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Everything posted by Newforestgimp

  1. Yeah I’m now looking at power box and rpi4, I think although not a one box it’s more flexible and can swap out the rpi4 for laptop or replace with rpi5 etc and leave the power box in situ. im a little concerned with the Astroberry set up, I assume you flash the micro sd that comes with the rpi or do I need a blank off the shelf micro sd ?
  2. Stellarmate does look good but it looks like it doesn’t do the power management bit ? Still need separate power supplies for the gear , need someone to come up with an asiair pro that isn’t tied, a Pegasus Pro if you will.
  3. Thanks, So hypothetically if I have a Pegasus Power Box and Astroberry on RPi could i plug in the astroberry to the PPB via usb in same way I would a laptop for example ? The issue I have with the ASIAIR PRO is exactly as you state its a great box but cant be used with anything other than ZWO or as a simple hub when you dont want to use the ZWO app. Looking for a solution so I can use phone/tablet out and about and laptop at home without re-cabling each time, not sure if that makes sense ?
  4. I can see the appeal of both, I like the ability to power and control via the pegasus & laptop combo but is there anyway if out in middle of nowhere i can use pegasus without Laptop ? & likewise when at home i like using the laptop to control everything. Would I be looking at somekind of Pegasus/raspberry pi/laptop combo ?
  5. Moving from vintage lenses to a WO ZS61 myself I was amazed at the improvement, but you will need the Field Flattener, so factor that into your decision. I went for the WO Flat 61A just so I knew it would all work together and its genius, Round stars right to the edge of frame. I tried without flattener and couldn't live with the results it was too restrictive to crop the image down to remove the stretched stars. Nice Pic BTW
  6. Just thought I'd provide a little feedback after applying the best practices advised in the link. I had clear skies last night so rather than gather subs I decided to do a pure guiding analysis and fine tuning. My EQM-35 is un-fettled, as is, out of the box but I'm pleased with the results so far, no Sine Wave tracking in evidence just pulses hunting along the central 0" reference line. I started by making sure the balance was slightly counter-balance heavy & checking and setting the guide speed in EQMOD Toolbox as suggested to between 0.5 & 0.9, I chose 0.8, it was set at default
  7. Ah ok my mistake I can see looking closer the ZWO is TEC cooled, so the Pro Tec cooled ZWO version aside.... ZWO have a non cooled version at £519, the ZWO ASI183MC vs the ALtair Hypercam 183c Fan cooled £499 is the real comparison £20 price difference.
  8. Good Morning All, As the title suggests how do I decide between the Altair Hypercam 183C Pro (mouthful) and the ZWO ASI183MC Pro fan cooled cameras ? to my uneducated eyes one is approx £280 more expensive but without buying both to compare is it a case of picking by price and anodise colour ? Has anybody owned both and binned one for the other ?
  9. So tempted by the colour version of this camera, cant decide between the ZWO and the ALTAIR version which is considerably cheaper, thoughts between them ? would be used on a WO ZS61 with guiding.
  10. Thank you both, FLO gave me a basics check sheet which pointed also an ASCOM EQMOD starting point too. so I’ve gone back to basics, reset phd2 and just changed the tracking rate in ascom as advised by the articles. will run a guiding assistant session next time I have relatively clear skies, to see what setting suggestions to backlash and aggression etc phd makes.
  11. WOW ! something to shoot for indeed !! How do I turn off any backlash corrections in EQMOD ?
  12. Yes how indeed? I saw mention in an earlier post of the guide rate setting in EQMOD being low at 0.2.... what should that setting be ? So far im going with the Trevor Jones school of thought and not stressing too much about the numbers but would like to get a stable flat saw tooth rather than a sine wave saw tooth hunting above and below the centre axis. Been happy with the images so far but its nice to know what settings to use to start out with.
  13. Perhaps speak to the retailer, just reading another post on cloudy nights with same issue and he was using two spacers and a Field Flattener and was still struggling, it was with a pentax but it does suggest the ES ED80 needs a hell of a long train back to the camera sensor.
  14. Seems strange, i am def no expert, so i can only ask if you've tried (which i assume you have but been taught never to assume) no extension, one extension, two extensions ? what size are the extensions youre adding ? I needed just a single 20mm extender on my WO Z61.
  15. Thanks, understand, was hoping it might be best of both worlds, powered usb hub by day, portable mini computer by night thanks anyway.
  16. as a complete noob i went headlong into platesolving after wasting evenings fighting with synscan to offer me alignment stars that were actually visible, now ive got it working ive removed the handset from the loop. I cant tell you how much more straightforward initial set up is after the obvious learning curve and experimentation. Considering some form of mini computer now to have just one cable connected to a single power supply. great shot BTW
  17. Altair Hypercam Colour, suitable for DSO 183 or similar chipset.
  18. Can this be used as a USB hub and bypass the ASIair software whilst using at home with Laptop and more familiar software such as APT, PHD2 etc ?
  19. Thanks all for your opinions and advice, After doing a some more research based on that advice I'm starting to go against the subject topic & come down on the side of a dedicated astro camera , I think something like the Altair 183 Pro could be a good option for me after trying various chip size/scope/target combinations on astronomy tools, and pleasantly surprised it wasn't silly money. I'll still keep a DSLR in the quiver but think I might just stick with my 1300d &/or get it modified for now, the Full Frame ambitions might have to be side lined or for terrestrial only as I'
  20. You’d be right, it’s wide field DSO that interest me the most atm and more forgiving for my noob skills but it does tend to send me down the path of most expense Ideally a modded DSLR to not have the extra cost as you say of getting it modded. The cheapest option would be to send my 1300D away to be modded but before that I wanted to check on others experience of FF vs APS-C. I have an old 30D aps-c and it’s just way better screwed together than the 1300D, maybe a 60D/70D would be the sweet spot for DSLR.
  21. Appreciate all the feedback, food for thought. Yes I did mean smaller relative to frame size, I realise the object image itself will be same but wasn’t sure if. FF image would withstand aggressive cropping in post processing. When it comes to price I should have said I would be looking at 2nd hand market and decent CCD/CMOS seem to be like finding hens teeth, then also finding one suitable for DSO and the price rockets, unless I’m missing what the optimum bang for buck price point is on them ? Which is the first rung of the ladder that would be better than a modded DSLR ? Maybe that’
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