My first image with the auto-guiding working

[Waldemar]

14 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Darks with uncooled DSLRs are probably bad news. Have a look at this thread 

...and maybe many others on all sorts of forums. Check out what Tony Hallas has to say. There is a tired old orthodoxy concerning darks but you won't find that the best astrophographers think much of it.

Bias and dither will kick darks off the pitch.

Olly

Hi Olly,

I can find very little information about this technique. I do not use DSLR's, but I assume this is applicable for CCD's as well?
I would appreciate some advice where I can find more info. Obviously I missed something...

Or is it just as simple as using a master bias as a master dark?

Thanks in advance,

Waldemar

[Starwiz]

22 hours ago, wimvb said:

If you have a goto mount, and don't guide, you just push the ra/dec buttons long enough for the camera to move 12 or 15 pixels. You will have to do some math, and program the intervalometer to take this time into account. My sequence was

Exp . ra+ . exp . dec+ . exp . ra- . exp . ra- . exp . dec- . exp . dec- . exp . ra+. Etc in an outward spiral.

Nowadays I have my ditherbox doing this for me.

If you use guiding, the software will probably have dithering capability built in.

I'm guiding with PHD2.  

I can see something about dithering in the advanced parameters, but can't see how to apply it yet?  

John

[wimvb]

Can't help you with this, as I don't use PHD. Is there anything about dithering under the other tabs?

BTW, I wouldn't dither in just RA, but both RA and DEC.

Also note that dithering in PHD is (probably) for the guide camera, not the imaging camera.

For a DSLR to have 12 pixels dithering, you will then have to recalculate how many pixels in the guide camera that is.

Good luck