Setting up a 414EX

[Marky1973]

I am probably missing something, but I got my 414ex today and was just installing drivers and look to see how I can fix it all together and have become stumped.

I have a M48 > t2 Converter to connect my filter wheel to the reducer and that is fine.

I was recommended at Baader T2 Extension to then connect the other side of the filter wheel to the camera - but I can't, for the life of me, see how that will work. The extension is 12-14mm, and I can get the internal T-threaded barrel into the FW and the Camera, but not with the locking wheels in place - and that just doesn't feel safe - not to mention that it doesn't make it to the requisite 56mm. Am I missing something here? Can someone explain how they connected their camera with a similar set-up please? Or am I missing another connector of some description.  I feel that there should be another t-threaded "inner" barrel to connect the extension to camera - otherwise there isn't enough thread/distance to connect it all up.

Hoping that is the case as I didn't put enough boot polish on the thread and I now can't get one end out of the camera.

It's not a major issue, I just wanted to get it all ready to use asap, as I know there will be loads of clear skies this week.

[Scott]

I have the same camera with a manual filter wheel. Personaly I have fitted the camera directly to the filter wheel. the chip is 13mm back from the front of the camera and the filter wheel is 20mm (from memory). this leave you with 22-23mm from the filterwheel to the glass of your ff/fr......good luck

[Uranium235]

From camera to scope its generally: (if its 1.25" filters in a T2 FW)

Camera > Male/Male T2 > FW > T2 male to M48 female > reducer/flattener > telescope

This is where it helps to have a few spare T2 extension rings (5, 10 and 15mm), plus a few delrin spacers to fine-tune it.

 

PS: you should have got the male/male adaptor with the filter wheel, they always come with them.

[Marky1973]

Cheers both. Yeah need a male to male adapter - makes sense that a male thread from the filter wheel would work - but I don't have that with the FW - just a nose-piece and 1.24" eyepiece holder that screw into the FW. So I guess I now need to get hold of a male to make adapter of some form.

:-)

 

[Tinker1947]

I use a Baader Vari-Lock CCD attaches to the filter wheel then the vari-lock on the other side, in my case a Coma corrector.........

[Marky1973]

Thanks everyone - fiddling again this morning I have come up with this -

 

I was tired last night and really didn't have the extension in the right plcae - I do now, although I am still left with the problem that the Atik has a female thread and the back of the FW also has a female thread - so i need a male to male t2 adapter to fit between them...something like this:

http://agenaastro.com/blue-fireball-gender-changer-g-tm.html

I'm going to contact FLO and a few other places, but they don't seem readily available in the UK, so if anyone knows where I can get one, please let me know!

The distance from the back of the reducer to the far side of the FW in the picture above is c. 42mm, so with 13mm for the Atik I only have 1 or 2 mm to play with, so it will need to be like the linked adapter, which adds little to the optical distance.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Marky1973]

Hi All

Managed to stick it all together and, alas, it is not quite right.....

If it is 13mm to the sensor from the edge of the Camera, the total distance from the sensor to the back edge of the Reducer is 60/61mm. I can get it down to 58mm, by removing half of the Baader extension, but that takes one of the locking rings out of the equation.

My understanding is that it should be 56/57mm.

Is it worth trying it "as is", or is the 56/57 really that crucial?

 

[Tinker1947]

Reducers do work a bit under the required distance but not over the required distance, try it and see is the best way to find out.....

[Marky1973]

Thanks Tinker - I have ordered another extension and some spacers - I WILL get this to work and, at the very least, I should be well stocked for adapters in case of any future projects!

[Tinker1947]

If you check out the Baader Vari-Locks there's 2 a short adjust and a long type i use the short with out the filter wheel and the long with it there adjustable if either of there distances suit your set-up....

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-varilock-46-lockable-t-2-extension-tube.html

 

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-varilock-29-lockable-t-2-extension-tube.html

[Marky1973]

Thanks Tinker, I did look at those, but they are a bit big - I needed to fill a gap of 12mm, so got an adjustable Baader extension that covers 12-16mm - butt hen the adapter for the filter wheel was deeper than I thought, meaning the whole thing was too long. I can take the locking wheel of the adpater for the filter wheel, but they it goes too far into the filter wheel and impacts the filters, or not far enough into the camera - so the overall length is largely the same - got some spacers and a 7.5mm extension coming which should let me get down from 61mm (which it is currently) to 56.5, with some spacers to fine tune if I need to remove the FW adapater locking wheel! 

Phew!

And I thought it was going to be easy! :-)

[ollypenrice]

Never add distance by putting spacers between the FW and the camera. If you think of the light cone you'll see that this is a recipe for adding vignetting. The distance must be added between the FW and the reducer.

Olly

[Marky1973]

Thanks Olly. The male>male adapter on the filter wheel adds a few mm, but I presume that is okay as long as everything else is on the other side?

[ollypenrice]

34 minutes ago, Marky1973 said:

Thanks Olly. The male>male adapter on the filter wheel adds a few mm, but I presume that is okay as long as everything else is on the other side?

It will be OK with small chips and/or slow F ratios but when you are in the resverse situation, a fast F ratio and a large chip, it becomes important to get the filter close to the chip to avoid vignetting. You should be fine.

Olly

[Marky1973]

Cheers Olly, if I get this to work and fall in love with Mono imaging then I will no doubt eventually upgrade to a "better" filterwheel with a lower profile - I just need to cut my teeth on something that "works" the start with! :-)

Was looking forward to a clear night tonight to at least get familiar with ARTEMIS and maybe even see if I could get it guiding but alas....clouds....