Modifying a DSLR EOS 1000D

[MickyWay]

The intention of this post is to offer advice to anyone contemplating modifying their DSLR for astrophotography. I have just finished the mod, and I made a few mistakes, as we do, but I'm relieved to say the end result looks very promising. So, if you want to ask questions, please do so. If I can't answer them, there's bound to be someone on the forum that can.

I was guided by the instructions published by Gary Honis on his Yahoo! DSLR Mod group, without which I couldn't have done the job. All the technical alternatives to the mod can be found on his web site, and the websites of others who will do the mod for you.

Why modify a perfectly good camera?

I asked myself this question a hundred times before arriving at a satisfactory answer.

What we see is visible light. The spectrum is very narrow, which is ‘all’ we need for everyday life.

To see the detail in many astro objects, visible light is not enough. Outside this spectrum lies ‘invisible’ light, the light that nebula and galaxies emit. It is some of this extra light that we can capture using our modified DSLRS that make deep sky images so full of colour and beauty.

You don’t need to modify your camera if your main interest are stars and star clusters. Nor does modification enhance pictures of the Moon or wide field shots of the planets.

In fact, unmodified DSLR’s are inherently sensitive in the red part of the spectrum, and some spectacular images of M42 and other bright nebulae have appeared many times on these forums. The choice is yours.

I decided to mod the camera, replacing the stock IR cut filter with a Baader Correction Filter 245-9213. This would enable capture of deep sky objects, with colour extending into the infra red, and by applying a custom colour balance, allow use for everyday photography. The Baader filter extends the visible spectrum by a small amount, so ‘Auto focus’ still works.

A full spectrum mod is possible, in which the stock IR filter is removed without replacement. Because the light spectrum is extended considerably, the light reaching the imaging sensor arrives at different periods of time, and auto focusing is not possible. The full spectrum camera then becomes dedicated to astrophotography.

Once you have decided to do the mod, I offer the following advice:

Only attempt it if you are confident in your ability to work in a methodical and precise way.

Don’t rush, take your time. It can take a day, or more to do this mod. I was tempted to do the job as quickly as possible, and made mistakes as a result.

Follow a set procedure. There are a number of these on the web, but I used Gary Honis’ guide http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod450d1.html, which is superb.

Prepare, read and reread the procedure before starting.

Try to do it without being disturbed. It’s amazing how you can lose your place in proceedings.

Take frequent breaks.

When you finally finish, congratulate yourself on a job well done!

[Euan]

Also make sure you have the correct tools for the job

I found the hardest thing was manipulating the ribbon cables without snapping or damaging them. Using a toothpick, as shown in the GH mod is the best way to go, they are much easier to get in and out if you can get something into the little holes on each one

[Deneb]

& keep the Electronic components in something like Anti-Static Bags...

Nadeem

[George]

I laid out some white card with numbered boxes drawn on it for each step, sticky tape was placed in each box for the bits that were removed keeping them safe from upsets. It made reversal of the steps easier too.

Ive modified a 350D & 1000D using this method.