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Celestron Nexstar 6SE Advice / Help Please


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1 hour ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

Thanks for the helpful insight! I’m going to follow that advice and use my garage as stated. I have no even set it up yet so I’m super excited to give this a whirl. I’m hoping I get some decent views considering location. I would love to get the Televue 7mm I’m just afraid that level mag is too high for my scope in combination with my location and Bortle level. Quick question do filters only work for astrophotography or are they useful for simple visual observation as well?

The UHC and Olll filters I think can be used for astro-imaging as well as visual. The Baader Neodymium is mainly visual, but it can be used for imaging if you are not to finicky or fussy about the end result. It does however give a pale blue hue when used visually when viewing Jupiter. For serious astro-imaging there are ‘specialist’ filters. I am not yet into that side of the hobby and I am reading up on it. I am sure other SGL’ers will correct me if wrong!

As most Celestron SCT’s are f10, it maybe worth purchasing their focal reducer/field flattener. It will reduce to a slightly faster f6.3 and reduce your exposure times.

Back to the TeleVue Delite... My C6/SCT when used with my 6mm Radian gives me a magnification 250x. Below is an image of Mars taken with the aforementioned setup, plus the Neodymium filter and using a digital compact camera, minus the f6.3 FF/FR. All were mounted on a manual alt-az mount and from the parking lot of an airport hotel. The visual view was better.

post-4682-0-78689800-1397085557_thumb.jpg

Edited by RT65CB-SWL
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8 minutes ago, RT65CB-SWL said:

The UHC and Olll filters I think can be used for astro-imaging as well as visual. The Baader Neodymium is mainly visual, but it can be used for imaging if you are not to finicky or fussy about the end result. It does however give a pale blue hue when used visually when viewing Jupiter. For serious astro-imaging there are ‘specialist’ filters. I am not yet into that side of the hobby and I am reading up on it, but I am sure other SGL’ers will correct me.

As most Celestron SCT’s are f10, it maybe worth purchasing their focal reducer/field flattener. It will reduce to a slightly faster f6.3 and reduce your exposure times.

Back to the TeleVue Delite... My C6/SCT when used with my 6mm Radian gives me a magnification 250x. Below is an image of Mars taken with the aforementioned setup, plus the Neodymium filter and using a digital compact camera, minus the f6.3 FF/FR. All were mounted on a manual alt-az mount and from the parking lot of an airport hotel. The visual view was better.

post-4682-0-78689800-1397085557_thumb.jpg

Wow that’s great! My only fear is my main viewing location is a Bortle 8-9 so I fear the Televue may be a big purchase that shows little or no result in my area

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9 minutes ago, RT65CB-SWL said:

List of TeleVue Delite e/p’s... https://www.firstlightoptics.com/tele-vue-eyepieces/tele-vue-delite-62-degree-eyepieces.html

We love spending other people’s money! 😜

lol 😂 should I take that as even though I’m in a Bortle 8-9 and my scope is a 6SE it would still do a worthy job?

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49 minutes ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

At the risk of sounding stupid. I believe I read (at least with filters) somewhere that even in my location I could see Nebula but only certain types? It’s possible I am wrong. I’m going to look into the scope you stated here. Is that scope primarily for DSO?

Dual-band filters will improve the view of nebulae by passing only the nebula narrow-band spectral emissions. But don't get your hopes up - most of these things are inherently so faint that they only show up on a photographic exposure. I have an OIII filter which I bought for viewing nebulae. it did make some things a bit clearer but I wasn't impressed and have not tried using it for ages.

For info on the Seestar S50, read the thread on this forum.  From a dark skies site, it will image any deep sky object of suitable size, but as many have found it's magic for imaging nebulae from urban sites, including many objects not visible at all by 'visual' observation.

There's no reason why you shouldn't buy a cheap Windows laptop (new or used) It will run more astro programs and if it suffers a mishap in the dark it won't be such a tragedy. ☹️

Re. any sort of imaging, including EAA, you scope outfit is not suited to any sort of imaging except planetary imaging.  I took some nice planetary images with my C8 SE, but it was such a pain that in the end I bought another 8 inch SCT with a better mount solely for the purpose.

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You should try using the scope before rushing to buy more stuff.  At f10, expensive eyepieces will not necessarily produce a markedly better view than $30 Plossls.

The f6.3 focal reducer is really intended for imaging use (and see my comment in the other post.)  If used visually, it will just reduce the image scale and give a wider field of view - an effect you can obtain more cheaply with a low power eyepiece.

The sole effect of the Celestron heater ring is to warm the faceplace up a bit and counter dewing.  Find out if you actually experience any dewing with the dewshield in place, before buying, as you don't want another lot of cables trailing around to little purpose.

Edited by Cosmic Geoff
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7 minutes ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

lol 😂 should I take that as even though I’m in a Bortle 8-9 and my scope is a 6SE it would still do a worthy job?

At home I am in Bortle 6. The airport hotel parking lot is Bortle 8-9... and the airport is London Heathrow (LHR).

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2 hours ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

I’m guessing you cannot visual observe at the same time? It replaces the eyepiece?

With a basic diagonal yes. But if you want more value from your time observing invest in a flip diagonal mirror, one end is straight through so you can attach your camera to that end, the other is 90 degrees so you can put an eyepiece into it, then there's a knob on the central box so you can flip the mirror up and down. No need to remove camera or eyepiece, can change between the two on the fly. I sometimes even use the camera to plate solve so the mount centralises the target every time perfectly, then choose to image short bursts or view. You'll need a computer controller or software to implement plate solving and auto goto via a camera, it also needs an equatorial mount, but you can still do plate solving with your existing mount using additional computer software as the process doesn't interface with the mount.

Edited by Elp
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Sounds like you're doing great!

One other resource you might look at if you haven't already is the "Cloudy Nights" forum page. This thread specifically is about  observing from Bortle 8-9. Long thread started by a beginner without much experience, and a lot of helpful comments.

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/881347-if-you-live-in-bortle-7-or-8-or-9-what-did-you-see-last-night-in-your-scope/

Clear skies!

Edited by bwj
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Following on from my previous postings, there is a small app [it’s free] written by fellow SGL’er @Artik …it is AstroHopper …link below:

It should help with locating things in a light-polluted night sky. Alternatively, there is PushToCam for Telescope [paid app] on the Apple App Store.

I have downloaded both to my iPhone 12.

Edited by RT65CB-SWL
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9 hours ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

Thank you! Funny story my parents and sister knew I was getting the scope and one gifted me Safari Pro 7 and the other Stellarium so I have paid versions of both. I don’t have a windows PC only Mac but it seems I can do everything on my iPad Pro 12inch if I’m not mistaken? In addition I also have the WiFi module for the scope. 

Oh that'll be good, try both you'll settle on one for preference, I haven't used SkySafari, just Stellarium mostly on PC.

With the WiFi module you should be able to control the mount from your ipad, certainly can on android, I dont see why apple wouldn't.  I believe the paid version of Stellarium allows control but may be trickier to set up than the Celestron SkyPortal app I presume is on apple too and I remember using for a while before upgrading the mount.

Reading through the advice, I think you're getting a bit bombarded, I'd stick to the kit you've got, get the hang of setting it up and using it, focusing, checking collimation (roughly with defocused doughnut shape).  The other books suggested could be worth a look, but forget cameras and seestars other eyepieces or filters till you know what you can and can't see from your location.

The dew heater ring (I have one) is great if you have issues with dew forming on the corrector plate (glass on front).  It will cloud out your views so keep an eye out for it and try to avoid wiping it off, it'll leave marks, if your atmosphere is dry or warm you might not have much of an issue with dew, the shield could be all you need.

Oh you asked if the heat ring negates acclamation time, No the ring stops dew forming on the cold lens by warming it to above the dew point which depends on temp and humidity.  These SCTs are a closed unit with a large volume of air inside, when you take it out from the warm house this air gradually cools to match the outside temp, as it does convection currents develop inside the tube as cold air falls off the cold metal and glass and the warmer air in the centre rises, this turbulence affects "seeing" in the same way high altitude winds can, since the light is passing 3x through the tube.  I keep mine indoors, just get it out of the bag and leave it in the colder conservatory from sunset on nights that are forecast clear skies.

On the subject another free app I use is Clear Outside, gives and general indication of which nights a week ahead are worth keeping an eye on for clear spells, they can get longer or shorter or arrive earlier or later but looking a day or 2 ahead they've usually got it nailed down pretty close.

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10 hours ago, Cosmic Geoff said:

Dual-band filters will improve the view of nebulae by passing only the nebula narrow-band spectral emissions. But don't get your hopes up - most of these things are inherently so faint that they only show up on a photographic exposure. I have an OIII filter which I bought for viewing nebulae. it did make some things a bit clearer but I wasn't impressed and have not tried using it for ages.

For info on the Seestar S50, read the thread on this forum.  From a dark skies site, it will image any deep sky object of suitable size, but as many have found it's magic for imaging nebulae from urban sites, including many objects not visible at all by 'visual' observation.

There's no reason why you shouldn't buy a cheap Windows laptop (new or used) It will run more astro programs and if it suffers a mishap in the dark it won't be such a tragedy. ☹️

Re. any sort of imaging, including EAA, you scope outfit is not suited to any sort of imaging except planetary imaging.  I took some nice planetary images with my C8 SE, but it was such a pain that in the end I bought another 8 inch SCT with a better mount solely for the purpose.

I appreciate the insight I actually picked up a SeeStar S50 to compliment my scope due to where I live. Sadly comes shortly after Christmas but it’s tough to get. I appreciate the honest insight! 

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8 hours ago, Elp said:

With a basic diagonal yes. But if you want more value from your time observing invest in a flip diagonal mirror, one end is straight through so you can attach your camera to that end, the other is 90 degrees so you can put an eyepiece into it, then there's a knob on the central box so you can flip the mirror up and down. No need to remove camera or eyepiece, can change between the two on the fly. I sometimes even use the camera to plate solve so the mount centralises the target every time perfectly, then choose to image short bursts or view. You'll need a computer controller or software to implement plate solving and auto goto via a camera, it also needs an equatorial mount, but you can still do plate solving with your existing mount using additional computer software as the process doesn't interface with the mount.

Thank you so much for the info!

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8 hours ago, Elp said:

With a basic diagonal yes. But if you want more value from your time observing invest in a flip diagonal mirror, one end is straight through so you can attach your camera to that end, the other is 90 degrees so you can put an eyepiece into it, then there's a knob on the central box so you can flip the mirror up and down. No need to remove camera or eyepiece, can change between the two on the fly. I sometimes even use the camera to plate solve so the mount centralises the target every time perfectly, then choose to image short bursts or view. You'll need a computer controller or software to implement plate solving and auto goto via a camera, it also needs an equatorial mount, but you can still do plate solving with your existing mount using additional computer software as the process doesn't interface with the mount.

I just ordered a SeeStar S50. It seems like for 500 bucks I’m not in to much deeper then trying to outfit my Celestron. Plus from what I have read it shines in high bortle / urban settings like mine

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6 hours ago, bwj said:

Sounds like you're doing great!

One other resource you might look at if you haven't already is the "Cloudy Nights" forum page. This thread specifically is about  observing from Bortle 8-9. Long thread started by a beginner without much experience, and a lot of helpful comments.

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/881347-if-you-live-in-bortle-7-or-8-or-9-what-did-you-see-last-night-in-your-scope/

Clear skies!

Thanks will read tonight!

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1 hour ago, LandyJon said:

Oh that'll be good, try both you'll settle on one for preference, I haven't used SkySafari, just Stellarium mostly on PC.

With the WiFi module you should be able to control the mount from your ipad, certainly can on android, I dont see why apple wouldn't.  I believe the paid version of Stellarium allows control but may be trickier to set up than the Celestron SkyPortal app I presume is on apple too and I remember using for a while before upgrading the mount.

Reading through the advice, I think you're getting a bit bombarded, I'd stick to the kit you've got, get the hang of setting it up and using it, focusing, checking collimation (roughly with defocused doughnut shape).  The other books suggested could be worth a look, but forget cameras and seestars other eyepieces or filters till you know what you can and can't see from your location.

The dew heater ring (I have one) is great if you have issues with dew forming on the corrector plate (glass on front).  It will cloud out your views so keep an eye out for it and try to avoid wiping it off, it'll leave marks, if your atmosphere is dry or warm you might not have much of an issue with dew, the shield could be all you need.

Oh you asked if the heat ring negates acclamation time, No the ring stops dew forming on the cold lens by warming it to above the dew point which depends on temp and humidity.  These SCTs are a closed unit with a large volume of air inside, when you take it out from the warm house this air gradually cools to match the outside temp, as it does convection currents develop inside the tube as cold air falls off the cold metal and glass and the warmer air in the centre rises, this turbulence affects "seeing" in the same way high altitude winds can, since the light is passing 3x through the tube.  I keep mine indoors, just get it out of the bag and leave it in the colder conservatory from sunset on nights that are forecast clear skies.

On the subject another free app I use is Clear Outside, gives and general indication of which nights a week ahead are worth keeping an eye on for clear spells, they can get longer or shorter or arrive earlier or later but looking a day or 2 ahead they've usually got it nailed down pretty close.

I really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for the advice about the heat ring and acclimating to temps! I read about using Reflectix wrapped around the scope. Is this something I should do? Or is more of a choice. Use reflectix for immediate use from indoor to outdoor or let it sit outside for some time prior to use and no need for reflectix?

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7 hours ago, Vinnyvent84 said:

I really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for the advice about the heat ring and acclimating to temps! I read about using Reflectix wrapped around the scope. Is this something I should do? Or is more of a choice. Use reflectix for immediate use from indoor to outdoor or let it sit outside for some time prior to use and no need for reflectix?

Again, I wouldn't get overly concerned about things like that, yes its a cheap, easy modification that I believe speeds up acclimatisation times, but its more a concern for larger SCTs with exponentially larger volumes of air to wait to cool and which generate more turbulent currents.

Your 6" will be acclimatized before you've even finished setting up the first few times out, it'll take you an hour figuring out tripod levelling, location setting, star alignments, Goto, focus etc. You don't need the best seeing while you're setting up, yes it can take an hour but even when you're setting up in 10-15 mins it just means your views will still be improving for the next 45 mins so don't start trying to look at the faintest of targets straight away, see what planets you can see, check out Orion or some big galaxies, by the time you're getting down to the fainter stuff it'll be well settled, then come back to the other stuff see if you can pick out more detail.

In time, yes you might want to be setup and looking at the fainter stuff quicker, modifications like insulation will help, but you're not 'bored' of the main targets yet or experienced enough to be setup ready to observe in 5 mins.

The reflectix/camping mat insulation slows down the cooling of the metal tube, it effectively extends the acclimation time, but in doing so it reduces the temp difference between the surfaces and the air inside, cutting down the turbulence, but again its more a larger scope issue anyway.  Just get out, get used to the kit you've bought and start enjoying the views as they improve over the 1st hour 🙂

For reference, I went from the 6" to 9.25" take a look at the difference in volume of air to cool/form turbulence, then imagine the 11" and 14" where SCT coolers become worth the investment.

20220514_200257.thumb.jpg.12ecdcee31d8117c574709b23becbadb.jpg

This thread will still be here in a few months to refer back to advice you've been given to improve your experience, but I'd advise worry more about getting used to using it than improving it for now and more important enjoy it 🙂

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On 21/12/2023 at 21:54, RT65CB-SWL said:

Following on from my previous postings, there is a small app [it’s free] written by fellow SGL’er @Artik …it is AstroHopper …link below:

It should help with locating things in a light-polluted night sky. Alternatively, there is PushToCam for Telescope [paid app] on the Apple App Store.

I have downloaded both to my iPhone 12.

The 6SE  is a goto scope. You should be able to point inherently with a reasonable degree of accuracy. I have the 5SE which uses the same software and although it's nit always bang on, it's pretty close nine times out of ten. 

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