Stuart1971

I have just received one of these focusers from AstrOasis for a full review, which I will be putting together in the next few weeks…but first impressions is that it’s a really nice bit of kit and seems to work really well…👍🏻

24 minutes ago, Elp said:

To make this a bit clearer, a monitor will switch on when supplied power from an off state and will show the connected pc feed as long as power save modes have been switched off on the pc (screensavers also need to be turned off so you can see the operating system UI). This means the pc is constantly on.

If power save mode is enabled on the pc, a newly powered monitor will switch on briefly, then also revert to a standby mode or no signal mode due to the pc being in standby or sleep mode and not transmitting a signal over the video connection.

But none of that makes a difference to what the OP asked for, he wants to be able to switch a monitor on and off via Alexa whether by voice command or an app when he is at the eyepiece, why..? Who knows…

So using a smart plug gives this option, the monitor is turned on at its switch, and left on, and then it can be turned on and off via the smart plug, it’s then up to him to sort out the PC and power saving functions and so on and so fourth…as that was not mentioned….but easy enough to configure…

59 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

when i plug my screen on it is in standbye  mode so awaiting a signal as scans all modes so no need to press a power button i have a Samsung and HP monitor ? So a Smart plug works as i tried it

 

Yes I tried it too, and would work just as the OP asked for….🤷🏼‍♂️🤷🏼‍♂️

15 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

you can setup a routine so monitor on/off with a smart plug

 

Yes, that too….but does not seem to fit the OP’s needs…..🤷🏼‍♂️

3 hours ago, fwm891 said:

The Beelink and Remote Desktop sound a good option and I can use the current laptop for that task. I’ve always been dubious about electronics and *bay but will take a look…

I have a Mele Overclock 3c for sale in the classifieds….👍🏻

Maybe I am missing something, but you buy a monitor, and an Alexa smart plug, and plug the monitor into the smart plug, smart plug into the wall outlet, turn the monitor on, and then control it on and off through the smart plug, via an app on smartphone or tablet, or via voice if you have an Alexa unit…….simples….🤷🏼‍♂️

@fireballxl5 @bosun21 cheers guys, I was finding it hard and even starting to doubt myself…..😂

Of course you will have to leave the monitor turned on by its own on/off switch and then control form the smart plug..

Just tried one on my monitor and it worked….

1 hour ago, michaelmorris said:

That would turn it off, but not sure it would turn it on again!

Yes it would of course….the plug will turn it on and off, but when it’s turned on, if there is no live PC connected it will go on to standby after a few seconds just like it would anyway…

I have used them for years on all sorts of things…

57 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Thanks, Clarkey! I'm still a bit wary of connecting it direct to the battery and with no regulation. In the quick start it shows the 4C using either the 12V mains power adapter connected via the right hand (looking at the rear) usb c socket,  else supplied from a PD supported monitor type C via the left hand usb c. Presumably the right hand usb doesn't use PD but expects a flat, regulated 12V.  I wish they were more explicit!

Cheers

Louise

No, as I showed you earlier taken from there spec, it does not expect 12v from either port, it can take 12v to 18v on one port and 12v to 20v on the other, it does not have to be a flat regulated 12v at all…..

1 hour ago, Thalestris24 said:

Oh Stuart you could have said "Well I can assure you mine is powered from my Astro power box that just shoved out 13.4v and has worked this way for a while now…." before!

 

Would it really have made any difference….you obvioulsy had reservations about using anything other than the cheap Chinese 12v adapter supplied with the PC

The PC can run on any DC power supply, that can put out anything between 12 and 18v, on either of the 2 USB C ports…it’s as simple as that…the PC will just draw the power it needs from the connected supply, that’s how the PD works, simple as that….whether it be a DC power supply of some description, or lead acid battery, a Lifepo battery or a potato battery….as long as it’s between 12 and 18v

1 minute ago, Thalestris24 said:

Yes but doesn't the usb c PD require two-way communication in order to negotiate the voltage? I'm only thinking 12.8V isn't 12.0V and it could potentially be problematic... I'll look into it a bit more. I'll ask Mele too but I'm sure they'll say the PC must only be used with the provided mains adapter or an active PD. Their quick start leaflet shows it being powered from either the 12V mains adapter or via a monitor with PD.  As you say, it's probably ok to connect up to the battery but there would be no current limiter so it could go boom! I'll look further into the trigger boards.

Cheers

Louise

Well I can assure you mine is powered from my Astro power box that just shoved out 13.4v and has worked this way for a while now….

Never used the 12v supply that came with it, which BTW is not a power delivery power supply, that part is built into the PC 

‘But I will bow out now

Good luck

Just add a cheap Alexa enabled smart plug to any monitor….👍🏻

You don’t have to power it from anything that has power delivery technology as that is built into the PC not the power supply, so just use a DC power source that supplies between 12v and 20v and all is good…

4 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Thanks Stuart, however I was asking if I can power the Mele direct from the battery, in which case there is no active power delivery communication involved. I'm wondering if I really need to incorporate some sort of standalone PD controller (if there is such a thing?)  in between the battery and the PC? Or am I overthinking it? I'm ignorant of PD systems and whether they default to a particular value. Perhaps without an active PD the Mele won't work at all?? I've just come across things called  power delivery trigger boards - maybe that's what I need?

Cheers

Louise

Sorry but I think you are over thinking it

It can be powered for any DC power supply that delivers 12v to 18v or 20v depending on which port you power it from

So if you are using the normal USB C power input port on the PC, then up to 20v, so if you are using a 12v battery, then I have no idea what the issue is….🤔🤔

This is from there spec sheet

You can actually power this PC through either of the USB C ports, one you can use up to 18v, and the other one I believe up to 20v, as this PC has built in power delivery system 👍🏻

32 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Not sure if this question is in the right place... Anyway, I'm just wondering if anyone knows (for sure) whether it's ok to power my recently purchased Mele quieter 4C directly from a 12V LiFePO4 battery or do I need something in between? I feel it should be ok but the battery pumps out 12.8V and I don't want to risk bricking the Mele!

Appreciate any expert knowledge and lived experience on this!

Thanks.

Louise

Absolutely fine as this PC can take up to 18v input, and will just take what it needs….i use one too on a 13.8v supply…👍🏻

2 minutes ago, DaveS said:

The SX combined Autofocuser and Active Optics does look very interesting but probably very expensive. it would be interesting to know the bore.

I agree, SX kit is superb, but always on the very expensive side, I have been waiting for them to bring out an IMX571 based camera, but now they are, I dare not ask the price…😮😮

1 minute ago, Rob_Jn said:

The beta version was what I installed originally but anyway went ahead again with admin this time and I was very hopeful because for the first time oddly the QHY5III appeared with the QHY5II, so ticked both boxes, restarted and alas again no drivers installed and camera wouldn’t work. Time to roll back 🤔

Not sure if it will help, but I would install all the camera drivers available in the list when installing the driver, as I have a feeling I did the same as you and it didn’t work when I first got my camera…

This is going to happen more and more now, just buy a cheap £500 scope and use BlurX….😂

I think you should always aim to get the best possible collimation, and tilt adjusted out, at the end of the day you have paid a lot for the scope, so why be happy with it working about as well as as one that would have been 1/4 of the price…in my eyes you will have wasted a lot of money….

I really wouldn’t go down the QHY beta route, the stable drivers from QHY are pretty dire at the best of times, hence why I don’t upgrade from a 2022 version, it’s not worth the trouble….especially with latest windows 11…

But that’s just me….🤷🏼‍♂️

You won’t go far wrong with buying any of the available CMOS IMX571 based cameras, which is what the ASI2600 is along with the QHY268, which I have both mono and colour models.

It’s a perfect APS-C size sensor and a good pixel size, hight sensitivity and low noise, no amp glow, I think these cameras will be around for a very long time… if you want al, the same spec in a smaller sensor, depending on your set up, then the IMX533 seems to fit that bill, known as the 2600’s little brother and 1” square sensor, yes a square sensor so no need to worry about framing or rotating as much…

1 hour ago, Rob_Jn said:

That’s very helpful thanks. Of the files you mention none are familiar to me when I browsed through all the usual folders for a driver so I suspect the all in one package isn’t installing correctly. I’ll give it a go tomorrow and see if I can connect it to the driver if it’s there on my system.

The odd WestBridge entry does disappear when I disconnect the camera.

I think it may be to do with the boxes you are selecting or not selecting during the driver set up process…

You should select the cameras and the ASCOM driver ONLY when installing, whatever happens do not select any of the software boxes, such as NINA or Sharpcap, as it uninstalls the proper SDK for the QHY and re installed the one included with the driver, and the NINA devs will tell you this is bad….really bad…

Also if you forget to select a certain box, it will assume that you want that particular item uninstalled, if it is already installed, it’s an awful driver and QHY will not change the way it works as the NINA devs again have tried to tell them on numerous occasions…

11 minutes ago, Rob_Jn said:

What version is it, I could try that…

I’m using the one that was the latest version when I bought the camera, which was approx March 2022..and the camera firmware is the same as what it came with from 2021, when I assume is was made, but there are newer drivers and firmware for this camera….but if it ain’t broke…….👍🏻