LaurenceT

1 hour ago, AstroNebulee said:

It looks brilliant Laurence, well done. Calibration files are pretty easy really, just compile your darks library anytime and then just fire off your flat and dark flats at the end of the session. A tracing pad from amazon is fine for flats don't cost much. Doing flats and dark flats on the asiair pro are simple. Just use the the auto flats option for your flats and then for dark flats put cap on, select darks on the AAP and select the same exposure time that your flats were. Not sure on how to combine in App but easy in dss. 

Though your image looks great without the calibration files 👍

Lee 

 

Thanks for your encouragement Lee 👍

22 hours ago, Elp said:

A good result as you've also eeked out some of the nebulosity too. You don't need a filter for Pleiades you can shoot as is, and for a bit more finer detail use a luminence or a UV/IR cut filter and apply it as a luminence layer.

Thinking more about this, I'd have to decide which Astronomik L filter to get (I'm currently researching this) and whether there would be any advantage of a fairly expensive luminance filter over my cheap Svbony UV/IR cut filter.

Also, could you please explain to this novice what you mean by "apply as a luminance layer "?

Thanks again for your help and advice.

That's a shame because the skies were pretty good last night. Is that scope your renovation project?

Another step forward tonight, first time I managed to organise guiding so increased subs to 120 seconds up from 60 seconds. Still haven't bitten the calibration files yet so that's my next adventure!

60x120secs subs, WO Z61, Asi533 MCPro, Evoguide 50ED with asi 120mm mini, Asiair Pro, Skywatcher EQ5 Goto. Processed in APP, DxoLab, Lightroom and Topaz.

I wasn't sure about using a filter so I stuck on a Baader Moon and Skyglow filter to see what happens!

That's a decent tripod to eliminate vibration, should work very well. I'm no engineer but I'll have a think about your suggestion.

16 minutes ago, AstroNebulee said:

Hi Laurance 

Just revisiting your thread as I have just ordered an AZ5 mount using money saved and Xmas money. How are you finding your new AZ5mount now you've been using it a while and any tips you could pass on when mo one arrives. 

I've gotten back into the visual world and having a hiatus from Dso imaging. 

Cheers 

Lee 

Good morning Lee,

Generally I find the AZ5 quite good to use, the only real niggle is the backlash in the azimuth control. This was also apparent with my first copy which I had to return to FLO as the azimuth control eventually became so loose that simply changing the zoom settings in the eyepiece caused the mount to move so much the object disappeared from the view. I could have opened it up but didn't want to void the warranty. This copy still has some azimuth backlash but I can live with it. I think it's a good value for money mount despite the shortcoming, the slow motion controls are a must for me. What tripod will you be using?

One of hidden problems I have encountered with carbon fibre tripods is nothing to do with load capacity but more to do with the dampening of vibration through the legs.

I had the Skywatcher tripod you mention and found it unsuitable for my Mak127 as the slightest touch on the focuser would generate unpleasant vibration in the eyepiece, an electronic focuser helped a bit but still wasn't really the answer.

Being a hobby photographer of many years I had several tripods knocking around. In the end I settled on a quality CF Manfrotto tripod.

There was an improvement but the addition of a tripod leg bag and a 4Kg kettle weight did the trick. The tripod in your link looks to be an excellent choice.

1 minute ago, Joef said:

I may be wrong, but I think that’s the first thing you do before powering up, getting the mount level and facing North, but is the direction and level of the scope important, as the new star alignment would reset your old home position, (I think). 

AFAIK it is important.

I've always taken that the home position of an alt az  mount is that the mount itself should be level as shown in the bubble spirit level and that the scope should be level and pointed to true North.  This is done before powering up the mount.

What mount are you  using?

Last week I was doing some lunar and planetary imaging when quite suddenly my Ipad went blank and wouldn't restart. Apparently they have a sub-zero limit, I decided that if it was too cold for the Ipad it was probably too cold for me even dressed as I was.

Thanks for the replies, I do now understand what back focus is and probably more importantly, what it's not.

I'll get those parfocal rings to see if they may help. I have managed to get focus during the day but it's not perfect which is the same as when capturing the lunar surface. I can focus enough to see craters and other features but the view is fuzzy and the results after processing are poor.

The view about mono cameras being better for lunar makes interesting reading, the only one I own is the asi120mm mini that is attached to my guide scope, I'm naturally reluctant to remove it as it's well focused but I suppose I could always take exact measurements with an electronic vernier calipers which could make reconnection easy without having to refocus. I don't think that I could sneak a new camera past the ever vigilant Domestic Supervisor....

In contrast to the precise advice from ZWO regarding the 55mm backfocus on their cooled cameras the information about the imaging train for the Mak and asi224 is sketchy and varied. I've seen a ZWO document that suggests simply putting the camera into the visual back is enough and also advice about leaving the diagonal in place and replacing the eyepiece with the camera. None of this seems to work for me and my lunar images are very poorly focused.

I came across this video:

https://youtu.be/DVB7R6xdxQY

and his imaging train involves using various Baader finetuning rings:

Baader Hyperion Finetuning Ring | First Light Optics

but he's very vague in describing exactly what his imaging train actually consists of although he does mention a barlow which I don't yet intend to use for lunar but will do so for planetary. As this setup seems to be a popular imaging solution I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this for me.

3 hours ago, Sarek said:

 

 

Thanks all! I know I have a long way to go yet but its good to make a start at last!

The Andomeda Galaxy was also my first target in deep sky a few weeks ago!

Well done, very nice image.

34 minutes ago, bosun21 said:

It’s in preview mode 

Looked to me like it was in Focus mode.

Try it in Preview mode.

Brilliant manual 🤣

Welcome to the SGL

I suppose I could always try a lightning to hdmi adapter for direct cable connection from the Ipad to TV.

Lightning to HDMI Adapter | Gear Geek

Excellent, I do have an Apple TV module, I just need to work out the networking implications as the Ipad would be on the Asiair network.

I'm keen to have a go at showing the family some EAA images on a TV in real time.

I'll be doing the imaging on an Asiair so I can sit indoors and view the images on an Ipad but would like to have them on a TV screen so everyone can see together.

Is this technically possible ?

Do these only work if the object is low on the horizon or do they also work on planets higher in the sky?

57 minutes ago, Ratlet said:

Managed to nfinally get the Tair 3 out for a quick go last night.  Got some good data and I was mostly happy with the chromatic aberation.  Quick stretch and process in photoshop (my Pixinsight trial ran out and I have no idea how to photoshop).

All in all I am quite happy.  For £60 for the lens I am very happy and the fungs does not seem to have had a significant impact (compared to my shady processing).  I suspect to get better I would need to spend significantly more than I have done so far.  40 minutes of data with the lens stopped down to F5.6 or so using a step down ring.

 

 

Very impressive results.

I got my copy today, I'll probably spend the next month working out how to use it........