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Power supply requirements for ASI 533MC Pro, or similar


geoflewis

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I'm considering one of these cooled DSO cameras, that are shipped without any PS. My primary use will be with my travel rig in remote locations, where I won't have access to mains PS, so will need to run off power tank (s) / battery (ies). I know that these cameras won't work without a PS, so I'm wondering whether the supply from a Power Tank or Lithium battery will be adequate to cool the camera and run other equipment, e.g. mount, dew control, etc., or will I need to run separate supplies for the camera and other gear, or do they need access to mains supply. I'd be interrsted in learning the experience of anyone using these cooled cameras away from access to mains supply.

Edited by geoflewis
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I used to use a Celestron Lithium LT with my azgti setup eq mode (dew bands powered separately as they are extremely power hungry if you can't adjust them, even mine on low draw a lot of power), powered the whole lot for around 2-3 hours.

When I upped the mount it was no longer sufficient as the mounts complained, so for them I use a Talentcell, and usually I have to feed the mount power, then the asiair etc with another, but if imaging for a short duration (1-2 hours) I can still use the one. The azgti setup I used to feed the asiair then everything else off it, but the other mounts I feed the mount, then from the mount to the air and everything else and this works better.

Reduced cooling say to 0 rather than minus 10 Deg C saves power. If you use a non cooled camera, well you're laughing as the batteries will last much longer.

Edited by Elp
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24 minutes ago, Elp said:

I used to use a Celestron Lithium LT with my azgti setup eq mode (dew bands powered separately as they are extremely power hungry if you can't adjust them, even mine on low draw a lot of power), powered the whole lot for around 2-3 hours.

When I upped the mount it was no longer sufficient as the mounts complained, so for them I use a Talentcell, and usually I have to feed the mount power, then the asiair etc with another, but if imaging for a short duration (1-2 hours) I can still use the one. The azgti setup I used to feed the asiair then everything else off it, but the other mounts I feed the mount, then from the mount to the air and everything else and this works better.

Reduced cooling say to 0 rather than minus 10 Deg C saves power. If you use a non cooled camera, well you're laughing as the batteries will last much longer.

Thanks. I'm looking to move from my modified Canon 600D DSLR, so I'd definely want to use a cooled camera.  Which model Talentcell do you have and how long does that run. I'll be using either with my StarAdventurer, or more likely my EQ5Pro. I have a fully equiped obsevatory at home for most of my imaging, but there are some summer targets that I'll only be able to get from remote locations and the thermal noise in the DSLR in summer is horendous, hence thinking about a cooled astrocam, but the costs are adding up....🙄🤔

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28 minutes ago, adyj1 said:

I have run my 533MC PRO in the field off a 12v battery with no problem. 

2 x 8Ah LifePo4 batteries happily ran my 533 / AZ-GTI / mini PC  (no dew heaters) all night.

Ady

Thanks Ady, so just to be clear, are you connecting the 533 direct to the LifePo4, or are you running it via something like an ASIair. To keep costs down, I'd really like to run it direct from the PS, so if that works for you that would be great.

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This was my first one, think stock has run dry:

TalentCell 12V/8300mAh 9V/11000mAh 5V/20000mAh DC Output Rechargeable Lithium ion Battery Pack

Second one which I think is slightly higher capacity:

TalentCell 12V LiFePO4 Battery Pack LF4100, 2000 Cycles Rechargeable 12.8V 6.5Ah 83.2Wh Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery

Both out of stock on Amazon, they were quite abundant 2-3 years ago.

I did try the DIY LiFePo4 route but for a specific setup I tried it with the batteries were not good enough (voltage drop with 5 mins), no such problem with the above if you can find them or an equivalent.

There are the obvious larger capacity ones from Jackery etc at more cost, I bought the above to tick the airline friendly box if I ever need to take them.

Edited by Elp
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Take these with a pinch of salt but I measured this when I tested the difference a connected cooling cam made attached to my rig, these are the added power draw the camera made:

0.5A when cooling at 40pc

0.8A at 60pc

1.2A at 70pc

1.7A at 80pc

With the asiair you cant control the pc rate the camera cools, it does this automatically based on ambient temperature and the cooling limit you set.

Edited by Elp
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3 hours ago, geoflewis said:

Thanks Ady, so just to be clear, are you connecting the 533 direct to the LifePo4, or are you running it via something like an ASIair. To keep costs down, I'd really like to run it direct from the PS, so if that works for you that would be great.

short answer: direct.

longer answer: 2 batteries wired in parallel, through an inline fuse into a DIY 3d-printed power splitter box and then individually into camera / mount / 12v pc / focuser and filter wheel.

Ady

 

PS - You probably already know, but unlike most other cooled cameras, the 533 won't work uncooled/without power.  

 

 

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Thanks everyone, lots of excellent information and lots for me to think about. As I feared, I’ll need to invest significantly more than just the cost of a cooled astro camera to move away from the DSLR, so I’m not ready to pull the trigger on that step yet….🙄

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I ran my 533MCPro, tracker and Asi Air pro from a couple of Sandberg laptop power banks. They have USB, USBC and 12v outlets, airline portable. The 533 noise performance is great, so you can get away with a higher operating temperature

 

sandberg-all-in-one-laptop-powerbank-24000-mah-24000-888mah-musta.jpg.39a77aac79f63b1b00618261d9f5ec49.jpg

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There are lots of power options open to you.

If the size/weight is not an issue, then the old fashioned lead acid leisure battery is easier on the wallet.
A well understood method and you get a lot of amps for a lot of hours for not much money.
It is worth thinking about. Especially as it leaves more £££ for the camera.

When looking at the various lithium packs, you need to choose carefully.
Sellers often quote a total cell capacity - not the capacity at 12V, which is far lower.
It rather like me saying that my car will run at 100mph and return 60mpg. Yes it will - but not at the ame time!
Capacity is usually quoted under ideal discharge conditions. Deviate from these and capacity reduces.
Stick with known names for power packs. Yes you pay the money, but you will be much safer.
There are a lot of unsafe lithium packs and chargers out there. Just look at the frequent reports of fires.


 

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