Felipe

Hi there!, Have you solved the issue with that?, I’m having the same problem with my wifi, near the backyard is fine, but once i get inside the house can’t connect anymore. cheers!.

Hi!, that took long time, I'm using the GSO focal reducer 0.75x, I haven't been able to use it again due to bad weather, and I decided to get a different reducer, the CCDT67 by AstroPhysics. thanks!.

Yeah, same with mine, if I remove the reducer, goes away, but I've used the reducer before, that's the thing...don't know why suddenly this became an issue.

hey!, yes, so for some reason the spider veins are casting a shadow over the reducer, as soon as I remove the reducer the reflection of the donut disappears along with 4 spider veins shadows, somebody mentioned in other forum that the whole cam+drawer+exten+reducer was too far in the focuser, maybe i'll try to put it a bit further out, funny that I got it now as I used the same configuration previuosly without any issue. Thanks guys!.

Hi colleagues!, Just found this post as I'm searching for answers for my issue with a reducer actually, sorry if I bring this in here, and maybe it will be useful information for everyone!. I have my RC6" working with a reducer, and I get this weird shadow of the spider veins into the image itself, also I get a reflection donut somewhere along the filter drawer or the reducer, has anyone using a reducer here has came across with such thing?. my current set up goes like this cam+filterdrawer+extension+reducer+focuser. I'm using a ZWO ASI533 along with a filter zwo drawer. photos as example

Hi colleagues!, Nor sure if this is the right place to put this on but I'll give it a crack. I'm getting this weird reflection of the secondary mirror and spider veins on the focal reducer of my telescope, or filter, don't know where the reflection is honestly, I know that when you aim to a bright star you might get a flare reflected. Mi current imaging train is like this: Camera+Filter Drawer+Extension+Reducer+Extension+focuser. For some reason, it doesn't matter how I configure this set up I always get that reflection on my image, not sure if this can be removed with flats as I haven't tried that yet. has anyone came across with something similar, and, how did you solved it?. I hope the photos makes sense of what I'm talking about!. Thanks a lot for taking the time to read and help!. Clear skies!.

Hi Scorpius, thanks for the help, yes I noticed I can slide up and down the prism when loosing the screw on the side after I posted it, I’ll have a look at the link and see if I can get it shipped to where I am. thanks!.

Hey guys!, I hope you are doing great so far with this crazy world!, I was hoping to shoot a question and find somebody who might know about it. Currently I’ve got a new OAG a QHYOAG medium size which I would like to use it with my Canon DSLR but I’m missing and adapter to get the set up going, the OAG comes with 2 different spacer rings M42 and M54 threads, I’ve manages to connect my M42 to 2” which goes to the telescope, but I have no idea how to connect the T-2 ring (Canon) to the OAG, the only solution I can think of is getting a M42 male to male which I haven’t found anywhere. Also I notice that connecting the M42 to 2” adapter blocks quite a lot of area of the prism which I think it might block light coming into it. here are some photos of what I’m trying to explain in words, and big thank you to anyone who might had the same issue in the passed and want to share a solution!. first image is the DSLR to OAG with both M42 females. Adapter missing ??? second photo is the OAG without the M42 to 2” adapter third photo the prism blocked by the M42 to 2” adapter. thanks guys!.

Cool, I was wondering about the distance, to get the art. Star focused I had to get the telescope to a rugby field haha. thanks!.

Hi Vlaiv, Did you tried this method on a real star?, would it be possible to perform with an artificial star?, at the moment I´m having trouble with my RC 6¨, i think it´s way out of collimation. Thanks!.

Thanks again Vlaiv!, I’ll try that out!.

Thanks Ivor, Do you know if that iPolar would work to check cone error as well?.

Hi Vlaiv, Thanks for the info mate!. yes, the mount has a PEC training setting that I can play with, The movement in zig zag is basically the same as the gif but very uniform I must say, so yeah, next time I’ll have a play with that. Polar alignment it is something that I’ve been trying for fix a lot, here in the southern hemisphere (New Zealand) it is tricky to see the SCP so I use the app PS Align pro to roughly aim in the right direction and then do a polar alignment iterating with different stars until I reach 0 arc/sec but I guess there’s nothing like 0 for real. About the guiding it something I’m having a look at the moment, as the payload capacity of the mount it is already pushed i need to get something very lightweight, so my options are narrow on this side of the planet at the moment. Thanks Vlaiv, I really appreciate you have taken the time to drop some workd for me!. cheers!.

Hey guys, recently I’ve been trying to get myself started on the this long journey of AP, and as a total beginner I manage myself to get some equipment going, I have an Skywatcher EQM-35 mount and a GSO RC 6”, no guiding system at the moment, I’m still figuring out correction on my polar alignment and doing my homework with all the different setting in the mount, I know that the telescope it is a little bit heavy for the payload capacity for the mount, tho the total weight of the set up with my DSLR cam is 6.4kg, so I’m really pushing the limits with the mount and the telescope. I got a few photos of the Trifid Nebula the other night and as I go through them I noticed clearly the target drifting away from the FOV, in a linear direction, along with that there are some zig zag in the movement as you may say that the mount is chasing more than tracking the target. Does anyone might have a suggestion on what am I doing wrong or what can I do to avoid this issue?. i have a video that can explain better what I’m talking about. thanks for taking the time to read the whole post guys, and any help or suggestion will be much appreciated!. IMG_0036.MOV

Yeah, the reticle in mine came way off so I had to adjust it, I’ve been pushing the payload limits of the mount quite a bit but so far I have had good results, the total weight of my set up is about 7.9kg, with my DSLR mounted in it, I had to loosen the Dec as well, so now it has a smooth ride, so far I’m happy with the mount, it is not the best but for starting out it gives you every single one of the small issues so you can learn how to solve them.

Hey Martin!, I have the same EQ mount, I have been using it for imaging as well as viewing and I’m still learning, but I was wondering how did you twicked the backlash compensation?, I have a GSO RC 6” mounted on and every time I’m doing some imaging I notice a drift in the photos, nothing to be worry about it is very small, but it’s there, also have you played with the PEC training at all?, all of my imaging sessions are unguided, just by tracking. thanks mate!.

Hey Jonathan, that’s really helpful info, I’ve read in a different forum that leisure batteries are no good for powering a mount due to a fast degradation of the battery, I guess all depends on the maintenance of it, finally I’ve got a power tank with the same specks of a Celestron power tank or any other Telescope brand, I’ll see how it goes with that one for now, is winter here where I am so, I haven’t got may clear skies to test it out, thanks for the answer man!.

David, thanks so much mate!, i had the doubt with the amperage if it is safe to connect it to a higher Amp power supply. thanks!.

Hey guys, totally newbie here, I just got my EQM35 mount and as it may have appear in an old post, doesn’t come with the power supply, I was wonder if any of you has some experience with what kind of power supply do I need for it?, is it possible to use one of those jump starter for cars?, the manual says that needs a 12V 3A to function, I’ve only found a few power tanks with that specs which are a bit expensive if I compare with a regular jump startEr with a different setting, same 12V but more Amp or les Amp. does more Amp means it’s going to fry my mount?. I’m base in New Zealand by the way, so if any kiwi out there would like to share some info, I would get them a beer!. thanks guys!. And sorry if this thread was already opened!.