Robindonne

4 hours ago, johninderby said:

I’ll decide tomorrow. 🤔

Emailed Widescreen about it this morning but no reply but Astrograph stocks it at the same price. Not dealt with them before but they seem well thought of on SGL

 

 

Serious? This is a coincidence. I didnt see this thread. Did we get to the technosky last week by some sort of commercial/or other thread? I somehow ended on their website and was curious too.  Ill follow your post and the reviews you receive from other users.  Although its something different. 

4 hours ago, Highburymark said:

Skywatcher can absorb the biggest price hike?

I quess thats part of the reason.  Im afraid prices won’t drop in the future.   Why? The uk for example is now on the level of other european countries. It was always a mistery to me why gear bought in the uk was so much cheaper. We have had also announcements here in NL and Germany from some shops. And they raised prices long ago.  The Uk and in particular FLO had always a stable price.   Its sad.   After the announcement i woke up with a headache😑

Is anyone familiar with this telescope in combination with AP.   
Its a 152/1216 triplet, probably brought out with multiple names  

The whole covid price increase thing changed my mind a bit.  Not that its dramatic but while still searching for something new, i put the idea of saving for an esprit on hold.

it will be my first triplet, but the scope from the link is an fpl-51. Im not sure how big of a deal when used in a triplet, so i’d better ask among users if this telescope is more “colorful” than a much more preferred fpl-53 combi.  
 

https://www.tecnosky.eu/index.php/tecnosky-apo-152-1216-lanthanum.html

2 hours ago, theropod said:

I have exact same mount, and the polar scope reticle was out of whack to me, so I fixed it. The three grub screws that lock down the reticle only need a little loosening and the reticle will free up. I set mine on a distant lone pine on a ridge a few miles away. I also pointed the reticle with the 12 o’clock straight up. I used the edge of my patio door frame as a guide to set the vertical bar of the reticle to plumb. If you do move the reticle be VERY careful about those grub screws. They are tiny and so easy to drop if backed out of the threads too much. I would also take care when tightening them back as to not strip the threads and or not crack the reticle. So, I say that if the reticle bothers you it’s no biggie to fix. It took me longer to modify an Allen key with a whet stone to fit the tiny little grub screws than to fix the issue. They’re supposed to be 2.5mm, but mine were a touch small.

And dont forget to calibrate after loosening the 3 screws.   Check tonight if a star at crosshair center is still as crosshair center when you turn the ra axis.  Orherwise adjust it with these 3 hex screws you loosened during that reticle job.  

16 hours ago, Greymouser said:

Got these today, which was very pleasing. Now I just need to try them out...

Tell me, will I be doomed as soon as I try out the green and black thingy?

Its an unwritten rule of the community to send hearts as soon as someone shows the poison green.  💚🖤

Noticed some moments the same problem.  I have no glasses or other eye issues as far i know. It happened once or twice.  Dont know if its because, by the time i use bino’s, my eyes have been active for 16+ hours.  

They just throw that piece of glas in the polarscope and you can do some un-clutching and twisting yourself to get the clock in good position.  Its normal.  But you can remove te polarscope and carefully remove the front(eye) side, ánd the 3 hex calibration screws on the front/side to rotate the glass with the map.   I would mark the 12 hour position on the polarscope before you unscrew it from the mount.  
 

As soon as you have the polarscope removed from the mount to adjust the glass, you need that 12 hour mark to align both.  

A new one!!!! Yes!!! Hello

https://www.astroboot.eu/AstroBoot/binoculars-and-bino-parts.html
 

saw some cheap complete binoculars with a 1/4 cap.  At least one for £9,- with a cap

Any idea if Celestron will follow? Dont know where they ship from but im afraid for more news😐

Asiair is a beautiful system.  But when the mini pc is already available...hard question whats the best direction. Both the asiair and ppb aren’t safe for powering the Mount.  So you probably need 2 normal or one big psu.  

Im not sure about future cameras but zwo is the only brand supported by the asiair. 
im also not sure about the wifi capabilities of a mini pc.  The asiair wifi is a bit weak.

okay i cant help😬
 

Do a coinflip. That way you cant blame yourself afterwards 

Please guys.  Wear triple masks.  We have to get out of this skywatcher-increased-situation.  

Is this balance issue a design flaw/fail?   Is it a combi of the scope being always “lower” because of the “z” shape of the axis, and minor level errors? The higher the altitude the bigger the problem. Or is it solved already in other parts of the design?

23 minutes ago, festoon said:

 

Oh thanks.   With images.🤩.  Looks very ugly.  
 

Conclusion: not worth it?

also just realize the secondary is way bigger than sct thread

43 minutes ago, festoon said:

you only get a limited image circle limited to 1/3"

Well i think that will just work.   I use a dslr at this moment.  For the sct probably a small 462 camera.  Or maybe not😬
 

38 minutes ago, Peter Drew said:

don't think this will work.

I have really zero experience with this method.   A c11 and hyperstar is getting to expensive for me.  While searching for alternatives i came across some discussions about this method.  
Funstar and freestar for example.  
They just dont show any images to compare.   
 

Do you think its possible to select a flattener based on an image? To improve most parts of the image.

Very nice.  Is picture 5 the c9.25 in your arms?   

Oke probably it will give some bad results. But im wondering if anyone compared a hyperstar image and an image from the camera attached to the correctorplate without the hyperstar.   Im not yet in a phase where i get nightmares from elongated stars. But i do suffer from a continuous changing shoppingcart. Buy a big skymax and rasa for fast AP, or skip all these and buy a c11.  Planetary and high powered is what I prefer for visual use.   For better AP i will continue to use recractors i quess.  

The secondary mirror should have the sct thread like the visual back. Im just not sure if its really horrible, imaging that way.  
 

Or best to go and search the 3.3 sc reducer?

Or skip the whole c11 imaging idea?

Or....😣

Please dont let this thread fall asleep

Yes 12v 6A should be fine.  5.5x2.1 center positive. 13v is even better but 12v is more common

I dont even know where i stored my scope. Must be somewhere under the mail

I’m planning to buy some More Blue accessories from FLO. I now need help choosing a scope that matches the color of the accessories.   

I once build a hobby project that could be used in this setup.   It didnt have the drive system though.  But that would be possible by adding one motorized wheel in your wheel rail/system.   
 

The hobby project had 2 (ultrasonic)distance sensors.  One or two sensors attached to the dome and aimed at a solid point that moves around(your mount), could let the dome follow the movement of the mount.  
 

a slipping wheel in your rail wouldn’t cause any problems because it will ride the roof until the sensors measure the given needed distance
 

although you need some programming for this setup😬

4 minutes ago, Robindonne said:

17 minutes ago, John said: