IC5146, NGC 6992, M 27

[ncjunk]

Hi,

I was playing again last night and added more data to my M27 but also did some small shots of B168 and NGC 6992.

IC5146 was 5 x 120s for each LRGB

NGC was 3 x 120s for RGB and 1 of 120s for lum

M27 is...errr..oh that involves checking the fits headers...may have to get back to you on that.

Oh and 1 of M13 which was just a pointing correction check really.

Great fun as I had never looked at 168 and 6992.

Gracias

Neil C

[Tim]

Looks like you had a busy night Neil!

Are you guiding these shots? The stars are an odd shape, but I'm assuming they dont come off the camera like that after just a few seconds? It'd be worth finding out where the anomaly lies and eliminating it. How do the individual subs look? It's almost like the camera has moved once during each sequence.

It might be that by tightening up on the stacking config, you can prevent this coming through, and then these nice shots will be even better. Are you using DSS?

Cheers

Tim

[Taff]

Hi Neil' They are very nice captures' great details.Mark

[ncjunk]

Tim,

You are 100% correct, some of the subs are iffy. The guiding is the next thing to set up but it is going to take a while as i need to test it with acp and maxim (I am running unattended using acp observing plans). I can´t spend all nighters with the new kid around so i am waiting for winter when i can start at 7 or 8.

I think by november i will have the setup automated and working correctly. 2 other things to do are homemade dew heater and home made focus unit.

I am getting 200sec subs but 1st lum is always ruined with settling time...also i suppose the filter wheel may add vibrations...hhmmm.

half the subs are ok so i just need to tighten and tweak.

Neil C

[ncjunk]

That should really be ic 5146....

ah well

nc

[Aza]

Nice set of images, once you get the stars under control they will be even better!

Be careful with your processing though, you have clipped the black point, which has resulted in the loss of the fainter details that you have captured.

I think you have a fair bit extra info in those images that could be displayed

[Starstrike]

That was a marathon Neil and a nice set of images to boot. I can highly recommend setting up the autoguiding, the accurate tracking and longer exposures sure made a difference to my imaging.

Paul

[Starstrike]

Oh, just another point. If you auto everything for imaging, (almost achieved that), once you have set the scope up( about ten mins)you can sit inside your nice cosy house in winter with the baby and enjoy both.

Paul

[ncjunk]

Paul,

thanks for the comments and yes that is the idea so that

i can enjoy the astronomy and the family!

I tried a drift align using some software mentioned onhere but dont know if i got it right. i picked a star in the north when one overhead may have been better. i will

play again when i get the chance.

i have the 15 min setup now and it will image all night, just got to tweak it now.

neil c

[Aza]

I use this method when setting up.

Tim Tasto Deep Space Imaging and Astrophotography

Weather you are guiding or not, this will help get the better polar alignment you need.

[Starstrike]

Hi Neil,

I have tried drift aligning when trying to photograph galaxies with the scope at f/6 manually, but gave up, the clouds were a nuisance. I will have to get round to drift alignment again. Is this the software you are referring to: Polar Alignment - WCS - Fast and accurate polaralignment for astronomical mounts, using a CCD / webcam and drift alignment. If not, it may help, there are some good tips. Paul

[ncjunk]

paul- yep that is the software i tried, i will give it another go sometime.

arran- i had forgotten about that method, tried it once with my old lxd. I think it may be a good idea hooking up the 8" spx and trying it again.

i will get there i just get there slowly one painfull step at a time.

Neil

[Psychobilly]

The major work has been done gettignt he obs up and runnig and the scopes installed..

Once you get the alignment and/or guiding sorted the images will be spot on... the detail will start to leap out of the DSO becasue at the moment their faint details are being smeared just like the stars are...

Looking forward to seeing the results

Peter...

[Tim]

For drift aligning you'll need one star low either east or west, and one at the zenith.

I use a dead simple bomb proof method from a website, even I can follow it

Classic Astrophotography - Photographing the Cosmos with ordinary film

200 secs is a looooong sub unless your polar alignment is perfect. Even then you'll get a periodic error which may give a little jump. When you start guiding everything becomes easy easy easy, and you'll have much more free time during a session.

I would try nailing it now, while its warm and comfortable, even if you dont do any imaging, that way, you'll get the best out of the darker skies.