Pitch Black Skies

What is the benefit of using the 224 for lucky imaging over the 533? I know the 224 has a higher frame rate due to the lower resolution, but couldn't I just reduce the resolution through the imaging acquisition software (Sharpcap) to achieve a similar frame rate?

Anybody?

bump

It does. Specifically the one I would like to know about 😃

Does anyone know what these figures should be set at? Is the idea to play with them until the histogram lines up like below? I'm using an ASI533MC-Pro and an ASI224MC if that makes any difference.

Tadaa https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/manuals-guides

Indeed, just no idea what the values should be. I thought someone might have chimed in by now. I'm beginning to think nobody really knows. I've tried searching online. Can't really find anything about it.

I'd correct it. Just for peace of mind if anything 😄

Here's a screenshot of mine last night at unity gain. You need to be going into the milliseconds for the moon.

Exposure is too long.

Is this in video mode? What is the gain? What is the exposure? It looks in focus, just over exposed.

Does anyone know what these settings should be set at? Is the idea to play with them until the histogram lines up like below? I'm using an ASI533MC-Pro and an ASI224MC.

That isn't in Live Video.. If it's still the same after switching to Live Video, put the dust protector on and see if the image turns black.

Won't be long 😄 I have that same Cheshire sightube you have. It's a great piece.

It looks like the secondary could move just a tad more towards the primary. Other than that, it's an excellent job mate 👏

Have you tried bringing down the gain? Also, make sure it is in fact directed at the rooftop and not slightly above it looking at the sky.

I set the gain to unity and left WB (B) and WB (R) at 50, there doesn't seem to be an automatic setting for them. Not sure if that was correct or not. I never checked the histogram. I adjusted the exposure until it looked bright on my screen. If I reduced the exposure time, would that have given me more FPS? Anyway this is what I managed ⬇️ It's okay, not overly impressed with it. It's a mosaic. I might try my main cam next as a comparison. That can fit the whole disc in it's FOV. I will try a longer video and stack a small percentage.

Hi guys, I've decided to try some lunar photography with my guide cam (ASI224MC) and Asiair Pro. I'm confused about what values I should set the video settings at in the Asiair. Can someone help? I'm using a 130P-DS

Thanks mate, I'm familiar with the process but I am asking Mr Spock as just wondering how he does it with the laser.

How do you align the secondary under the focuser?

For extra peace of mind and security. Post what you think you would like to buy in this thread for feedback. Equipment is generally well looked after but as with buying anything online you need to have your wits about you. Not so long ago, a chap was scammed here on SGL but it was dealt with very well.

Hi Laurance, I've had two lasers, the cats absolutely love them. One of them literally tried to run up my wall after the dot one night, the other stated doing a moonwalk across the kitchen floor trying to get the dot between her hind paws. The thing with lasers is that they can't tell if the secondary is rotated correctly. Well that and all the other things such as they need to be sat squarely in the focuser, need collimating themselves, etc. I recommend a Rigel Aline Collimation Cap and a premium Cheshire sightube. Be sure to check out and maybe follow this thread also for 130P-DS owners. Best of luck

Oh right, that's interesting. I was considering upgrading my HEQ5 with the Rowan belt mod but not sure if it really needs it. Just make sure you remove any backlash before your test for an accurate comparison. If it's fine without it, you could sell it on. A handy £100 or so 🙂

Congratulations on acquiring an EQ6. I'd say if you're guiding and have carefully removed any backlash, the difference would be negligible. However, it will be much quieter once upgraded and you won't have to worry about backlash/slack in that area of the mount for quite some time. I'd say do it.

I think it will only be a concern if you want very large prints of your images. As you probably already know the general recommendation for printing is 300ppi (pixels per inch). I can print 12"×12" which is about 250ppi and the image still looks quite resolved up close. It might be worth sending FLO a quick email asking them which one they would recommend. There are very helpful.