powerlord

which I don't get as a reason - affinity photo accepts FIT files fine.

I've found the same thing - yes, it does stars well, but does nowt at all with nebulosity on anything I've tried on it. IF I do it a second time it does, but it overdoes the stars - and I suppose I could just do the 'non-stellar' for second pass ? But so far I'm not seeing anything that qualifies the massive hype over this.

I'll let others post the bug reports - I'm happy to use v1 for now. It does seem some very basic bugs to be released with. stu

I only got 60 mins on this unfortunately - and it was last week with a bit of moon in the sky. 10 min subs to try and eek out what I could. No filters, asi2600 and redcat. Processed in Siril and Affinity Photo. stu

Here's one from last week. 3 hours of 10 min subs with L-Ultimate, and 30 mins of RGB for the stars (and actually got the bubble nebula too with each 60 sec exposure) asi2600, redcat. And unusually for me, I stuck with natural colours. The RGB data was taken when cloudy so a bit hazy, but I got the stars out it ok. Processed in Affinity Photo as usual. stu

On high they pull about 10w (2a at 5v) each. so 20w for both on full. That one is probably in reality about 15ah (not 30 for that size), so IF it can provide 2a to each it will last 15/4 = nearly 4 hours. On low they use a lot less, don't know exactly, but prob about 25%. so would last maybe 16 hours. In reality, if you can run em on medium heat, I think you won't be far off getting a night of imaging out it for 2 probably. though I think I'd stay away from ones that can't even spell Univeral properly 🙂 If in doubt, get 2 - always useful to have. And if they are rubbish, it's amazon so you can always return them. stu

Ah.. The 'Must get the best for the best fallacy' . Many a pound lost there for sure.😂 But yes to answer op. They are 100% required. In summer mine are on low, on winter on high. I don't even bother looking at dew points anymore just always use em.

Oh.. And the genius who made ".aphoto" not only not backward compatible, but with no way of save a v1 version!!!!

Tbh iv went back to v1. V2 seems unusable on my mac. Layer live filters don't work properly, masks don't work, it's a mess. Hopefully they'll sort it soon.

This sits very low where I am, and just above neighbours house and street lights, so it's not one I've ever managed before. And the results are by no means wonderful, but it is recognizable as the head of a witch at least. 80ED with asi2600 and no filters. Just over 2 hours of 5 min subs. Processed in Affinity. stu

I just use 5v USB ones for all refractors and guidescopes. About 15 quid each from amazon. Mine all powered by dc 5v psu, but USB power banks work fine. No need for expensive 12v astro stuff. Just search for lens dew heater on amazon. I use these ones: KIWIFOTOS Lens Heater Warmer Dew Heater Strip with Temperature Regulator for Universal Camera Lens Telescopes Eyepieces Heating, Dew Remover Lens Heater Warmer https://amzn.eu/d/0jiLsCp Stu

Whew - that thing is dim. And with between 1/2 and 1/4 moon has not helped. However, here's the results - 4 sessions - 3 for NB (OSC 2600 with L-ultimate), 26 hours of 10 min subs over 3 nights. And last night, RGB for the stars and whatever else it found for 2 hours of 5 min subs. Last night was intermittently cloudy, but after integrating the stars, tbh I think the slight glow they have adds to the image, so I decided to stick with em. Stacked in APP, edited in Affinity Photo. I did try to use Affinity Photo 2, but it is totally unusable imho just now - layer just don't merge correctly, masks don't work, live adjustments in a layer affect layer below them - utter mess. So until that's all fixed, it's back to Affinity Photo v1. stu

Huh. Very weird. Glad u fixed it. For reference, camera will work fine with no 12v - just needs that for cooling. Stu

it might have connected it as a guide camera ? simplify things first - just plug 533 alone into asiair and see if it detects it. remember and use the a usb3 port. make sure asiair app and asiair are up to date. reboot asiair.

For my plastic obsy, and again, I'll be simply moving this to my new one, I use an in fan and an out fan, controlled by humidity and temp sensor and alexa tasks. if humidity above X, fans go on and keep air being refreshed and moving. it also does a great job of keeping it from getting hot. If it goes above a certain humidity over that, fans go off, and dehumidifier on. it's worked a treat for last year.

Well, that's why we call it ML - machine learning. But to be honest, that's also a terrible name - as it's not learning in the true sense of the word at all either. They can still do some amazing things though. Even a simple neural net can be trained to do things impossible with conventional coding - starnet/starXterminator for example. I'm glad we have it as an option in our bag of tools, but I'm not worried that I'll be bowing to our AI overlords in my life time. Anyhoo, it's more than likely that we are all a simulation anyway* - which shows that at least it's possible - if only by aliens. *or a boltzmann brain.

fair point, but I ran Gb ethernet to the current plastic obsy, so will just be moving the cable to new one - not an issue - I also have a wifi repeater in the obsy (for tablets, phone, alexa, cameras, etc) and that will also be being moved. stu

I think you are right that it is an issue that needs addressing. If you do nothing, there will be lots. But unlike a shed, where you don't mind it and just leave it, I think it can be tackled pretty easily with a simple thin barrier of some sort of insulation - that stops humidity getting to the metal, and the insulation stops its surface getting cold enough to form on top. I think for me, I'm pretty much convinced metal shed is best. And I'm probably going for a 9x6 - it's not quite big enough to not have to worry about where the 300pds is pointing if it's on - but I don't want to have a massive shed just for the month or so a year I have the 300pds setup - I can put up with just having to be more wary of where my gotos and tracking goes when I'm using it. And that give a 4.5x6 roof section, which feels managable for a manual slide, though tbh I think the design will be more optimised if it's built motorised from day 1. I'm still trying to work out in my head what that will look like, but at present I'm thinking 4 steppers - one each corner, driving fixed toothed belts. In the new year I can get a bit of 2020 extrusion and some v wheels, and put a POC together with a stepper motor and see if it all works in principle. I'd like the whole roof to retract or go back in under 5 seconds. out the box, metal shed is gonna be flimsy, etc and need work. But so would an off the shelf wood one. And wood has doubled in price - you'd not make that nice tongue and groove shed of yours for that money now. stu p.s. joking about 5 seconds. though that would be cool.

what insulating material did you use olly ? stu

Indeed, I assume you have tried the (ios only unfortunately) microsoft seeing AI app. truly well thought out. My grampa had AMD and if we was still alive, would have thought it was magic. stu

here's a dodgy animation of what I'm talking about. roof.mp4

AI. 100%. I see it all the time looking for reviews of comparisons between products. Usually about a paragraph in it's obvious. It's weird, because I use an ad blocker (the brilliant ublock origin) so often find myself thinking what the point is, then look at what ublock has purged and its like 50 odd bits of ads, tracking, social mince you name it. Not that most pages are any different mind you. Oh, and get some PC. Ideal for that sort of thing. Stu

Looking into it more, I'm thinking 2020 aluminium extrusion v slot. This would be fitted to the edges of the roof, both strengthening it AND providing the rail, while adding not a lot of weight. On the shed for each of the 4 sides of roof, there would be 2 opposing horizontal nylon v wheels just off centre. at the end of the extrusion I have a hole through it and a pin that can go in, locking it. This provide the final 'lock in' of the roof sections. The extrusion on the edge outer corner will extend around 10 cm. On the shed, a second set, this time of 4 wheels, will be mounted out the edge on a hinge so the set of wheel are free to be either horizontal or vertical. You remove the pin, and as you push out each half of roof, it clears the centre wheels. It is now only supported by the hinged outer wheels. You now replace the pin. So, as you push it further out, it will naturally get heavier at the outside and start to pivot down. at the end of the extrusion there is the pin, to when fully hanging vertically the pin on top of the wheel hinge supports the light weight of the roof section. I think I'll have to model this in solid works to see if it all actually works. Stu

well, that is sort of how ML works really - except we call it a training set rather than the internet, and the rankings are provided by the trainer (a person). I asked it who the UK Prime minister is... on monday. It told me "As of 2022 the PM of the UK is Teresa May".... that's a fun one, because its training data set was up to 2021 only. As you say, as from today it appears that they have unplugged it from the internet as a live source... and this question now just gives that answer. weird.

It is a mistake to think that Doctors are logical though - their training and aptitude is about learning information, and matching it. Not deduction. The scientic process was a stranger in a doctors surgery until relatively recently for example*. Seriously, they are very good at what they do, but logical scientific reasoning is not one of their strong points. stu *Ben Goldacre - Bad Science worth a read if you have never read it.