Altocumulus

Now that one I like .... ^^^^^

O gawd - that yellow!

If it were that simple....We're granite with some sandstone.

I * *coughs* * just used spectacle fluid .... * * coughs * * ... It cleaned 99% of mine...

Although that was after I'd gotten a replacement.

Drop a line to Lunt, or Bresser.de and see what they reckon on the diagonal....

Nice shots.

PS - Can someone tell the Sun to WAKE UP!!!!

3 minutes ago, Freddie said:

Yes, if the ROI moves to a different position on the sensor, that new position may have dust specks that the original position does not have. The flat is used to both even out illumination across the FOV as well as remove dust specks from the image.

I was aware that you can change the size of the ROI but I wasn’t aware that you could move a given ROI to a different position on the chip.

It was something I discovered yesterday morning, the ROI on the sensor is moveable. So that suggests it's best to move the 'scope and keep the same light path (as much as possible).

3 minutes ago, Freddie said:

You only need to do it once. So maybe get set up, set your gain and exposure to roughly what you will be using in your imaging session, defocus, take your flat and you are done.

Ok, thanks.....I think!

Does ROI not come into it at all?

28 minutes ago, Freddie said:

For a flat, just defocus on an area of the surface with no features. No need to mess about with all that other stuff.

A question on flats, Freddie, if I may.

I've recently started using cameras with a larger sensor, up from the 120MM.

I've allocated a size on the sensor.

So far I've been moving the ROI around as appropriate, on the sensor.

Am I right in thinking each new move requires a fresh flat? If so I'd guess, next, that it would be more efficient

to leave the ROI 'fixed' on the sensor, create a flat on that position - and then move the 'scope?

Do I have that thinking correct?

I wish I could say the same! We've a lot of haze and cirrus here..

Look on the bright side - other than a few proms, there's not a lot happening (still!)

Removed a couple of AS3! files, and somewhat faster and complete operation this morning. Poor seeing, though!

My 'feeble' - no flats

INv Prom.bmp

Yes, I could see those, but my seeing I guess was poorer than yours! I'll have a better idea when AS3 has finished....

In answer to the earlier question on size - I was, as it as the first time with the 178, running with full chip.

I've seen many a discussion on .SER or .AVI that makes my head spin - and certainly some points above make it spin even more. .SER retains more data in the envelope, than .AVI - that is easy to understand.

For the time being I shall see what I can get away with whilst staying with .SER (as I tend to use Sharpcap).

Have downloaded that .pdf for a bit of light reading.

Thanks all....

First time for me this morning with a 178 chip - Lunt LS60 Tha - 201 frames, almost 1GB of data (.ser) and my laptop (i7 8GB Ram) is almost frozen running AS3! on one video. Sheesh!

Looks like I'll be dropping to .avi tomorrow, or reducing the area of capture!

Even my 174 on white light froze on AS3!

Good fun this solar imaging lark....

Great shot!

Yesterday was my day, or so I thought, until I ran into unexpected technical issues!

Cloudy again this day..... !

NEQ6-R. Imaging.

Ok, what do folks do if they need to re-balance their setup? Say after changing a lighter/heavier camera, or adding barlow.

Does the mount / ASCOM have a memory of position that will correctly compensate if it's not placed exactly back in the parked position?

With the best will in the world if I use small marks on the axes, it doesn't take more than a whisker out to throw out careful alignment!

I agree a PC is probably better - not least because it can be more easily upgraded / added to.

USB 3 is a must - I get half-frame images on a USB 2 port on the Pegasus Ultimate (though that might be it's a hub, and some don't appreciate hubs!).

Actually, make that two legs....

Caution - Only those specifically made for Solar work = ££. and not those used at night!

Or possibly CaK?

Solar finder - 1 cm bore tube, maybe 20-30cm long (preferably black). Add an opaque red cap to one end. Attach in parallel to your OTA, with red end downwards. When red end glows, you're there (ish).

Alternatively use the 'spiral' tracking on the ascom panel....

Stunning John.

As has been the case for a while, now, we're still stuck under cloud.

Ironically I threw away a box, this morning, that came from First Light Optics - on it is the warning - "May contain clouds!".

Pfft!