Quetzalcoatl72

I haven't done planets in a long time, I was using an asi120mc but that is now exclusively my guider so I need a new camera for planets, I heard they're cheaper than deep sky ones as the chips are smaller. The last great image I did is shown in my signature below, I did do mars when it was bright early this year but I want much better images. I have a 8" scope now which Is better than my previous c5. I haven't tested it on planets yet because there is non till later this year. Any Ideas on what I should go for? preferably a zwo and I would like a filter to improve the image quality if that's possible, budget 500, thanks.

Lots of hubble images posted here somehow, I live in bortle 8 and I gave up till after summer solstice there's just no point. One whole hour of darkness isn't enough and the weather forcasts keep lying. No Idea how the above are getting those images this time of year. I did take this 1st of June tho. It was my first time guiding, using a CCD attached to laptop and plate solving. I can't wait till i can use my new found ability's on darker times. First time 300 sec exposure too, always been used to 2-3 mins.

I've noticed the vixen style bar is on the mount side of the setup. I'm using a losmandy, the vixen is on the opposite side of me, maybe it doesn't make a difference?

I like that pier going over the finder, i've noticed your dovetail is placed upside down compared to mine, how so?

How many filters can you actually add to the camera without the image getting weird? in what order would the ir filter go with my Optlong LP and reducer/or/barlow

I just put the lens cap over when doing darks, and a hoodie or something draped over the top. I do remember putting a cloth over the setup shown in that picture and that took away one of the light rings in the darks, but one remained that I didn't get rid of, I could give it another go later to locate the light. Maybe I can figure it out during the day? as I wont be setting up for while. There's been no change other than lighter nights, and this was the first time setting up the asi/focal reducer combo.

Heres a stacked image with my dslr and reducer, if it's a leak I would be from the asi533 however that's not the case without the reducer. Looks like I'm going to have to so some choice of elimination. Sadly AP is impossible atm, I get one hour of darkness for another month or 2. I do not use covers of any kind, can you give me an example?

I only just got it brand new from FLO a few months ago used once with my DSLR never had this problem

No but I have a feeling if I used a Barlow lens I'd get the similar results. Reflections can't have been from an external source however, When I was taking darks the next day(not added to this image) I could see similar rings on my darks which is literally impossible right?

This is clearly a terrible image. Mainly because of the bad seeing being middle of june and only 10 5mmin stacked images processed in APP. But clearly the major issue is the blue ring. This is only present when using my 0.75x focal reducer on my RCT 8" F/8 OTA. What can I do to fix this problem? The reducer is useless for me at this present moment. Below is my camera set up before it goes in the scope. in order left to right: ASI533, M42-M48 Adapter ,T2-M48 16.5mm Extender, Astro Essentials 0.75x Reducer for StellaLyra / GSO Ritchey Chretien, Optlong CLS-CCD LP Filter

I see that that scope is a vixen not SW, I bet the focuser is much better, the sw80 I'm using slides out when when you tighten the screw, I do all my focusing manually. How did you get H-a with that?

What is the purpose of using 3? wouldnt buying a dedicated solar scope be cheaper instead?

Focus was fine, it's better when theres a large sun spot, only a small one, i got lucky

Here's a quick snapshot, i tried to stack the images together but it became glitchy, not sure what happened but it least its debayered. I was also worried about focus because theres no sun spots to test it on and the ed80 focuser is rubbish!

Thanks, but what about when used through a telescope using imaging software?

I accidentally bought the wrong wide angle lens for my canon, now I own a Sony lens. Feel like I should just buy a new camera, one that's mirrorless because I heard they're essential now for some reason. I heard Sony Alpha a6000 is the best budget camera. Any other recommendations would be great, budget £500 new or used. I paid 160 for this Samyang 14mm ED AS IF UMC f2.8 as new, I don't feel like selling it 😕 . Will it be better than my current canon 600Da? Will I need to mod this one? Can I use it for both the Milkyway, landscapes and deep sky astro? Thanks

ah so its when processing the images not when capturing them, so i'm safe? i just need to debayer when finished

Using Sharpcap to record the sun ready for the eclipse as a first timer. I did a 3 minute avi clip, and a snapshot, both show that the image is 'pixelly' when you zoom in, like checkerboard patterns. I have included a picture and the Sharpcap settings file. I couldn't get Nina to get the right settings so i used this program instead. If anyone could help solve this problem before the eclipse that would be great Thanks, if not then i will know for next time whenever that may be. Sun_00001.CameraSettings.txt

The lens would be always used at f/4 not f/2 at that magnification though, no? I can't compare to those great pictures. The only 2 I have is one taken at 70mm and with the ed80, both only had several frames stacked, I assume that 70mm has bloated stars. As they looked great to me at the time, a time before guiding, precise polar alignment, smoother mount, and filters. Can't wait to improve upon these in the near future, still unsure about where to go from. I could do mosaics but I still desire a lens/small aperture scope for taking images of the moon, sun(solar eclipse) and nature as a whole. Andromeda.TIF andromeda_80.TIF

I couldn't work out how to add lenses to Stellarium to see the field of view because it asks for aperture, that detail is never mentioned when looking at camera lenses, looking at these details you've provided I worked out that the current lens I have my eye on has an aperture of 50mm and that's the Canon EF 70-200mm F/4 L IS USM, does that sound pretty sharp to you? Than lens combined with the asi533 has andromeda in the perfect frame. The lens also can be zoomed in and out if I were to get something larger in the field. Thoughts?

Never recorded anything over multiple nights, since my setup is never permanent I'd have to keep the camera in at all times when bringing the scope in i guess, keeping the same rotation, though i guess that doesn't matter as the sensor is square

could i not take a pic of half the galaxy and the other half after? and doing it in one night would be best, could be different seeing on the next night might make it off looking on one side

never crossed my mind but it does seems more complicated. the closest I can get is my ed80 with a reducer, but I am not sure what reducer will work, it's almost in frame with a x0.50. do you know of any reducers?

a guide scope that doubles as a good quality optic scope wouldn't be a bad idea thanks, tho they don't usually fit 2" adaptors so i'd need a 1.25 lp filter 😕

I have a asi533 and I want to have large nebula(veil, north america, horsehead, eagle) and at least the whole of andromeda in frame with a budget of no more than £300, Can anyone recommend a telescope or canon lens with that budget thanks!