LaurenceT

Welcome to the SGL

I suppose I could always try a lightning to hdmi adapter for direct cable connection from the Ipad to TV.

Lightning to HDMI Adapter | Gear Geek

Excellent, I do have an Apple TV module, I just need to work out the networking implications as the Ipad would be on the Asiair network.

I'm keen to have a go at showing the family some EAA images on a TV in real time.

I'll be doing the imaging on an Asiair so I can sit indoors and view the images on an Ipad but would like to have them on a TV screen so everyone can see together.

Is this technically possible ?

Do these only work if the object is low on the horizon or do they also work on planets higher in the sky?

57 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

Managed to nfinally get the Tair 3 out for a quick go last night.  Got some good data and I was mostly happy with the chromatic aberation.  Quick stretch and process in photoshop (my Pixinsight trial ran out and I have no idea how to photoshop).

All in all I am quite happy.  For £60 for the lens I am very happy and the fungs does not seem to have had a significant impact (compared to my shady processing).  I suspect to get better I would need to spend significantly more than I have done so far.  40 minutes of data with the lens stopped down to F5.6 or so using a step down ring.

 

 

Very impressive results.

I got my copy today, I'll probably spend the next month working out how to use it........

22 minutes ago, carastro said:

If you are using automatic actions, then separate layers will disappear as part of the action.  If you are doing the processes yourself you create you new layer and can then work on it.  I find if I use any automatic action (I rarely do) that you can't step back in the history, so you need to make a duplicate copy if you think you might want to step backwards.

You may find my Photoshop YouTube Tutorials helpful.

https://sites.google.com/view/astrophotography-carole-pope/video-tutorials?authuser=0

Carole  

Brilliant, thanks. I'll have a look at those videos.

2 minutes ago, wornish said:

The History window tab is designed to solve your problem.  Can show it by selecting it from the top menu Window - History

If you have it open it shows a new entry after every adjustment you do.  The bottom one is the latest. To go back to the previous state simply click on the history step above.  You can go back as many steps as you want.  A lot astronomy actions do many individual steps so they add quite a few entries in the history list.

Thanks for that Dave.

27 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

What I do before using any of the action sets is create a new layer first. Then perform the action required and if I don't like the outcome I just delete the new layer I created before the action. 

There's a way in the history tab but I can't remember so I just do the new layer thing above. 

Lee 

Excellent Lee, I'll try that 👍

I've decided to bite the bullet and learn Photoshop after having jogged along for years being happy with Lightroom for my wildlife photography. I'm starting a free YouTube course but at the same time learning how to use the Astronomy Tools Action Set with Photoshop. I notice on the YouTube videos I've followed (Astroexploring and Astroaddict) that when an action is performed a new layer appears, but when I do it the new layer appears for a brief half second and then disappears. I find this frustrating because it means I can't undo an action if I don't like the results.

Be grateful for some advice. 

10 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Try it now you are fully tight and submit the result here. If you still have that in the corner then try adding 1mm of backspacing. 

Will do, thanks Adam and @PadrePeace for your help.

13 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

This article explains Coma which is what this looks like. 
https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/photographylife.com/what-is-coma/amp

 

Is your scope new?

I bought it used .

Edit: I've just checked the scope and the reducer wasn't absolutely screwed into the scope, there could have been a centimetre or slightly more of rotation 🙄

14 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

Back focus is different to the focus you achieve using a bahtinov. What AdamJ is seeing is the comet shaped stars flying outwards in each corner.

So is there a mismatch between the scope and the flattener/reducer?

2 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

That’s bang on 55mm.

That's what I thought. I don't know if it's relevant to back focus but I got a perfect pattern on a bahtinov mask on Vega.

Perhaps there's something wrong with the scope?

48 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Well one thing we would need to fix next before any further assessment is your back spacing as you don't have enough. Are you measuring 55mm from the back of the corrector or from the back of the extender that is matched to the corrector, it should be the latter. 

All in all a good first image though. 

Adam 

Thanks for the reply Adam, much appreciated. This is the setup I'm using:

3 minutes ago, PadrePeace said:

Seems that red/blue star fringing  you had in the first image has gone completely here. Have you done anything to achieve that or was it a conversion anomaly?

It would seem that the fringing only appeared after my attempt at further processing!

2 hours ago, Adam J said:

I see the image as being 1000 X 1000 ish but it should be 3000x3000pixels from a IMX533. It's hard to assess stars on a resized image. 

Image after processing and stretching in APP, exported to Dxo Photolab just for conversion to JPG. This is full size:

1 hour ago, Adam J said:

I see the image as being 1000 X 1000 ish but it should be 3000x3000pixels from a IMX533. It's hard to assess stars on a resized image. 

I understand, thanks, I will have to work out where in the  process it got reduced.

10 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Is that a full resolution image? Hard to see but it looks like you have red on one side of the star and blue on the other? 

Sorry for the newbie reply but how would I display a full resolution image, I've done so much processing of it?

Just had first light with this little scope, being an absolute novice I've had a bit of a fiddle with the post processing and I'm still unsure about the best software route to get rid of some blue haloing around the larger stars. I'd like some criticism in general about the image to help get me on my way.

California Nebula,150x60 sec lights, no calibration frames, unguided, asi533mc pro, Asiair Pro, Skywatcher Az GTi in EQ mode. Processed in APP, DXo Photolab, Lightroom and Topaz.

26 minutes ago, Spile said:

I create target lists for DSOs and binaries in SkySafari that display in the main screen.

I'll have a go at that.

For the previous two nights I've set up under clear skies at about 1900 and started imaging only to shut up shop half an hour later due to clouds. Last night was no different but when we took the hound into the garden at 2330 there was a lovely clear sky. My wife, fed up with my moaning obviously, insisted I had another go so I set up and decided on the Elephants Trunk. All seemed to be going well looking at my Ipad while watching a Netflix film  when suddenly I realised I was imaging my trees instead!

Quick re-adjustment of target and I found the California Nebula and started imaging, it was now 0130 and it went well until I wrapped it up at about 1530 and went to bed.

Askar FMA 180, Az GTi mount in EQ mode, Asiair Pro, asi533mc pro.

100x60 second lights, unguided, no calibration frames. Astro Pixel Processor, Dxo Photolab3, Topaz and finally a bit of Lightroom. My astrophotography and processing are in their infancy!

I've found a solution which works for me with my beginners knowledge of astronomy. I open Stellarium and on the left I select "Sky and Viewing options window".

I then select "DSO" and then "select labels and markers".

I then select those options which I find useful ;

Use outlines for big deep sky objects

use proportional hints

use additional names of DSO.

Under the SSO tab I select "show solar system objects"

I can now see at a glance what my targets may be for a given time or date.

I'll now see if I can find a similar work around in SkySafari. Thanks for all the replies, at the very least I've been able to understand the various options in Stellarium and now maybe SkySafari.

I'm new to imaging, only really started this year. I am using an Asiair and have SkySafari and Stellarium installed on my laptop for reference purposes.

What I'm really after is a way to see all the available targets of a particular type in my area for that night on a single screen while indoors planning my session.

I am obviously able to use SkySafari for instance to select a target from a list and see its position and movement but that's only giving me one target at a time. 

Perhaps I'm asking for the impossible but I'd appreciate some comments.