Pentax KX

[Bondred]

I really don't know a lot about photography, reading some of the threads on here is akin to reading ancient sanskrit.

I am however very willing to learn. Does this camera have all the functions required to take good images of the moon and planets?

[g0ibi]

I use mine and get some good results, a 'T' adapter is all you need!

[Bondred]

I use mine and get some good results, a 'T' adapter is all you need!

How do you find using it attached to the scope? I haven't managed to find a way to use the digital screen as a viewfinder yet, how do you view the object when it is connected to the scope?

[LukeSkywatcher]

This camera does have Live View, so viewing,focusing objects while its attached to the scope is doable. You may have to read the manual to see if the correct settings are enabled for Live View.

This may help:

http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/KX/KXLIVEVIEW.HTM

[Bondred]

This camera does have Live View, so viewing,focusing objects while its attached to the scope is doable. You may have to read the manual to see if the correct settings are enabled for Live View.

This may help:

Pentax K-x Camera Liveview - Full Review

Thank you for that, very helpful.

When I buy a T-adapter, does that come with everything I need, or do I need to buy another part for the camera?

Sorry for all the questions but I really am a novice.

[LukeSkywatcher]

When i bought my t-ring/adapter for my camera i had to buy 2 separate parts: The t-ring itself and a nose piece(t adapter). The t-ring screws onto the camera where the lens would go and the nose piece(t adapter) screws onto the t-ring and the whole thing is inserted into the scope. I am not sure but depending on what make you buy, it might be sold as one solid part or both parts together for one price.

This is essentially what both parts look like when assembled (image taken from FLO website featuring a CCD adapter rather then DSLR)

[LukeSkywatcher]

To give you a better idea of the parts needed to mount a dslr onto a telescope here are the 2 parts you need:

I hope this makes things clearer.

Paul

P.S.~~~you dont need to buy a Canon t-ring. Any make will do once it fits your camera and is compatible in size to your scope (i.e.~~~1.25" or 2" focuser)

[Bondred]

Ok, my T-mounts and adapters turned up today, now I am stumped, I guess I am just being thick.

It seemed so easy, take the lens off of the camera, insert T-mount, insert mount into adapter, insert adapter into scope, then take photo's!

so why doesn't it work? I can't see anything through Live view, the camera just does not work without the lens in it, even in a normal environment.

I found the moon this evening, took out my EP and inserted the camera adapter but all it was a was a white blur.

Excuse me for being rather dim, but what am I doing wrong?

[Bondred]

Sorry to be a pain, but does anyone have any advice? I would like to try again tonight while the clear skies are still there!

Thank you

[Bondred]

Any help would be great, still really struggling with this.

Thank you

[JimStan]

If you are seeing a "white blur", you are at least getting light into the camera. Next, you have to make sure that the telescope is focusing that light on the camera sensor. It is far easier to use the viewfinder rather than "live view" since that should let you see exactly what the camera is seeing from the telescope without having to adjust any switches, etc. to get it to the "live view" portion of the camera !

As I said, a white blur indicates that light is, indeed, getting to the sensor, which is a good thing. Does racking the focus in and out make that blur get more distinct, or more diffuse? You may need an additional ring to extend the camera further back from the point that it is currently located. Which brings up a few questions.

You have not told us what kind of scope you are trying to marry to that camera. Is it a Newt, SC , Dob, or what? They are all going to have different issues, and it gets more and more difficult to answer your question with you providing us with some basic information about your kit.

Sorry, that's all I can do for now.

Jim S.

[Bondred]

If you are seeing a "white blur", you are at least getting light into the camera. Next, you have to make sure that the telescope is focusing that light on the camera sensor. It is far easier to use the viewfinder rather than "live view" since that should let you see exactly what the camera is seeing from the telescope without having to adjust any switches, etc. to get it to the "live view" portion of the camera !

As I said, a white blur indicates that light is, indeed, getting to the sensor, which is a good thing. Does racking the focus in and out make that blur get more distinct, or more diffuse? You may need an additional ring to extend the camera further back from the point that it is currently located. Which brings up a few questions.

You have not told us what kind of scope you are trying to marry to that camera. Is it a Newt, SC , Dob, or what? They are all going to have different issues, and it gets more and more difficult to answer your question with you providing us with some basic information about your kit.

Sorry, that's all I can do for now.

Jim S.

Thanks JimStan, sorry for the limit kit, I put it all in my signature and thought people would get it from that.

I am mounting a Pentax KX to a Celestron Astromaster 130EQ-MD.

I went out tonight to try and get it working again, the moon is non-existent at the moment so I had to try and work on the next biggest thing in the sky, Jupiter!

tonight was different though, when I connected the T-Ring to the camera and turned the camera on I got a message saying "input focal length", I have never had this message before, and it ranged from 1 to 800, not having a clue what this meant I stuck in the middle at 400 and off I set to find Jupiter.

I managed to find it through the use of EP's first, then carefully put the camera into the x2 barlow, and hey presto, Jupiter was in Live View. I took a few snaps and left it at that.

The pictures were awful and resembled a multicoloured blob on the screen, but I didn't expect anything else.

I still need to learn how to use the camera properly and what ISO settings to use, and also how to manually change the exposure length.

One other problem I have, I cannot let go of the camera once it is inserted into the scope, if I let go it just pulls the scope down, I don't know if this is a set up fault with the scope on my part, or if the camera is just too heavy for the scope.

Many thanks.

[SplintUK]

The problem is that your optical tube is optimised for visual work, the focuser isn't letting you move the camera in far enough to achieve focus at prime focus with no Barlow. The Barlow will let you get started though.

The 2 other things you new to buy are a bahtinov mask, and a cheapy infrared remote (via hong king on eBay for about £3, but expect a wait). The mask will allow you to focus more accurately than by eye, the remote will allow you to operate the camera shutter without introducing a vibration through the telescope. Pressing the shutter button will always screw up your shot, and you can't use a wire based shutter release on a K-x.