Newforestgimp

That looks worthy of a council complaint tbh, totally unnecessary to have lights mounted so high up on a house, and besides nobody wants to look at that hideous conservatory, I bet that’s comfortable in summertime 😂

I’m having a bit of trouble focusing my new rig, RC8 with DSLR & OAG using a ZWO EAF & ASIAIRPRO. I can achieve focus so I know the spacing is correct, the issue is with the EAF, it seems to really struggle with the RC8 & DSLR combination, I achieve rough focus by eye, which I don’t trust as my eyesight is shocking at reading distance, I then switch to autofocus and all manner of things happen with the v-curve looking like a a hill rather than a valley, sometimes the EAF winding the focuser all the way in at random, or because I don’t like the EAF result I set it running again and it then finds a totally different position that it claims to be in focus ? I know the collimation is slightly out but not enough to cause total EAF meltdown surely ? I had the option set to re-focus after every hour and it must have thrown a wobbly and wound in totally losing focus again. wondering if there are any tips or tricks ? This is my first time using the RC8 stepping up from a wide field refractor, I expected a learning curve but had expected the setup to be reasonably straightforward. On a different topic can I use the OAG guide scope (ASI120MM) to perform POLAR alignment since it’s sharing the main optical tube and it’s live view capabilities are far better than the DSLR ? many thanks Andy

Not to complicate things further but I do not use memory stick during capture sessions. I store on the DSLR and AAP, then use either camera memory card or stick to transfer images to laptop, of course this approach will have to change if/when I switch to dedicated Astro camera.

I’m going to have to try again now using the USB 3 port on AAP, 😂 I probably did test it but no harm in trying again. I assume you connected to the usb on the RA and not one on the saddle ?

I wonder if your issue is actually the same as reported by myself and others, you’ve just had an added confusion that AAP does connect initially but that connection isn’t sufficient to maintain reliable control. Try a hub and see if that cures the random mount behaviour 😉

I might well be wrong but I seem to remember using the hand controller and usb dongle on first set up & manually placing the mount in the standard north facing, counter weights down position and setting that as home position via the handset. Since that point I’ve not connected a handset and whenever I ‘Park’ the scope it returns to that std position no problem. Might be worth a try.

On a more positive note I’ve started experimenting and testing using the iStarfi wifi dongle, and so far it’s allowing me to control the mount with CDC/Stellarium/APT remotely but I can’t get control of cameras via that wifi link. so for me I can see me removing the AAP altogether and going back to a laptop and a long usb cable to the pier mounted usb hub, unless I can come up with another cunning plan.

I don’t understand the issue tbh, another guy on a different thread stripped his mount down and replaced the internal wiring. my hub is powered, but as stated before if you have an ASI Astro camera with a hub this also works apparently. it’s really annoying as I chose the GEN45 partly on its through wiring to help simplify spaghetti junction and now it’s worse.

Since using a usb between AAP and mount I haven’t had any issues, the ZWO recommendation is to use the usb hub on the back of their Astro cameras, I don’t currently own one sadly, so it’s the hub for the time being. interested to know how you connected your AA+ directly to the mount ?

It doesn’t, with hindsight. Not something I’m blessed with.

Hi Ian, yeah it seems a common problem that connection from AAP to GEM 45 needs to go via a USB HUB, it worked instantly when this was done. The usb hub could also be that which is on back of ZWO ASI Cameras 👍

Agree, it’s 100% experiment, might just end up with leather washers to eliminate any resonance there might be.

I don’t have any vibrations as such, but stainless steel has inherent spring which is noticeable when setting up. So this is just an experiment to see if that is deadened , if it does then any unwanted, unseen heavy footed visitors might also be eased. That and they only cost a couple of quid each 😂

She brought me the ability to create Mkiii of my DIY pier…. (the anti vibration engine mounts.)

Something to help me ruin a perfectly good scope 😂

Hi All, Is anybody using an iOptron iStarfi wifi adapter with their GEM45 mount ? I’m tempted but can’t find too much on it regarding its real world performance, is it any good ? Range ok ? Im hoping it might replace the Asiair for wireless home use so I can go back to APT PHD2 etc. regards Andy

Let us know if it works out, bit concerned I will make mine worse 😂

WMD ?

Perfect Vlaiv, thank you. As you suggest I think I will remove the reducer and see how I get on with exposure times. I will also try the binning on the ASI AIR too see if that helps. Andy

Thanks Vlaiv, i “think” I now understand the relationship between the reducer back focus and sensor, your explanation really helps. So in theory if I dropped the filter drawer that would get me somewhere closer to ideal. Or remove the reducer from the equation and the filter drawer could stay for example ? how about the extender rings between OTA and focuser ? Do I need 50mm or can I reduce that ?

Sorry to resurrect this but my head is scrambled trying to work out back focus and reductions. I'm yet to test my new set up but i wondered if someone could give me a yay or nay with what i have put together and if im going to be able to achieve focus ? RC8" > 50mm extension ring > focuser > CCD47 > ZWO OAG 16.5mm > ALTAIR Filter Drawer 17mm > WO M48 T Mount 11mm > 550D DSLR 44mm I have pushed the CCD47 as far into the focuser as possible so that the OAG butts up against the focuser, & by my measurements & component specs i get 88.5mm from focuser to the sensor plane on the 550D APS-C sensor. I can see TSO recommend 85mm, will the extra 3.5mm hurt me or should i look to ditch something like the T Mount for a slimmer version ? I'm getting a bit lost when people say they are using the 0.67 reducer at 0.72 and how this is achieved ? Do I need the 50mm Extender Ring or should i attached the focuser direct to the OTA ? Any advice appreciated, even better if its in proper layman terms. Id like to know before i spend hours trying to achieve the impossible if one of the clever people on here could say Yes that'll work or don't be silly you'll never get focus with that lot 🤣 Regards Andy

Heavy duty all weather cover for when rig left out on pier for extended periods…

I don’t actually own a 3D printer, I’m trying to find a suitable flats panel that doesn’t cost too much and allows me to leave scope polar aligned ie not pointing vertical to balance a panel on it. The designs above look fab.

No problem, and of course the penny just dropped on the size of printer involved. thank you

Wow, love the shots and love how that guide scope looks. Do you have an idea of overall weight of the entire rig ?