Hyperstar/non-hyperstar camera?

[digitaltre515]

Hi, all. I've been looking at getting a hyperstar lens and CCD to upgrade from using my DSLR with my C8 and wondered if anybody had a take on what camera may be best to use for both hyperstar and non-hyperstar applications. I'm trying to stay around $1,300 or lower, and my initial thought was an ATIK 420.

Also, does anybody have any experience using filters with a hyperstar setup? I'd like to eventually get into narrowband imaging (so a monochrome camera is what I've been looking at) but can't seem to find much in the way of reports of people using filters or doing similar imaging with a hyperstar setup. It always seems tone one-shot color cameras being used. Any insight and advice is welcome!

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[JamesF]

I think the reason people tend to use OSC cameras with a hyperstar setup is because you have to remove the camera to switch filters which messes up framing.

James

[riklaunim]

QHY8L is color, with big sensor and hyperstar-friendly in size. That's why it's popular. Mono cameras are also used, especially if you want narrowband. Filter can be changed easily using a filter drawer. Some hyperstar users say that color cams are harder to use (more work with flats/gradients).

[Nickwatcher]

I have a C8 with hyperstar and qhy8l. Bought hyperstar and the camera used a few months ago. Still haven't had a chance to use it because if schedule and clouds. One of these days maybe

-Nick

[jmelquist]

Hey Mark,

I just ordered a Hyperstar setup to use with my C8 and ATIK320e. I asked Dean about filters and he said they are starting mfr of a drawer system in the coming weeks. I really like the 320e camera, and will likely be upgrading to the 420 as soon as I can. Let me know what you decide and how it works out. I had a hacked together C8 f/3.3 setup about a year ago and it was awesome to see how deep I could go - unfortunately, coma was unacceptable. I hope to get the best of both worlds!

[pete_l]

When you use a Hyperstar your telescope has a very small focal ratio - around 2. Small F/R's mean that focus is critical as the light cone converges very quickly. So the "sweet spot" of optimal focus is very small.

That means you'll have to use parfocal filters, but even they aren't exactly parfocal. I've noticed with some of mine that I do have to tweak focus occasionally when using them in my filter wheel. In a Hyperstar system the "not-quite parfocal" effect will be magnified.

[ollypenrice]

Greek Anthony, who has not, alas, been much in evidence here recently, used to post utterly world class Hyperstar narrowband images. NB has faint signal so the fast F ratio plays superbly well. As stated above, you really need to get yourself an electonic focuser since finding the microns deep focal plane by twiddling a manual focuser is not likely to give results.

Olly

Edit; Personally I'd go for the Atik. Reliable cameras with reliable, friendly software. Yes, I'm biased, but I'm biased by good experiences with mine. (We have five here.)

[Mike Hawtin]

Mark,

I have a C6 HyperStar and use an Atik 428EX mono with Baader 7nm NB filters and I have no issues with focusing or the filters at F/1.9. I have fitted a circular plastic protractor to my focus knob and can easily make very fine adjustments by hand. Collimation however is a different story, lots of patience is required. Take a look at my latest attempt here taken through a hazy sky at 35 to 60 degrees elevation: http://www.astrobin.com/13968/

[Alfredo Beltran]

Hi Mike

I'm very interested in going through the hyperstar route with a mono camera as you with my C6.

What are the issues with collimation you have experienced? I'd also like to know if it's possible to get the camera to the same position after changing manually the filters, or if this is an issue also.

Thanks for your help

Alfredo