LaurenceT

Another step forward tonight, first time I managed to organise guiding so increased subs to 120 seconds up from 60 seconds. Still haven't bitten the calibration files yet so that's my next adventure! 60x120secs subs, WO Z61, Asi533 MCPro, Evoguide 50ED with asi 120mm mini, Asiair Pro, Skywatcher EQ5 Goto. Processed in APP, DxoLab, Lightroom and Topaz. I wasn't sure about using a filter so I stuck on a Baader Moon and Skyglow filter to see what happens!

That's a decent tripod to eliminate vibration, should work very well. I'm no engineer but I'll have a think about your suggestion.

Good morning Lee, Generally I find the AZ5 quite good to use, the only real niggle is the backlash in the azimuth control. This was also apparent with my first copy which I had to return to FLO as the azimuth control eventually became so loose that simply changing the zoom settings in the eyepiece caused the mount to move so much the object disappeared from the view. I could have opened it up but didn't want to void the warranty. This copy still has some azimuth backlash but I can live with it. I think it's a good value for money mount despite the shortcoming, the slow motion controls are a must for me. What tripod will you be using?

One of hidden problems I have encountered with carbon fibre tripods is nothing to do with load capacity but more to do with the dampening of vibration through the legs. I had the Skywatcher tripod you mention and found it unsuitable for my Mak127 as the slightest touch on the focuser would generate unpleasant vibration in the eyepiece, an electronic focuser helped a bit but still wasn't really the answer. Being a hobby photographer of many years I had several tripods knocking around. In the end I settled on a quality CF Manfrotto tripod. There was an improvement but the addition of a tripod leg bag and a 4Kg kettle weight did the trick. The tripod in your link looks to be an excellent choice.

AFAIK it is important.

I've always taken that the home position of an alt az mount is that the mount itself should be level as shown in the bubble spirit level and that the scope should be level and pointed to true North. This is done before powering up the mount.

What mount are you using?

Last week I was doing some lunar and planetary imaging when quite suddenly my Ipad went blank and wouldn't restart. Apparently they have a sub-zero limit, I decided that if it was too cold for the Ipad it was probably too cold for me even dressed as I was.

Thanks for the replies, I do now understand what back focus is and probably more importantly, what it's not. I'll get those parfocal rings to see if they may help. I have managed to get focus during the day but it's not perfect which is the same as when capturing the lunar surface. I can focus enough to see craters and other features but the view is fuzzy and the results after processing are poor. The view about mono cameras being better for lunar makes interesting reading, the only one I own is the asi120mm mini that is attached to my guide scope, I'm naturally reluctant to remove it as it's well focused but I suppose I could always take exact measurements with an electronic vernier calipers which could make reconnection easy without having to refocus. I don't think that I could sneak a new camera past the ever vigilant Domestic Supervisor....

In contrast to the precise advice from ZWO regarding the 55mm backfocus on their cooled cameras the information about the imaging train for the Mak and asi224 is sketchy and varied. I've seen a ZWO document that suggests simply putting the camera into the visual back is enough and also advice about leaving the diagonal in place and replacing the eyepiece with the camera. None of this seems to work for me and my lunar images are very poorly focused. I came across this video: https://youtu.be/DVB7R6xdxQY and his imaging train involves using various Baader finetuning rings: Baader Hyperion Finetuning Ring | First Light Optics but he's very vague in describing exactly what his imaging train actually consists of although he does mention a barlow which I don't yet intend to use for lunar but will do so for planetary. As this setup seems to be a popular imaging solution I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this for me.

The Andomeda Galaxy was also my first target in deep sky a few weeks ago!

Well done, very nice image.

Looked to me like it was in Focus mode.

Try it in Preview mode.

Brilliant manual 🤣

Welcome to the SGL

I suppose I could always try a lightning to hdmi adapter for direct cable connection from the Ipad to TV. Lightning to HDMI Adapter | Gear Geek

Excellent, I do have an Apple TV module, I just need to work out the networking implications as the Ipad would be on the Asiair network.

I'm keen to have a go at showing the family some EAA images on a TV in real time. I'll be doing the imaging on an Asiair so I can sit indoors and view the images on an Ipad but would like to have them on a TV screen so everyone can see together. Is this technically possible ?

Do these only work if the object is low on the horizon or do they also work on planets higher in the sky?

Very impressive results.

I got my copy today, I'll probably spend the next month working out how to use it........

Brilliant, thanks. I'll have a look at those videos.

Thanks for that Dave.

Excellent Lee, I'll try that 👍