WilliamAstro

I figured out why my image is smeared, I used too much subs which smeared the image from it's rotation. Now I use 3 subs which are the best for me to get the results out.

I use celestron nexstar 127 slt, zwo asi120mc-s, 2x or 3x barlow with adc (optional for either), autostakkert3! registax and photoshop.

My first conclusion is that I must have derotated too much of the amount for this and ended up smearing the image..

By the title, there is this problem which is noticeable if you compare it my de-rotated image of Jupiter appears to be slightly smeared and a little loss in detail whilst the single exposure appears more significant. Any ideas? Single exposure Derotated image using 6 images of 2 minute exposures which is a total of 12 minutes.

I made a de-rotated image of Saturn and next I want to add its moons to the image. Is there a way to rotate the image back to the way it was before de-rotation and have placed exactly where it is with the moons? William

Turns out I ticked horizontal lines and vertical lines by mistake from the Calibration tab, what I was told by someone else from CN is that I would try out the minimum frames like 100 and experiment with it. I need to make it cropped too because it is "too much for that big of a pool". Using Autostakkert!3 by the way.

As I got data of the Sun with my solar filter through my Celestron Nexstar 127 SLT and ZWO ASI120MC-S as the camera. I need help on how to make this stacking more improved. The problem is also that my telescope was on Solar System align and I aligned it to the Sun and the tracking is inaccurate so I had to keep touching the remote for slewing any of what I need in FOV to be back in it whilst I take data of it. Here is the image to gain insight in the problem I am facing.

Can you redirect me to Juan please so I can contact him about it?

May I kindly ask you to elaborate who "Juan" is?

I am saving up for another Canon 600D, as the first one can be dedicatingly for nature photography, lunar photography and more. Whilst the astro modified camera will be dedicated for deepsky astrophotography. I am seeking camera specialists/professionalists to modify the camera since I am only 17 with no experience of electrical engineering so I would find a professional to modify the camera for me so I won't have any risks of breaking the camera myself. For some it could be easy to do it themselves but for me as I am also clumsy can break things. Feel free to send advice, ways and tips as I am on the road to this astro modification. Cheers William

I had such a wild night going back and forth in finding Saturn through my telescope. I firstly used a Svbony 7x30 Finderscope, and the knobs weren't aligning the object targeted where it should be so the object can be in the sensor. So I switched to a ZWO MiniScope and used that and then finally managing to get Saturn and adjusting the focus without a bahtinov mask and achieving focus. From what I have learnt with focusing planets, you have to observe details that appear when you focus. If you see the most details then leave the focus as it can be at the best focus. I will describe problems with my 7x30 Finderscope and seeing if the problem resolves after another night out with it. I made a mistake by mixing up the colour Debayer which resulted in Saturn to be blue instead of it's natural colour and how I resolved that was swapping the red and blue channel which were in the wrong order using photoshop. I consider the seeing to be average to good. Images 400 x 400 Resize Equipment and Software Used: Celestron Nexstar 127 SLT (Telescope) ZWO ASI120MC-S (Camera) 2X Barlow, ZWO Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector (Lenses) Autostakkert!3, Registax V6, WINJUPOS, Photoshop 2022 (Software) Thanks for positive feedback, cheers, and I hope you all have clear skies! William

Because my mount doesn't accurately track the sky I always move it bit by bit to avoid it moving away from the object I am looking for. Whilst I do that when I am capturing data the object would move around and jitter from the movement of me using the remote whilst it is on the mount. Upon analysing frames in Autostakkert the frames where the planet is jittered and moved about would be in the start end of the quality graph and it can't be properly distinguished from all the normal frames that don't suffer from nudging by me moving the mount slightly. When I sharpen the stacked data with that I end up with this lines of where parts are stacked on top of each other but not the rest of the object. Cheers William

So as I ditched the solar filter since it is still risky as it can be prone to minor scratches and pinholes which leads to risk of damaged eyesight, I went on SGL months ago discussing a way to image/observe the sun without any risks. And one person suggested me a solar wedge. Here are questions about this product. Q: If the material inside the solar wedge (that blocks out the sun light and you see the sun's disk) gets scratched, is there any risk to that? A: (Here) Q: It is said that it heats up overtime when it is pointed to the sun, if I use any imaging cameras or lenses is there a chance that will melt/burn the materials on them? Does it also have a risk of burning your skin too if your not careful? A: (Here) What I know from this product so far: I know that it is only compatible for refractor telescope up to 150mm in diameter. In solution of that I will get myself an Evostar 72-ED and use my Nexstar SLT Mount since that mount only can be attachable to dovetail bars from an OTA. Hypothetical equipment used dedicatedly for Solar/Lunar imaging. OTA: Skywatcher Evostar 72-ED Mount: Nexstar SLT or even my Skywatcher Star Adventurer (experimentally) Cameras: ZWO 120MC-S, Canon 600D Other: Lunt Herschel Wedge 1.25 Inch (for Solar imaging) Feel free to give back advice as much as needed as I go along with this project. Cheers! William

So I used a bahtinov mask for imaging Jupiter and Mars and from this forum post on Cloudy Nights someone said basically that bahtinov masks aren't good enough for that as they are for low resolution imaging, I was advised to tweak the focus from time to time and observe any changes in detail until I get the best result. I used a bahtinov mask and Sharpcap to calculate the symmetry of lines from the star. I was told from my Jupiter image taken with my 5 inch Mak that it is significantly over-sharpened. Any thoughts and opinions? I'm not giving the person any slander from what they said it's just that I need more research on what they're talking about. Cheers William

Problem solved, next time I will not screw it tightly as it will result in that problem again. Thank you for the advice and help and wish you clear skies.

P.S I used the rubber grippers

Problem solved, next time I will not screw it tightly as it will result in that problem again. Thanks to those who gave advice and helped me out and wish you all clear skies.

The reason why I ended up with good results with Jupiter and Mars is because the jet streams and air turbulence was low, My plans to image planets are made sure there on the perfect path to looking great. To keep an eye on jetstream and turbulence problems, use this website here! https://www.netweather.tv/charts-and-data/jetstream What also doesn't help with turbulence is observing inside a warm environment such as your room for example, or observing whilst an air turbulent is coming from a chimney or a vent and even a plane that passes the object your observing. I advise you to take your telescope and equipment out for a couple or few hours before observation so the telescope can adapt to the air in the environment it is in. Just make sure to use a dew heater to prevent dew/moisture on your scope overtime as it can ruin the process of your data capturing. I hope this will be helpful for you and other astronomers inside and outside of this forum and clear skies! William

I spent the night setting up my telescope, using my bahtinov mask for great focus, and using Auto Two Star alignment method for more helping tracking with my Nexstar SLT Mount. Successfully I captured Jupiter and Mars and took multiple long exposure videos of them in AVI via Firecapture, The results were amazing at the end. I consider Jupiter to have good seeing and Mars too even when it is far from us as of now, Upon achieving this much data I managed to create an animation of Jupiter and it's moon IO with it's shadow leaving the disk of it's parent planet. I even made a rotation animation of Mars as well, and used 3 best exposures of each planet de-rotated via WINJUPOS. So here is what I achieved through out the night. Images: 2X Resize GIFS/Animations: 2X Resize Comparison between real image and WINJUPOS simulation. Equipment and Software Used: Celestron Nexstar 127 SLT (Telescope) ZWO ASI120MC-S (Camera) 2X Barlow, ZWO Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector (Lenses) Autostakkert!3, Registax V6, WINJUPOS, Photoshop 2022 (Software) Thanks for positive feedback, cheers, and I hope you all have clear skies! William

So upon making a de-rotation of Mars that I captured from last night I am met with these unwanted blue flecks/pixels in the image. I used LD compensation to help align the outline to the planet and I am thinking that it's that or something else. Cheers for any advice! William

I have this problem where when I de-rotate an image of Jupiter with it's moon shadow (edging near the end) The final result ends up with the shadow being in a black line rather than being a black circle. Cheers for any advice William

If the threads are chipped which results in that, should I get it replaced as it is warranted or is it still fine to use?

Upon getting my guidescope from delivery, after unboxing and finding out you can unscrew the parts which are use for focusing the stars for your guiding camera, I screwed them to tightly back on now I can't unscrew them again... The arrows shown on the image is what needs to be unscrewed, The horseshoe is only that can come off. Cheers William

All 3 of these images were taken at different focal lengths, The image of the view from the inside of the porch door and the especially the version with the lights off was used at 18mm focal length, ISO 400, 2 second exposure, F/5.6 The closer view of the clouds was at 75mm focal length, ISO 400, 3.2 second exposure, F/5.6 All images were taken in the early hours of 12th July 2022. Equipment Canon 600D (Camera Body) Canon EF 18-55mm Lens, Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III (Camera Lenses) Photoshop was used for post processing and used Camera Raw Filter. Cheers, good luck to all, and clear skies. William

What is eyeball? Is it a software or do you mean our own eyes?