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Dark sky backgrounds on different monitors


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One big problem I have when processing my deep sky images is trying to make the (almost) black background show up consistently between different monitors. I have two at home, one old and one nice new one. I do the main processing on the new monitor and can make the background look nice and clean and galaxies have lovely, soft edges. If I look at the same image on the other monitor the noise shows up much more clearly or the soft edges on the galaxies suddenly are harsh and solid. If I try at a monitor at work I get something inbetween but it can still look much worse than the original.

I'm guessing this is because different monitors have different responses to dark greys but I've noticed that many other people's images seem to show much more consistently between all my different monitors. It makes me paranoid about uploading images for people to look at as I worry that it will look completely different on everyone elses screen!

Does anyone have any suggestions about how to get round this issue?

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Marc, I'm really sorry I don't... I have a similar problem with my Mac that I do my processing on... it's very very bright, and that means, whilst things can show up nicely on there, the faint stuff often doesn't show up anywhere near as well when I view them on a PC... it's always a challenge. I use control points in PS during processing to help ensure I get a similar level on the backgrounds and help avoid blowing out the stars, but that doesn't mean the results will look the same. 

I've calibrated my Mac monitor, but that doesn't really help in this case.

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Modern monitors often have a series of preset modes (PC, game, movie, etc.) It might be worth experimenting with those to see which give the most consistent views between your two monitors.

Otherwise, calibrating the monitors is the "professional" approach. If you have the options, look at the GAMMA settings as these often affect the response to dim/dark parts of images.

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Thank you for the replies.

I have used a colour sampled 'control point' but my black point is normally set at about 15-20, so I'll try with some higher values to see if it makes a difference. Was concerned I'd lose some dynamic range but is probably worth it to gain a smoother result.

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  • 2 months later...

Look online for a "Greyscale" image.

This is a monochrome  "staircase" with 8 or more steps, with levels running from black to peak white.

By displaying this on your various monitors you can calibrate those monitor's colour balance, brightness, contrast, and gamma, to match each other.

I use PaintShop Pro and that has its own calibration too.

After that use the 'eyedropper' tool to sample black parts of your image, and then set the rgb black levels so that samples are equal i.e. monchrome, and as dark as now looks right, as Olly has so rightly said.

Michael

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With a few exceptions, such as R Jay GaBany, the most experienced and most published imagers avoid a very dark sky. I used to use a value of around 19 but I've come to feel that it looks pretty un-natural because the sky isn't all that dark, especially at a dark site. This may sound odd but Acey, I think, discussed this in a thread and at a dark site you can, when adapted, see quite well without a lamp. In the scheme of things losing four points of dynamic range isn't a game breaker. When preparing an image for printing I lift the lower part of the curve to give a value of about 26. Printing seems to clip pretty harshly.

Olly

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Getting the sky background right can be tricky. As Olly suggests it definitely shouldn't be black as it looks quite unnatural. I personally aim for a dark, neutral a grey possible (maybe just erring on the blue side- but that's just personal taste)

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Getting the sky background right can be tricky. As Olly suggests it definitely shouldn't be black as it looks quite unnatural. I personally aim for a dark, neutral a grey possible (maybe just erring on the blue side- but that's just personal taste)

Yes, quite a few people go for a blue slant.

Olly

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