StuartT

Actually that is the cable taking power from the PSU to the UPBv2. Gravity pulling on the cable started to break the joint with the plug. I tried to find a replacement cable but it seems Pegasus don't make them as spares and it's impossible to find one elsewhere (due to the XT60 connector). So I repaired it with epoxy and tape. I don't think that's the problem. The looping cables you see are mostly just from the UPBv2 to the cameras. The reason there is so much cable length is that I don't want it wrapping too tight when the mount slews and flips. As it is, whenever I make major movements or a meridian flip happens, I have to go outside and 'supervise' to move any cables that are in danger of snagging. It's a real pain and there must be a better way of doing this. If only we didn't have to connect stuff with cables! I only have two going 'off scope' - the power from the PSU (which sits on the tripod instrument tray) and the USB back into the house to my laptop. The EQ8 has a hub built in, but apparently it doesn't support USB 3.0!! (a known issue), so I can't make use of it as cameras need a fast connection. about 15m. It runs from my laptop in the house out to the scope. this is intersting. I understood you needed the speed of USB3.0 for deep sky cameras? When you say 5 second imaging, what do you mean? Not exposure, I assume.

I seem to have endless problems with cables. Cameras don't always connect, images down't always download, cameras disconnect when cables move etc. I think part of this is a physical issue. USB plugs are terribly flimsy and loose fitting for a demanding moving system like a telescope rig. I never seem to be able to find the right way to drape my cables around the scope so they don't get pulled or snagged. See photos for how I am set up - advice please! But another issue is the electrical quality of the cables. Some USB cables just seem very poor. Can anyone recommend really good ones?

Thanks both. The window looks a bit closer to the sensor than that in my 2600MC, but maybe not. I was also forgetting that there is an OAG between my camera and filter, so that's definitely more than 1.53mm I'd better try and clean the window then.

I've plotted the transit altitude of Jupiter from my location up to 2025 (during astronomical dark only). In case it's of interest. Some nice observing windows there.

Thanks. Figured out how to get all the altitude data from Stellarium now. In fact, Jupiter looks like it will be better next year (as it will be up over 50 degrees for me)

thanks. But the RA matters too presumably? (since that will mean Jupiter soon isn't visible at night)

oh cool! I didn't know there was a calculator for that! Awesome. Yep. Looks like the filter.

Does anyone know if it's possible to plot out a line showing the position of Jupiter at various times? I want to figure out when it's going to be at its maximum altitude (which is kind of around now, I think). Thanks

I'm not sure I'm following you here. I don't know how StarX removes stars. I assumed it only had one mode of operation. I don't know what 'unscreening' means. I assumed it just took the stars out and then I add them back in, but I've not really looked into what goes on under the hood

Ok, I tried your pixelmath expression (on the left) and my simple additive one (one the right). They are indeed subtly different. I think yours has lightened the sky a little more. Not sure which I prefer to be honest

edited

By the way, I figured out the problem. I used ABE rather than DBE (note to self... don't be lazy)

Usually I don't bother to look at the master flats that come out of WBPP, but tonight I decided to debayer and stretch and take a look. Clearly some kind of dust on there, but I don't see it on my camera window or filter. It's presumably too in focus to be on the objective, so where is it likely to be? I'd like to clean this off if possible but I need to know where to start looking in the optical train. Thoughts?

Starnet2 and StarX both have the same options. You can either simply remove the stars, or you can remove them and generate a star only image too. I always do the latter, then I fiddle about with the starless image (deconv really only works well on a starless image for example), then when I'm happy I add the stars back. Being a simple man 😉, I just use addition, but I'm going to try your rather fancier equation next time. Actually I have some data in the oven now, so I'll try this when it's cooked. (I am using the latest version of StarX btw - AI 11 - and it's now clearly superior to Starnet2)

I do totally understand that. PI is rather 'its own thing' and I was put off it for a while thinking "I don't need that" "too complex" etc. But then I took the plunge and it's been a massive game changer for me. But ultimately, each to his/her own. The best results come not from the tools but from the user of the tools.

To remove the stars I just use StarXTerminator in Pixinsight. The latest version works incredibly well and is fast if you use your GPU. Then I just re-add the stars with the simple PixelMath expression $T+0.8*stars or similar Oh boy, you must learn PI! It's absolutely fantastic. Game changing. I don't use any other software now from raw data all the way to final image. The Adam Block courses are well worth it.

I wouldn't think so. My flat darks are always done at night and my darks were done with the camera in a bag Not very. It's only from May this year. Nope, same gain and offset. Yes, I only ever use NINA and the flat wizard is great. This time the temperature was higher for the flats and dark flats (because I accidentally disconnected the camera before remebering to do my flats (it was 3:30am 🥱) so when I re-connected it to do them, the camera had warmed back up (from -15C to about +9C). Maybe that was it?

Thanks. I generally do most of the processing on the starless image and then add the stars back in at the end using Pixel Math (generally I multiply the stars by 0.7 or 0.8 to reduce their emphasis a bit) My optical train is Esprit 150 (native) --> spacer --> 2" filter --> OAG --> camera

yep. I used a master dark, 20 flats and 20 darkflats

Interesting. I wonder how that could have happened? Surely the flats are the flats (as in they are only showing what the optical train is), so what would be causing over-correction?

6h 24min on M33 with my Esprit 150, ASI 2600MC and an Optolong L Pro filter (processed in Pixinsight from start to finish)

A bit late to the party, but I just fancied trying my hand at this one

Absolutely agree. I did the Quick Start first, now I am working my way through Fundamentals. It's incredibly thorough and systematic and I feel I am gaining a true understanding, rather than simply which buttons to press. Given the sheer volume of the content (there are lots of video-hours in there) I consider it excellent value. I know he has free videos on YouTube, but I find the structured approach in his courses much better as you build your knowledge in a logical way rather than just dipping into youtube to find the answer to one question.

Apologies, I should have said that WBPP can read key info from both the FITS header and the filename. Glad you got it sorted out. WBPP is really superb once you get used to it.

Normally WBPP will read the exposure time from the FITS header. But if it can't for some reason, you can just remove your darks, then re-add them using the "Custom" button. This will allow you to specify things like filter name, exposure time, binning etc The other way to do it would be to go up to the "calibration settings" (top of the calibration tab) and select the darks from there (usually it's set to Auto, but the drop down should allow you to pick a different file)