WilliamAstro

So I have taken many shots of these noctilucent clouds in the early morning and I was wondering if there is a way for a program/software to detect the best image out of the rest of the images from continuous shooting. I find it actually tedious to find the best one manually.. Cheers! William

UPDATE 11/06/2022: So far I got these captures which are deemed successful, the waxing gibbous takes were taken at ISO 100, 1/100, F11 on video mode with digital zoom. The waxing crescent was taken with different ISO, Shutter speed and F-stop out of experimenting, Lens used is Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 II, Camera used is Canon 600D. Taken by video mode, ISO 100, 1/100, F11, Frames extracted using PIPP and then stacked using Autostakkert!3 then post processed using Registax V6 and Adobe Photoshop 2022 Coloured version of previous image, using Vibrance, Saturation and Color Mixer from Camera Raw Filter. This image was taken through shutter release images instead at ISO 800, 1/800, F/5.6 and then doing the same procedure like the previous images taken. (Experimental) Feel free to share your thoughts and opinions.

If I am recording a video to stack the image, what about the lossy compression or whatever that makes it less detailed in the data? I am not afraid to experiment.

Here is a successful image I took last night with the advice taken from this topic, credits given. ISO 400, f5.6, 1/800 44 images in total taken then 70% of that stacked in Autostakkert!3 then processed in Registax V6 and Photoshop. Cheers and clear skies. William

1. No 2. Yes 3. Yes

This is the metal stick that is screwed onto the green dovetail, I screwed it on normally and that is when it happened. I did what I did in the video, and nothing worked. Even at the slightest grip still nothing and especially the same with the metal counterweight bar.

I am referring to the metal stick you attach to the dovetail, and also I have tried what was shown in the video and nothing worked.

Last night I attempted to do some imaging with my SA and I was met with the RA clutch being stuck and in fact it is common to actually happen, I looked at a video of how a person untightened the clutch and it didn't work for me. The metal stick that you attach to the L-bracket for your counterweight got stuck as well and the imaging session was halted because of that issue.

After having first experiences with using my 600D and Star Adventurer, I often have trouble finding objects I choose to image. But it is very difficult aligning the camera on where you wanna go, especially when it doesn't have any optical aid to help you find what you want to take. So in solution of this, is there any adapters that are available and capable of attaching my finderscope from Svbony SV182 6x30 Finderscope or a red dot finder to my Canon 600D? (Horseshoe adapter) If so, please send me a link or image of the product and it's specifications of what I described and what you even used before. Cheers William

I used DSS and Photoshop

I use a Canon 600D, EF 75-300mm Lens f/4-5.6 III, and an Amazon basics tripod to take simple photographs of the moon. When I took previous images of the Moon with this equipment the majority of my images have not much detail & motion blur (I do keep my tripod low for sturdiness, it must be the shutter from the camera.) I use the Looney 11 rule. (F/11, ISO 100, 1/100) Is there a way to take photos of the moon with more crisp detail and at faster shutter speeds to avoid motion blur? Here is what I would hypothetically like to have as an image for example. Cheers William

I used my Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer Pro, Canon 600D, Canon EF 75-300mm Lens f/4-5.6 (135mm focal length in this session in manual focus) to photograph this image, at a 16 minute exposure unfortunately, I did polar align the mount but the problem was that I used a ballhead at first attempt since it was hard trying to aim to the target the RA and Dec clamps. I left it out doing it's job for over an hour but it didn't go as planned as the camera dewed over and the camera slewed slowly out of place overtime. I used 50 lights and 45 darks, this is my first attempt of photographing this. You can definitely tell the shape of the Soul nebula and Heart nebula, if I had an hour exposure it could have showed better results. Hopefully this progress will improve as I have more experience in this each session. Please help me and give suggestions which is key for future improvement. Cheers and clear skies. William

So I was suggested whether to use either the ballhead and the adapter that comes with my SA Pro, or use the counterweight tool to photograph something and I can't seem to put my finger on what to actually use. Here is what I want to capture with the camera and specifications. Target: The Heart Nebula (IC 1805) Camera: Canon 600D Lens: Canon EF 75-300mm Lens f/4-5.6 III Single exposure time: 20 seconds Focal length: 135mm ISO: 800 Total length of exposure that is wanted: At least 1 hour Now what should I use, either the ball head or the counterweight tool, plus how can I move the counterweight tool or make the camera point to a certain object like IC 1805 for example when the counterweight is in use instead since it only can just screw onto the camera and that's it. Cheers William

The tracking is actually doing it's job, but another friend of mine from Discord said the stars are slightly trailed. It is the first time for me setting it up and polar aligning it without a counterweight on and not using the azimuth side knobs since it didn't move when I adjusted them so I had to move the gear slightly itself. so that must be the reason why my stars can appear slightly trailed. To build my kit in advance to deep-sky imaging, I like to get a guiding kit as it can be required for more accurate tracking to the stars.

I am using a Canon 73-300mm Lens f4-5.6 III, the mount is Star-Watcher's Star Adventurer 2i, I photograph my shots at 100-200mm focal length. But still requires guiding for more accurate tracking.

After receiving my Canon 600D and SWSA, I am now thinking about acquiring guiding equipment to improve the tracking of my mount later on when I improve how I do with my equipment. I personally would like to use the 'ZWO ASI120MM' camera and then a decent guidescope with a price ranging from £30-80. Cheers William

😂

After receiving my Canon 600D and SWSA, I am now thinking about acquiring guiding equipment to improve the tracking of my mount later on when I improve how I do with my equipment. I personally would like to use the 'ZWO ASI120MM' camera and then a decent guidescope with a price ranging from £30-80. Cheers William

So during the night of Monday, I learned how to setup the Star Adventurer Pro. It was kinda difficult but thankfully my session became a success, so those screws on the sides which moves the mount slightly as an adjustment for polar alignment, upon tweaking them nothing didn’t move so I moved the setup to adjust the position of the north star, then adjusted the latitude wedge. Am I suppose to move the setup to point specifically to the north star or use the side screws to move the view, or even unscrew the tracker to rotate it pointing at where it is suppose to, especially adjusted the latitude as well. Cheers William

I just want a summary of the outcome of getting scratches on the secondary mirror, can I still get good images of planets? I don’t have to worry about any slight noticeable changes? If so I will just forget about it and be happy with planetary detail on Jupiter, Saturn and even the Moon.

I wanted my mirrors to be the cleanest so I will not have any concern of having it affect my images overtime.

Regards to cleaning the secondary mirror, Well, I only cleaned it once or twice from what I can remember. But I hope that doesn't make the telescope completely useless, I use my telescope for the purpose of planetary imaging with ZWO 120MC-S & 2X or 3X Barlow lens. I phoned a telescope shop and they told me I will only see discoloration on the moon's surface which is the only difference but he told me there is nothing to worry about. My biggest fear is my telescope is completely useless and I have to pay more money for a new one.

I have seen this video before and from what I saw with the comments, people said that Windex is too strong for the coatings, and most of comments found how the person was cleaning the scope was not helpful.

same cloth then before and not cleaning it again as of now

Well, it will never be for sale. 😅