banjaxed

Visual only for me as I don’t think I will live long enough to match  quality of images posted here 😊

Thanks again for your reply. As I will only be using AZ mode it looks like it just needs the latest firmware installed. All I need to do is find somewhere that explains how to do it 🙂

I think part of my problem is my app needs upgrading as your screen looks different to mine. In settings my version is 1.17.1 so I will try and find the latest version. I just noticed that you have yours in EQ mode, would that make much difference to the menu screen ?

Thank you very much for your very detailed and helpful explanation, it is very much appreciated.

10 minutes ago, knobby said:

Reset alignment gives it a 'fresh' start ... I never bother though.

In 2 star align, you choose 2 stars then begin alignment, th mount slews to first star ... Approximately, then you manually center star with keypad, then again on 2nd star.

Also, in settings - connection you can choose emulator so you can play with the app without connecting the mount. Just remember to change it back afterwards or you'll be in a dark field one night trying to connect and after 20 minutes you'll remember !

 

You could try fleece lined trousers as they are very warm and are easily to wear.

I would be obliged if anyone could help with this problem. The information in the app says ‘erase previous alignment data for a fresh start’ but after searching all the info I can’t find any information on how to erase the previous data. Another question please. When using the 2 star alignment method do you have to manually point at the first star ?

Thank you.

Hi Martin, welcome to SGL.

Thank you John and Cornelius your explanation is now apparent, it’s funny when things are explained clearly how obvious it becomes. I still have a lot to learn.

I am a bit confused as to how a Goto tracking mount can know how fast or slow to track an object when using different magnifications. The reason I am asking is the last time I was looking at Saturn with my push to 8” Dob it was obvious how much quicker it moved with higher magnification and I am confused as to how a mount can perform this task.

Hi and welcome back to SGL.

Hi Lee, welcome to SGL.

Hi Philip,

Tap the First Light Optics sign at the top of the home page then tap eye pieces, then Baader where you will find what you are looking for.

Hi and welcome to SGL.

Hi and welcome to SGL.

2 hours ago, bingevader said:

Check your drawtube has a screw thread then, as that adaptor screws straight into it.

I doubt I'd reach focus if I only pulled my EPs out by 12mm and fastened them there!

I checked the drawtube and it does not have a thread.  I have located a 40mm extension adapter which I will order and see how it goes.

Many thanks to all who replied with all your helpful suggestions.

1 hour ago, Star Struck said:

I have. It is 35mm.

 

Great, thank you very much for the info, much appreciated.

1 hour ago, Star Struck said:

I have one 2" eyepiece in my 200P dob that needs a 50mm, but all the rest are happy with 35mm.

That has made things more uncertain. Has anyone here got the original adapter supplied with the telescope ?

6 minutes ago, pregulla said:

I am using 40mm with mine. All 2" eyepieces I tried come to focus with it (Aero ED 35mm, Meade QX 26mm, ES82 30mm, SkyWatcher SWA70 32mm). I also use it with 1.25" to 2" adapter which is about 10mm tall and all my 1.25" eyepieces come to focus. I also know that 50mm was too much for SkyWatcher SWA70 32mm, I didn't try with others.

Thank you very much for the info, I will order the 40mm adapter.

1 hour ago, Louis D said:

You could try the TS-Optics Skywatcher 2" adapter.

Thanks for the reply, but I think it needs to be a certain length to obtain focus.

 I was hoping someone with the same scope could tell me what length it is.

Sorry, It’s a Skywatcher 200P.

I am thinking of trying a 2” eyepiece in my Dob but the adapter that comes with the scope was missing from mine. Could anyone please let me know what length the adapter needs to be.

Thanks in advance.

Hi and welcome to SGL.

Hi and welcome to SGL.

1 hour ago, Rusted said:

It is not usual to have to clean between the glass elements of an objective.
So leave it assembled and clean only the front [and back] if necessary!

Blower first and then only drape a lens tissue in gentle, radial movements.
Never rub hard! No matter how disgusting you have let the precious lens become.

There is a considerable risk to any lens removal and replacement from its cell.
The problem is the lens getting out of square and jamming fast in its cell.
So just tipping the lens out of its cell is the worst possible thing to do!
This error is likely to lead to a scallop of glass being cracked away from the lens surface.
Usually from the softer and weaker flint.

There is a simple method to lens removal and replacement which helps to keep the lens square to its cell.
It involves a suitably sized short, drinking glass with a piece of cloth or several tissues placed on the rim to protect the lens.
The short glass having already been placed on a firm table at which you are sitting comfortably.
Swab please, Nurse? Now send her out of the room. You don't want any distractions!

First you unscrew the retaining ring and place it safely aside on the table.
Then you lower the cell with its objective over the drinking glass while keeping the cell horizontal.
So that the lens is left behind, lying on top of the protected glass.
With the cell now resting safely down on the table around the glass.

Now carefully check the lens for edge marks or arrows. There should be pencil lines across both elements.
The lens must be reassembled so that the marks match their original position and orientation.
To do otherwise may result in serious optical problems or damage.
Photograph the lens maker's marks if you can.
Or make a drawing and keep it safe from marauding kids or negligent wives!!
Send them on holiday first! Or take a day off work while they are at finishing school.
This will help to ensure the lenses are re-assembled in the correct order and orientation.

Reversing the procedure involves placing the lens sky face down onto the protected drinking glass.
With the objective cell already lying on the table, the same way up as before, around the glass.

You then LIFT the cell slowly and carefully around the lens until it rests safely inside the cell.
Lower the cell again at the slightest sign of jamming and be more careful with your levelling of the cell.

Once insertion is achieved, the cell and its objective are laid down on the table.
Ready for for the retaining ring to be replaced.
DO NOT PUT IT BACK DOWN ON TOP OF THE GLASS!
NEVER TIGHTEN THE RETAINING RING TOO TIGHTLY!

There should always be the slightest rattle in an assembled objective
Unless, of course, a compression ring is part of the design.
Remember where the ring went! Front or back? In between?
Any spacer rings? YOU MADE NOTES or took photographs, or both didn't you?
The sky face of the lens will always be facing downwards before re-assembly.

Those of nervous disposition may like to start with the supporting glass half full of whiskey.
[Or a spirit of your own choosing.]
Which may ONLY be consumed afterwards as a reward for success!
Or ONLY afterwards to drown your sorrows for abject failure.
Probably leading to a nasty flake being gashed from the surface...
of the priceless, historical and utterly irreplaceable, 24" Zeiss, Triplet, APO objective.

Great instructions, wish I had them before I started with my little project. Fortunately for me things worked out fine.

At that sort of price I think you would be better off with a Skywatcher 9X50 RACI finder scope. I wouldn't be without mine.