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Fried board.


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I have an XT10G. I don't know when because I've been having problems with my mount with various different errors which I have gotten rid of but one. I have a Both Axes No Reponse. It turns out my board is gone, one of the components has exploded. The more I learn about the dob mount the more I get worried. I've been speaking to some people and a guy said he'd heard of mounts getting stuck which cause the board to fry. I believe mine was because of a power problem. The reason I am concerned is Orion want to charge me £150/$187 for a new board. However from what I can see to find an automated mount that can hold my scope I'm looking at a thousand to several thousand. I have concerns that a new board will get fried.
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I'm not familiar with this board. However, from what I can see it looks like a supply line choke has burnt up.
I assume the adjacent 8 pole connector is for the handset? That is where the word 'synta' is printed.

If the above is correct, a likely cause is an external fault. For example a faulty lead, or faulty handset.
However, your report suggests the handset is working. Or is that no longer correct?

Until you have a more detailed idea of cause, another board may simply produce more fireworks.

What fusing or other protection arrangement do you have on the 12V supply?
How do you power the mount?

Can you provide a more detailed history of the mount problems and faults identified?

I'm sure someone with more detailed knowledge of this mount will be along shortly.

HTH, David.

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8 hours ago, Carbon Brush said:

I'm not familiar with this board. However, from what I can see it looks like a supply line choke has burnt up.
I assume the adjacent 8 pole connector is for the handset? That is where the word 'synta' is printed.

If the above is correct, a likely cause is an external fault. For example a faulty lead, or faulty handset.
However, your report suggests the handset is working. Or is that no longer correct?

Until you have a more detailed idea of cause, another board may simply produce more fireworks.

What fusing or other protection arrangement do you have on the 12V supply?
How do you power the mount?

Can you provide a more detailed history of the mount problems and faults identified?

I'm sure someone with more detailed knowledge of this mount will be along shortly.

HTH, David.

The handset works. A previous problem was the handset needed updating.  Another was a RA/Azm, which was the power. I replaced my Orion power tank battery and that went away. I have a feeling I or the tank blew the board up.
I still use the power tank as I fitted a new battery and everything works fine, the tank is a 12V. I use the cigarette port to power.

I was speaking to someone else somewhere else on the Internet and he has the same telescope and mount as me and he told me the following,
"The board was £100 (Name). I was told the chips on the board are proprietry so unless it's a cap or resistor they wont be able to fix it. I think the SkyWatcher kit is the same as Orions, made by Synta. Had you recently done a firmware update when it blew?"
"I am still gettng the same error and I bought a new hand control!! If I connect the Hand control to the main board only I get the message unable to connect to Azm, if I then connect the second motor board Both axis fail so now it looks to be a replacement Azm motor board!!!"

When I spoke to Orion they told me the both axis no response could be the handset or the board. I had someone from a local astronomy club come around and try his handset and he got the same. We took the cover off and saw what is in the picture. He since then contacted me to tell me that he had heard from someone about the following,
"
It occurs to me that it would be worth asking Orion WHY the chip had blown. I have heard of mounts where a motor jams and the circuit board then blows. It would be a waste of money to buy a new board for the same thing to happen to the new one because one of the motors is jammed or had shorted out."

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I have used Synta boards on both my previous EQ6 and present Avalon Linear mounts. What infuriates me is that, on what is an expensive board, there are no safety fuses on board to stop excessive damage occurring either for reverse polarity, over voltage or motor stalling.

Steve

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35 minutes ago, sloz1664 said:

I have used Synta boards on both my previous EQ6 and present Avalon Linear mounts. What infuriates me is that, on what is an expensive board, there are no safety fuses on board to stop excessive damage occurring either for reverse polarity, over voltage or motor stalling.

Steve

I honestly don't know what to do from here. Because £150 is a lot of money to me. However I can't afford to pay a thousand to several for a completely different mount. I don't want to pay £150 for it to instantly fry or a few months down the line something happens and then I end up with another dead board.

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How long have you had the XT10G, is it still under warranty? If so, contact the dealer and let them sort it out. If not, you will need a new board. What you need to do is put an in-line fuse between your power outlet and the XT10G. Initially use a 1 amp quick blow fuse suitable for 12v. Power the unit and check the fuse. If ok, move one of the axis. Again, if ok, move the other axis. Do the same moving both axis simultaneously and check the fuse. If the fuse blows when you initially switch it  on it  needs to be returned to the dealer who will send it to the manufacturer for analysis.  If the fuse blows on initial axis movement try a 2 amp quick blow fuse. If that blows on any initial axis movement, again it needs sending back to the supplier. If the 2 amp blows on both axis moving simultaneously you could use a 3 amp fuse. If that blows, again, return to supplier. I wouldn't go any higher than a 3 amp fuse.

Steve

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Oh wow.  Never been to this “mount” section before.  Just placed a post tonight about the fear for fried electronics and the right way to protect against these small but expensive errors.   Might as well follow this thread to see how some of you solve this risk.  

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10 hours ago, sloz1664 said:

If that blows, again, return to supplier. I wouldn't go any higher than a 3 amp fuse.

I was wondering this fuse-amp relation.  What if the voltage rise but the amps stay within the fuse maximum?

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1 hour ago, Robindonne said:

I was wondering this fuse-amp relation.  What if the voltage rise but the amps stay within the fuse maximum?

Then the Resistance has gone haywire :)

I was assuming the power to the mount would be a constant voltage, with no undue fluctuation.

Steve

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56 minutes ago, sloz1664 said:

Then the Resistance has gone haywire :)

I was assuming the power to the mount would be a constant voltage, with no undue fluctuation.

Steve

Me to.  Im not an electrician or technician. But i trust my eyes😬.  And they definitely saw a voltage peak of almost 19volt when plugging in a 12v power supply. I  Used a decent multimeter and maybe its normal to fluctuate a bit.  But 19 is a bit much i assume.   And that wont blow the fuse out if the amps didnt increase as much as the voltage did

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