bosun21

It means that the motor controller boards aren't responding. Check that you have the correct power supply of 12v and 2.5A as low power input can cause this error. Also check all your connections and cables are tight and secure. This can be a costly error and is fairly common with AVX mounts.

The reason that the secondary is the same size in the 300PDS as it is in the 250PDS is due to its longer focal length. 1500mm as opposed to 1200mm. The extra focal length allows the light cone to be narrower. The only reason I would maybe lean towards the OO is for the 1/10th wave mirror and if weight saving is an issue. Some people have experienced flexure with the larger aluminium tubes of the OO. Coma correctors for visual are subjective. Some folk hate any edge of field distortion whereas some folk don't mind too much as they mainly observe on axis. For myself F5 and below benefit from a CC.

I have the SW 10" go to dobsonian which is very good for planetary imaging in my opinion. There are several very good planetary imagers on the forum that use these scopes of varying sizes. The reason that the secondary is larger on the SW PDS and Flextube dobsonians as opposed to the OO is to allow for a camera to reach focus easily without the need for a barlow etc. Visually they are also very good, and the PDS with a coma corrector fitted makes a competent AP scope. I was actually thinking of getting an OO tube to mount on my AZ-EQ6 but the fact that I already have a new 10" go to dobsonian renders this a mute point.

Whilst astro landscaping was never my forte, this didn't stop me from reading and watching his videos with admiration. His passion and knowledge base was truly captivating. RIP Alyn Wallace.

Completely finished with the focuser changeover now. I have taped the redundant fixing holes and used black foam to completely eradicate any light ingress. What was initially frustrating at the start with nothing whatsoever lining up as they miraculously seem to do on the YouTube videos. I'm pleased as punch with the final outcome.

Very nice images Paul 👍.

A very warm welcome to SGL Jessilee 👋. We are generally a very friendly and helpful bunch.

Three years! And you still haven't decided. If I were you I would narrow it down to the serious contenders, then list their pros and cons. Any reviews you read for the said telescopes try and ensure that they are from experienced observers. Even on this forum while I read every comment on equipment purchase and observing results etc, I only ingest and allow myself to be guided by those comments coming from experienced members whose many years at the eyepiece with different scopes forms the basis of their knowledge. I'll say it once again. If you can allow for the cool down time of an 180mm Maksutov then you will have the closest to apo refractor performance in my experience. They are sharper both for visual and planetary imaging than an SCT. They are also good for doubles. They are also compact and easy to transport. The other choice you mention is the ED120 or the SM125. Buying new then the 125 would be my choice simply for the extra 5mm aperture and the better 2.5" R&P focuser fitted as standard. When I'm personally deciding on buying a new telescope it's on the particular model I'm purchasing, as I have decided on scope design and manufacturer some time prior. I also am a planetary enthusiast and have viewed and imaged the planets with refractors (both apo & achro), reflectors, SCT's as well as Maksutovs. The best views were from my 4" apo refractor with lovely colours and sharpness all round. The Maksutovs (once cooled) were snapping at the heels of the refractors along with the Newtonians. Slightly behind the Newts came the SCT's solely due to the views being softer. As you increase aperture the playing field changes in my opinion. Ideally we would just want to increase the size of our apo refractor scope but cost throws a proverbial spanner in the works. For planetary imaging then it's all about resolution to tease out the details on the planets surface which means aperture basically. For this reason it's large Newts and SCT's that are the scopes of choice. As you are already aware the seeing conditions here in the UK hinders the performance we can achieve with larger apertures. So I have found it to be something of a balancing act between conditions and equipment regarding the planets. I have captured images of the planets with a 180 Mak that I haven't beaten with a 300mm Newt. I know that this is solely due to the seeing conditions not being conducive to the larger scope.But I have started asking myself am I getting more enjoyment from several nice images with the smaller scope or perhaps the one excellent image (if any at all) from the larger scope. I am now in the smaller scope camp. I think I will settle on my existing 10" go to dobsonian and I will add a 180mm Maksutov onto my AZ-EQ6 for the nights of poorer seeing. Either that or a SM25 apo and I can then open the sky up to a multitude of amazing views and targets. The only thing that I do know for sure at this second is that it won't take me three years to decide. Good luck with whichever avenue you decide to venture down.

I have never owned this particular scope but FLO sells an Oklop bag for 150/750 reflectors. You could always drop them a message asking them to verify the dimensions.

No you just need to plug the WiFi dongle into the handset port and connect to the Synscan pro app. This then allows ASCOM to communicate to each other using this method. It worked a treat for me as I was pulling my hair out before being told to try this from Alex at FLO.

Another 👍 for the Duplex Moon Atlas.

For what it's worth I couldn't get my dobsonian to connect via ASCOM using the USB connection on the handset. I also tried everything to no avail. I ended up just using the WiFi signal to connect to the Synscan pro app and its mobile driver. This then allows everything else on ASCOM to communicate. In my case it was Sharpcap and Stellarium. You could use the WiFi dongle unless this isn't practical for you.

It appears that the telescope is sold without any extension pieces so focus should be achievable as it comes. This leads me to think that the collimation of the mirrors must be way off if focus is unachievable. Search on YouTube for collimating a Newtonian as there are a lot of good videos on the subject.

I have used the Starfield on all the various modalities of the EQ5 mount. For plonk and point it's better to mark the points of the tripod legs on the ground making it quicker and easier for subsequent setups. When I used the tracking motors without go to I found that just getting Polaris in the polar scope FOV was sufficient for a nights observing. I placed three golf tees in the grass marking the tripod legs. I however seem to be a bit of an outlier in that I love go to. If set up correctly it works every time and allows me to spend the saved time at the eyepiece.

You can still get the laser dot on the central spot on the primary with a secondary mirror that is not correctly positioned. I initially use a concenter to set the secondary correctly and then a cheshire and cap for the primary. Once set I then use a Hotech laser for a check and tweak before every session.

I now have the focuser fitted and centered, along with collimation. What did you use to block the light leaks? I was thinking of some sort of spray foam (black). Any recommendations?

When I visit the Scottish Highlands and Islands each year which is Bortle 1-2 depending on where i holiday the skies when clear can be overwhelming. The sheer number of stars in the sky is amazing and sometimes throws me when trying to get my orientation in the sky. The difference is not like between a 5" and an 8" at home. You don't truly appreciate a dark sky until you experience it for real. I have only taken scopes up to 6" when I travel due to weight etc. I look forward to my trips every year. Only if the clouds played ball more often.

I am in a similar position as yourself in that I have just bought the AZ-EQ6 about a month ago and can't decide which scope(s) to put on it. I have the 10" go to dobsonian to use in the meantime. I love planetary imaging but the 10" basically has that covered. I will be getting a refractor again for sure, probably a 125mm SM. Decisions, decisions 🤔.

Remember that the mount comes with a 2" Stainless steel tripod which is very stable. I am just going to stick with it for now anyway.

The planet is a good match for the AZ-EQ6 and will easily take the weight. Using them on grass is fine but if doing AP then you have to be careful about sinkage with the weight which can ruin your images.

The wooden tripods are better at absorbing any vibrations and also your fingers don't freeze when touching it in the winter. Oh and they look much better.

🙄 I wouldn't attempt to lift it as one unit as it will be very top heavy. Tripod first then the mount head. The head is a heavy lump. The AZ-EQ6 is the limit for me with a takedown setup.

The quality and glass type of apochromatic refractors focus the three colours to almost the same point with a doublet and more or less spot on with a triplet. An achromat doesn't get them as close to the same focal point.

Welcome to SGL 👋.

If visual and planetary imaging is your goal have you thought about a go to dobsonian? These will provide you with the full go to and tracking the same as an AZ-EQ6. I have the 10" version which I use for visual, EAA and planetary imaging. I also bought an AZ-EQ6 for another telescope of which I have still to buy once i make my mind up. If you want to seriously consider doing astrophotography then the AZ-EQ6 will be a better bet for the equatorial set up.