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Suggestions for travel case for CPC800


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Hi SGL members.

I've recently upgraded my first scope to a CPC800 and while I'm waiting for the sky to clear and the nights to darken I'm also planning on attending some local star gazing parties.

I therefore need a secure way of transporting the new scope and would ask for any suggestions or known product links to review.

Thanks in advance,

Paul.

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TS have a selection of cases and bags however they tend to be for a tube only, the CPC having a not insignificant mount.

I would susepect that a "homemade" item is the best, as in look round for a suitable trolly bag and add dense foam to take the CPC. You would need a few layers - one fairly dense to protect the scope from the frame, then others to get the "shape" to accept the scope and hold it firmly. It will not be a 20 minute job. And I don't know of anyone that would offer a foam cutting and fitting service.

Check out the TS  offerings, there may be one for the CPC for all I know, the Gepac (Red) ones look the best.

TS Page: TSBags

Bag for: SCT8

Looks big if you see the picture of the person with one on his back.

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Many thanks for the reply Ronin.

I agree, it's looking like it may be a home made offering, and I do have a bit of experience with wood work so I'm sure I could build a sturdy enough case and then just source good quality foam.

Sounds like a project to get started on. I'll try and remember to document my approach should other CPC owners be interested in replicating the results.

Paul.

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I use a big Really Useful Box for my 8SE (without the mount), I believe there is at least one size larger than the one I have so that could be a starting point, add in the original polystyrene from the scope shipping box (glue it down if you like), shouldn't take too much effort.

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Hi, I made this for my Tak TSA102.post-11141-0-38829900-1407017532_thumb.jpost-11141-0-29665200-1407017562_thumb.j

Material was 9mm ply and foam was from easy foam. Size 750x300x250mm, I ordered the foam as 5 layers 50mm thick, one for the top and bottom, the other 3 layers I cut to fit the scope, all the fittings Were obtained from e-bay. Hope this helps

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Thanks Jonathan.

I was actually looking at the original foam this morning in the garage and measuring up the size of the box required.

Herbigs box looks great. Very well finished with the corner protectors, latches and sturdy looking handle. I'm definitely leaning towards something home made.

Thanks for the link Ronan46. At almost 600 quid that's probably more than I'd want to spend on a box for the scope even though it's specifically made for the CPC800. I'm not sure about the wheels though as I suspect that bumps when transporting might not a help with maintaining collimation. Any thoughts?

Paul.

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Lemzo, if you want further details on the fittings I used and construction method I be happy to supply them.

The total cost of the materials was about £80, not including the paint, which I already had, and the decals which I made whilst making signs for our Astro Fair at the NLO next week.

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That would be great Herbig.

Can I ask what weight your scope is as I'm considering making my case from 18mm Marine ply as I'm not sure the 9mm would be sturdy enough.

Paul.

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Thanks Jonathan.

I was actually looking at the original foam this morning in the garage and measuring up the size of the box required.

Herbigs box looks great. Very well finished with the corner protectors, latches and sturdy looking handle. I'm definitely leaning towards something home made.

Thanks for the link Ronan46. At almost 600 quid that's probably more than I'd want to spend on a box for the scope even though it's specifically made for the CPC800. I'm not sure about the wheels though as I suspect that bumps when transporting might not a help with maintaining collimation. Any thoughts?

Paul.

I didn't seriously think that you would want to spend 600 quid for a case but I thought I would put the link up in case you found the dimensions useful. I have a c5  that gets a little knocked about and never needs collimating so they are quite sturdy but With a cpc you may find wheels useful as they are heavy maybe some pneumatic golf trolley wheels

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Thanks Ronan46, looking at other members of the forum and the money they have spent on this hobby can be frightening! I'm sure some would happily spend that money on a case but I couldn't justify it.

I have actually taken note of the dimensions to give me a starting place for my own design.

Paul.

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I agree on the wheels - if you can add a bit of suspension even if it's just air in tyres it will help, might also consider internal suspension - certain styrene packing materials have a tough but squashy consistency.  Wheels are good though, helps your poor back!

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Lemzo, if you use 18mm ply it will be incredibly heavy. I made a similar box for my NEQ6 using 12mm, plenty strong enough though, but I can hardly lift it!

Right, construction method - make the box as one, cut all the pieces carefully using a table saw if you have one, if you get the ply from B&Q they will cut it for you but beware they have a 5mm tolerance which is not so good if they get it wrong.

Glue all the bits together and pin. Picture frame clamps are useful here as they help keep every thing square. Leave over night to go off. Here's mine before I cut the lid.

post-11141-0-61955700-1407183018_thumb.j

Work out how deep you want the lid to be and set this up on your table saw and cut all 4 sides, if no table saw you will need to do this by hand but the end result won't be as good. Using this technique ensures that the lid and the base fit together perfectly. Punch all the pins below the surface and fill all imperfection and sand. It's a good idea not to put pins where you are going to cut the lid!

Next paint the colour of your choice. You can varnish it but your joinery has to be near perfect to look good. Then add your fittings, I got all my fittings from e-bay, just search on flight case corners etc. I've found it's best to use 'strut hinges' these are what they use on flight cases and get some plastic not rubber feet, I used 8, 4for the bottom and 4 the side opposite the handle.

post-11141-0-11346200-1407184237_thumb.j

I used ' prong tees' and stainless bolts to fix the feet and most of the other bits were bolted on as 9mm did not have enough thickness to take screws, 12mm is OK though. Had to use screws for the corners though.

Add your foam and your done. I ordered 5layers of 50mm thick foam, one for the top and bottom and then cut the other 3 layers to suit. I made my lid the same depth as one of my layers of foam. Use spray upholstery adhesive to glue the layers of foam together. I found it was not necessary to glue the foam in place, just order it a couple of mil over size.

Hope this is OK?

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That's perfect Herbig! Thanks for taking the to put this up.

I was concerned about the weight of the 18mm with the scope inside so I'll plan yo make it from the 12mm. Not sure I would trust the CPC800 in a 9mm case as I intend to keep it in the mount and store it as one piece.

I do have a table saw so I'll uptake your advice regarding cutting the lid.

Thanks again for all the info. I'll make sure I grab some pics when I come to make mine.

Paul.

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No problem Paul. You may have to remove any cover over the blade on the saw. The cover is there for a purpose so please take extra care when doing this!

It's best to lower the blade to reduce the depth of cut too, otherwise if the

box is not perfectly square the cut at the joints goes a little wrong, before cutting put some marks on it so you know which way round iy goes. I used a small plane to just clean up the edges , don't take too much off or you'll have gaps.

Here's my NEQ6 box.

post-11141-0-51510900-1407227200_thumb.j

post-11141-0-94579100-1407227231_thumb.j

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That box looks great Herbig.

Thanks for the safety tips on the table saw, unfortunately I made that mistake 7 years ago making a cot for my son from White Oak. I was making mortise and tenon joints and managed to catch a finger! 'Luckily' it ripped up the way and not across so I suppose I got away relatively lightly....

Lesson learned and all that.

Paul.

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Mine was through the knuckle of my first finger, as you say, not very nice.

Forgot to say, I used brass pins on this one, used ordinary steel ones on the first one which rusted very quickly just from the water based paint I used.

Ply is very strong and if you wanted to you could always reinforce the joints with batten also if you get large corner protectors this will help also, don't forget these things get shipped from China in cardboard boxes and most flight cases are only thin ply or even hardboard behind the thin Ali exterior.

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