll have a distorted histogram to start with. Regards, Colin
  18. Hi Ray, I think you can see with the examples above that you've got an excellent image, and I agree with CW in that there's not a lot wrong, and we all have our own preferences with the final result. I've attached my own attempt, which shows how much data you have captured. M31 is a difficult image to process because of the huge range of brightness. Two exposures, one for the core, and one for the star forming regions (which you have already got), can be blended together to form a more complete image, but I like what you have done so far. You can never capture too much quality data, so well done with your effort so far.
  19. Hi Andy, very promising image with lots of detail. Could I suggest you crop the raw stacked image before stretching. This will get rid of the black edges and make the histogram a lot better. You seem to have cut into the red channel and lost a lot of interesting stuff. Regards,
  20. Well done Gina, you did well with the Moon almost full and very close by.
  21. Hi John, Great image captured under 'challenging' conditions. Amazing amount of detail, including some dark lanes showing clearly. I can relate with the problems your location causes. Just means we have to persevere just that bit more. Regards.
  22. Just a suggestion, but you may find that dropping your ASA to 400 will reduce the noise on your raw images. The Altair Astro 8" f4 is a pretty fast 'scope, so you shouldn't need quite such a high ASA value.
  23. Well done Tom. So many objects to choose from, especially now you have a modded 1000D
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