Motor / Camera attachment for Skywatcher Explorer 150PL (EQ3-2)

[Dave R Smith]

Skywatcher Explorer 150PL (EQ3-2)

I am a newcomer shortlisting my first telescope as above (possibly second hand).

Once purchased, I wouldwish to attach my Canon EOS 350D, for which I need a motor to track.

1. Motor Drives.

Is the Skywatcher own dual axis version reccomended (or possibly a third party m/f version), and how long do batteries last?

Is there a connection to use a mains transformer instead?

2. To attach camera.

As well as a T2 mount, I assume I need something else to connect the T-mount to the optic, do i need a tube as well?

This advert references 'direct slr connection' but size of optic diameter looks small compared to T mount diameter.

Are these camera mounts easy to release for normal (e.g. half twist like slr lens) for normal viewing by eye before putting back on, or does that require another accessory?

Thank-you in anticipation.

Dave.

[aGreyarea]

Hi,

If you can get to a shop to have a look before you buy then I would. I used to have the Celestron Omni 150, nearly identical. It had a male t thread on the focusser so you screw the canon t adapter on to the focusser, then click and lock the camera on to the t adapter like a lens. Easy.

My problem came, when I realised that to get an exposure over thirty seconds, I needed a light pollution filter, fine. Except that when I put a 1.25" to t on the front of the t adapter ( to screw the filter to) it added enough to the focal length that the focusser wouldn't rack in enough to come to a focus.

EDIT

My mistake, the 150pl is the long focus version, mine was f/5, so I don't know if you might have the same trouble as I did with the focusser!

I don't know what the focusser on the SW is like but compare it to the Omni 150XLT and, if it looks the same get a slim line t adapter, mine was about 10mm thick, too thick basically.

As for the motors, I've read that the SW ones are quieter than Cestrons CG5GT.

Hope that helps and good luck with the imaging!

[Dave R Smith]

Thank-you AGreyarea.

I visited a specialist retailer 2 weeks ago (2 hours round trip) but disappointed that you don't get to test them, so just as well to buy on line.

Point noted on filter - I need to check travel length of optic to permit filters.

Yes, 'L' suffix is for 1200mm, but I may end up with shorter version if going for 2nd hand.

I heard from others (unspecified scope/mount) of motor struggling to turn (possibly bad balance/set-up of mount) and batteries quickly depleting, so thought transformer would be better for garden use.

In asking what seem basic questions of some retailers, I get the impression they don't know and they use words like 'should' so it doesn't fill you with confidence.

I therefore appreciate your hands on feedback.

Cheers.

Dave.

[aGreyarea]

Hi Dave,

Your right about the advice from most retailers. Obviously FLO sponsor this site but I haven't got around to using them yet. But the most knowledgeable person I found was the guy at Green Witch, he actually knew that the new Baader UHCS L-booster rejects UV and the old one doesn't. No one else knew that.

Check the retailers feedback section.

Re the motors, if I had known before, I would have just bought the standard dual axis kit, got a mains adapter from maplin and done the Shoestring Astromomy controller mod to use them with EQMOD. instead I got the SW Synscan upgrade kit, seems to carry 12kgs fine.

Good luck.

[garethmob]

iv got the synscan eq3-2 and i use a car powerpack (maplins aldi's and lidl's sell them quite cheaply) seems to last a few nights

[Dai150PL]

Hi Dave, the EQ3-2 just about manages the 150PL. If you want to attach a DSLR then I would recommend you get a bigger mount. I find if fine for a webcam but struggles with the extra weight of my digital camera. I use 2500mah energizer recharge batteries and they last ages.

[Dave R Smith]

Thank-you aGreyarea and garethmob.

If power is lost to motor (batteries die and no alternative feed) can hand controls still be used without straining components, or does the motor place a high resistance to hand cranking... or maybe the motor can easily be disengaged?

[garethmob]

it should have cluch's that engage and disengage the motors, u can push it around then on both axes and when u wanna hold it just engage the clutch im not sure if u can use the slowmo controls though with gears attached

[Dave R Smith]

Hi Dave, the EQ3-2 just about manages the 150PL. If you want to attach a DSLR then I would recommend you get a bigger mount. I find if fine for a webcam but struggles with the extra weight of my digital camera. I use 2500mah energizer recharge batteries and they last ages.

That's a co-incidence your name is the same as my aspired telescope!

I've translated your jargon on the mount, In English, this means I need a bigger budget. I have been warned by others on this board recently that the hobby is a wallet burner.

Joking aside, I heed what you say.

When you say 'struggle', does that mean tracking doesn't quite track?

I assume the larger mount itself doesn't make the difference, having the same weight to turn but it would be a larger motor that goes with that mount that makes the difference?

Looking at this link,

Sky-Watcher Single and Dual-Axis D.C. Motor Drives for EQ-3 - 2, EQ5

price for EQ3 and EQ5 variant is same, so would have guessed motor is same size/power?

Dave.

[Dave R Smith]

it should have cluch's that engage and disengage the motors, u can push it around then on both axes and when u wanna hold it just engage the clutch im not sure if u can use the slowmo controls though with gears attached

Thank-you Garethmob

[brantuk]

I'd put this tube on an EQ5 or CG5 (preferred) - the motors are interchangeable between the two mounts. It's a sturdier platform all together and very cheap to buy - you can get them in great condition s/h for just over £100. Upgrade with new motors for £95 ish retail.

The motors disengage very easily - you just losen the knurled locking thumb screws on each axis and the drive cog comes off allowing the manual slo mo controls to work. The noise you mention only applies to the CG5 GT Goto - those motors are inside "echo'ey" casings and slewing is loud. The motor upgrade however is comparatively silent.

The 350D needs a T-ring. The 1.25"-2" adaptor on the scope can be unscrewed leaving a T-thread onto which the T-ring fits. The 150PL is great for imaging planets and moon but use a webcam for that. The dslr is more appropriate for dso's - you can get maybe 2-3 mins if properly polar aligned. A polar scope is recommended for that. But I'd forget the EQ3-2 if you want reasonable results on dso's - more suitable for observing with lighter ota's.

Hope that helps

[Dave R Smith]

I'd put this tube on an EQ5 or CG5 (preferred) - the motors are interchangeable between the two mounts. It's a sturdier platform all together and very cheap to buy - you can get them in great condition s/h for just over £100. Upgrade with new motors for £95 ish retail.

The motors disengage very easily - you just losen the knurled locking thumb screws on each axis and the drive cog comes off allowing the manual slo mo controls to work. The noise you mention only applies to the CG5 GT Goto - those motors are inside "echo'ey" casings and slewing is loud. The motor upgrade however is comparatively silent.

The 350D needs a T-ring. The 1.25"-2" adaptor on the scope can be unscrewed leaving a T-thread onto which the T-ring fits. The 150PL is great for imaging planets and moon but use a webcam for that. The dslr is more appropriate for dso's - you can get maybe 2-3 mins if properly polar aligned. A polar scope is recommended for that. But I'd forget the EQ3-2 if you want reasonable results on dso's - more suitable for observing with lighter ota's.

Hope that helps

Thank-you Brantuk.

All read and understood.

Having read some more on 'lengths' (So you want to buy a telescope ? - Part 1) as a beginner, I'm thinking maybe the 1000mm version rather than the 1250mm as:

-That would be 'faster'.

- Lower weight (requiring smaller counterbalance), as I sometimes get back problems.

Would your advice on EQ5 change for the skywatcher explorer 150 1000mm version (not the 1250/'L') be the same?

[aGreyarea]

Brantuk is right, you're always better off with the eq5. The motor equipment is different, make sure you order the right one, but the same price.

Also recommend shorter focal length if you have back problems, but again, depends on what youre interested on seeing.

[Dave R Smith]

.. depends on what youre interested on seeing.

Thank-you agreyarea.

I know from other technical pursuits, 'use' is key in equipment choice, but as a beginner I will be casting my net wide.

If I buy too small, I may be disappointed, especially in contrast to TV astronomy, but don't want to go mad on budget while putting toe in water, so reckoned second-hand would give the best compromise.

I'm an old hand at (general) photography and video production, so I do know this will be a key aspect, but again, if I get mediocre results it may detract from the hobby.

[aGreyarea]

The key then really, and I hope this isn't teaching you to suck eggs, is to be try achieve the best with your kit and be happy with that.

The problem is, the best pictures come from the best kit, so don't be to tough on your first efforts. Astro photography, and even the processing, are different enough from what you may be used to, that you may feel like you're starting from scratch.

I tried some kit (the Omni 150XLT) and through learning to use it and finding out it's capabilities, was able to more clearly identify what I wanted to achieve.

I'm still working towards getting it all!! But having fun along the way.

Be prepared for trial and error!

[Dave R Smith]

The key then really, and I hope this isn't teaching you to suck eggs, is to be try achieve the best with your kit and be happy with that.

The problem is, the best pictures come from the best kit, so don't be to tough on your first efforts. Astro photography, and even the processing, are different enough from what you may be used to, that you may feel like you're starting from scratch.

I tried some kit (the Omni 150XLT) and through learning to use it and finding out it's capabilities, was able to more clearly identify what I wanted to achieve.

I'm still working towards getting it all!! But having fun along the way.

Be prepared for trial and error!

I think you're right, I wouldn't be surprised if someone like confucius or master to grasshopper said something like:

'It is not the destination that is important, it is the journey and what you discover on the way.'

Yesterday 'Shedheads' came on TV while reading here about Gina and friends with various sheds/observatories, so can see this hobby can easily become a vortex, emotionally and financially.

[brantuk]

"Would your advice on EQ5 change for the skywatcher explorer 150 1000mm version (not the 1250/'L') be the same?"

My advice would be the same. For observing only the EQ3-2 is fine with the 150P - it just takes a few seconds longer to stop shaking. But the heavier more solid EQ5/CG5's (though not the best) are far more appropriate for imaging stability - very important for long exposure.

My preference is the CG5 cos it has 2" diameter tripod legs (as opposed to 1.75" on the EQ5) and it will take the 150P or 150PL adequately. It will also give you flexibility for changing ota's (the EQ3-2 is very limited weight wise) and is upgradeable to goto if that ever floats your boat (the software is more sophisticated than the SW offering).

I consider it a good ,basic, poor mans, starter imaging rig - which is probably why it's so popular and definitely why I have one lol

[Dave R Smith]

"Would your advice on EQ5 change for the skywatcher explorer 150 1000mm version (not the 1250/'L') be the same?"

My advice would be the same. For observing only the EQ3-2 is fine with the 150P - it just takes a few seconds longer to stop shaking. But the heavier more solid EQ5/CG5's (though not the best) are far more appropriate for imaging stability - very important for long exposure.

My preference is the CG5 cos it has 2" diameter tripod legs (as opposed to 1.75" on the EQ5) and it will take the 150P or 150PL adequately. It will also give you flexibility for changing ota's (the EQ3-2 is very limited weight wise) and is upgradeable to goto if that ever floats your boat (the software is more sophisticated than the SW offering).

I consider it a good ,basic, poor mans, starter imaging rig - which is probably why it's so popular and definitely why I have one lol

Thank-you Brantuk, advice noted.

On Goto, I'd rather use the budget on better image quality.