mackiedlm

I agree with whats already said, not much wrong with that. What are you using for processing because I do think you have more in the data than you are showing.

So after 7 weeks of unremitting cloud I finally got the new camera outside. for all of 90 minutes before Orion started to get too low and clouds started to build again.

But at least I got an image. This is 15 each of 180s, 120s and 60s. I did that partly to get a handle on how the camera performs and of course to try to get some detail in the core.

SW 80ED, NEQ6, ASI2600mc pro, L-eNhance

It is stacked in APP using the Ha-Oiii colour algorithm then a very quick hash through in Pixinsight.

Overall I'm pretty happy with it - a bit grainy when you zoom in hard  and I'm not sure if that's because of the limited integration or my cack-handed processing. I think that to try to show the dust I pushed it further than the limited data could take. I'll give it another go after extracting the Ha and Oiii signals in APP

But still, for 90 mins its not too bad I think.

8 hours ago, Nikodemuzz said:

Interestingly, my phone shows the images with a hefty boost in contrast and saturation compared to my (calibrated) display. I wonder which version you see.

Great first go with this technique . Well done indeed. I'm looking on my phone and for me the colours look really good, red is very slightly pink but not enough to worry about and contrast is spot on. I'll look on the computer later but I've had that same problem in the past sometimes with wide variation between monitor and phone / tablet. I think I read somewhere that its an intrinsic difference in the way the screens work. I have adjusted my monitor to try to get them close as I think in this day and age our images are seen more on mobile screens than computers.

Looking forward to seeing more of your images.

That's a nice image and I'm sure you could get more blue in it. Have a look at this tutorial. 

I have used that technique with L-enhance data to produce some reasonable results like

https://astrob.in/gc842f/B

And

https://astrob.in/ye7dzb/0

Good luck.

My first attempt with this challenge. Processed In PixInsight with some finishing touches in PS.

Done as HSO as I'm not really comfortable with the SHO pallet yet. I wanted to emphasise the ghost and his tail and minimise y-Cas. I did this with much masking and stretching in PI

Lovely data like this makes processing so much easier and I really did not have to do that much to it

In Pixinsight;

Decon and a gentle denoise (MLT) on the Ha

Stretched all three gently using HT - further stretches with Star masks and range masks to focus on the nebula and keep y Cas in check. LHE (very gentle) on Ha

Combined in SHO-AIP script - several different blends until I got what I was looking for but essentially HSO with some of the Sii in red and some of the Ha in blue (I think!) with Ha as a luminance.

Some tweaking with HT and CT

Saved as 16bit Tiff and into Photoshop

Some very minor masked selective colour adjustment to the orange and blue

A selective high-pass on the "head and arms" of the ghost and a few other areas to bring out some structure.

All done!

EDIT -Rev 2 placed after Carbonis actions to bring some colour back to the stars.

Yes they will but you need to make sure the m42 to eos adapter states "infinity focus" as some of the thicker ones will not.

I have an old Pentacon 135mm which I used on my canon 1100d and sky adventurer a few times. I was just starting out in AP but was delighted with the results. CA was not noticeable and no obvious coma except out in the far corners.

Here are 2 images with it. They are not very good but like I say, I was just starting out

https://www.astrobin.com/q7jg0g/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce=

https://www.astrobin.com/4c5g0f/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce=

I also have a Takumar 200mm  which I think is fantastic so i think you could do worse than try a Takumar.

https://www.astrobin.com/8ceusq/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce=

HTH

As I said in your other thread about this, if you can't reduce brightness of the panel put some layers of t shirt or paper between until you get a decent exposure time. 

Look in the APT users manual under CCD Flats Aid - its all explained there.

Once the flat plan is populated and complete, clone it (in the plans editor panel) as a dark flat and off you go.

LED panel over scope is fine but you may need to put some layers of paper or t-shirt between it and the scope unless you can adjust the brightness way down.

On 24/01/2021 at 20:15, Dr_Ju_ju said:

You should be good to go, for me, I've been on 6.5 for a long time with no issues....

Thanks Julian,

So I have gone ahead and updated ascom platform and have tested it quite hard. Seems to be fine, although not used it in an imaging session yet.

Thanks for your comment. No light leak. Take a look at the other thread below. It seems this is normal on the 2600 if yo ulook at a master in APP.  A master in PI looks like yours. I think the difference is that in PI it's not been debayerd .

Thanks again.

Remember I'm new at this too so I could be making errors so "follow at your own risk"🙂. 

I'm intending to limit my imaging parameters, at least in the early days, so that I can see how I progress with the minimum of variables. So I'm going to have two imaging schemes at gain 0 and gain 100 both at ofset 50 and -10c. I had intended to go to -15 but as I'm doing these inside a warm house the cooler was struggling to get past -12. And I didn't have the enthusiasm to set up in the shed.

So in APT look at setting up an imaging plan, the manual explains it well. Set up a new dark frame plan, and enter a line for each of the image durations you think you may use. I'm not sure what that will be for me so to be safe I did a set for each of 30, 60,90, 120,180 and 240s. Probably overkill. With my DSLRs I ended up doing pretty much everything at 180 or 240s ISO 800. At 40 subs per duration that plan takes over 8 hours so I hit start and went to bed.

Take care if doing gain 0 as i mentioned before.

On warming, I've seen various comments saying that its essential to warm slowly and others saying it's a waste of effort. But it's not a cheap camera so I'll be doing it. It seems to me that all you can do is warm it to ambient, so after my indoor dark plans I set it to warm to 20c or so and stopped it there. I need to work out what to do if I'm outside and it's cold but I'm guessing I'll warm it to outside ambient then put it in its padded bag, bring it inside to a cool room and let it warm like that. I suspect the pouch will allow a nice slow warm up.

Any other recommendations from anyone else?

BTW, if you have Sharcap read up about the smart histogram feature, that will help you work out your best exposure times. Its what I will use if I ever get a clear sky.

Good luck!

I'm in much the same boat as you having recieved my 2600mc on Monday and been working on setting it up to build a dark frame library. From reading and checking various sites I'm going with offset 50, usb 40 and the dew heater on (the last only because I expect to use it most of the time so might as well do darks that way too). Im doing 2 sets 1 at gain 100 and one at gain 0 because there seems to be much discussion on which is best. If you are going to do gain 0 then make sure you have gain 0 set in field at bottom right. If you enter it as 0 in your dark plan it comes up as " and will then use the setting entered in bottom right. I only found this out after running a full dark plan that was supposed to be 0 gain but ended up 100.

HTH

11 hours ago, gorann said:

Thanks a lot! Yes, I also like to see how these things relate to each other. I usually also see them as single objects. Surfing on Aladin sky atlas gives me a lot of aha-moments about iconic nebula actually being neighbours.

Yes, I have read somewhere that some of our individual DSO targets are not only neighbours but are actually part of the same complex or entity. I find this fascinating when we consider the sizes of many of these objects - even individually I find it difficult to visualize their enormous size. These scales are just so far removed from out experience.

I really enjoy this type of image. It gives a great perspective to several objects usually seen close up and alone and puts them all into context. Fantastic image.

That is a wonderful image. So much depth and such great color. Fantastic!

I've had the stripes in every CMOS master dark I've made, 3x DSLRs and a Hypercam 269c I had for a short time so I don't think that's odd or unusual at all. Remember those images are well stretched.

🤣 And that is why its sometimes better not to look at certain things !!

5 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

This is my master dark, 30s, gain 100, offset 50, temp -10.

 

Thanks Adam, that looks exactly the same as mine. I got a reply from a Mod on the APP forum saying his is the same with no issue in final images and showing an image almost identical to ours. So seems like I'm just being paranoid!

22 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

Can’t help except to add that I’ve observed this with my 2600MC also. I’ll be interested in the replies 👍🏻

12 minutes ago, kirkster501 said:

Mine too.  I am sure it is fine.

Thanks guys, that makes me feel less concerned. Adam, I saw your first light with yours and there was no obvious issue with calibration - it was a great image.

I just need to now wait for the compulsory post purchase clouds to clear and get some data.

Thanks again

David

Folks,

I have just recieved my new ASI2600 MC Pro and am building a dark frame library.

When I apply a very strong stretch to a master dark in APP it shows a distinct colour gradient left to right. Is this normal or is it an indication of an issue with the sensor/camera/method of taking dark frames?I have never seen this before on any dark frames.

JPG of a stretched masterdark G100/Offset50/-10C

Thanks for any help

Folks,

I have just recieved my new ASI2600 MC Pro and am buidling a dark frame library.

When I apply a very strong stretch to a master dark in APP it shows a distinct colour gradient left to right. Is this normal or is it an indication of an issue with the sensor/camera/method of taking dark frames?I have never seen this before on any dark frames.

JPG of a stretched masterdark G100/Offset50/-10C

Thanks for any help

Glad you got out after such a long hiatus. Skys seem awful everywhere right now.

And that's a pretty good image all things considered. Great colours and good definition

fantastic image - love it!

Great image. The L-eNhance is definitely a bit of a game changer for us OSC imagers. I have found that if I'm close to a bright moon I do get some leakage on the Oii  band but it can usually be managed and it makes the difference between getting the kit out or sitting brooding in front of the TV!