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OJ87

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Posts posted by OJ87

  1. 13 hours ago, ebdons said:

    Hi, not sure on your mount but my EQ6 pro sometimes gives me that error when the balance is wrong or the clutches are not tight enough, and also I reverse the direction one way or another until it stabilises the image? not saying that you may have done this already? ton

    Hi ton,

    I'm sorry, but I didn't get what did you mean by (reversing the direction till image stabilisation)? Could clear it for me?

    Thank you

  2. 12 hours ago, michael8554 said:

    The dumbell shaped stars are due to backlash. The mount has spent some of the 120 secs at one end of its backlash,  then flopped  to the other end, giving two stars joined by a trail.

    On some shots this hasn't happened, so balance must be right on the edge.

    Could also be Periodic Error, with the good shots coinciding with the PE peaks where RA change is least, but I prefer Backlash as the cause.

    Balance slightly heavy in one direction.

    Michael 

    Thanks Michael, 

    but does backlash comes so frequently? I have such lines approximately in every 10min. 

    Does also backlash explain the reversed directions of the stars?

     

  3. 40 minutes ago, david_taurus83 said:

    Was it windy by any chance? That's a big scope you've got in your signature. At that focal length you'll really want good polar alignment and good guiding.

    Hi David, 

    No it was a still night. No wind at all. 

    Polar aligning was with eyeballing, it wasn't perfect. But if it was bad, how I got that good images? Good images rate was 1:3. 

  4. Hi everyone, 

    Last night I started imaging, I took about 30 * 120sec . 

    I tried it without Autoguiding, because my laptop didn't want to wake up 😞

    Some of photos were awesome, others were with beginning trails, other with terrible trails. All of them were mixed, I mean after a good shot I got a very bad one and so on... If it was bad polar alignment I wouldn't get any good shots, if it was good , then why I'm getting the bad one? Any ideas why would that come from?

    Best regards, 

  5. Thanks everyone,

     

    6 hours ago, tooth_dr said:

     To save yourself money remove the legs from your tripod and use the top piece as your adapter on top of the concrete pier.

      

     

     

    That's actually a good idea, the concrete costs isn't the biggest problem, but the adapter cost (Around 140€ for eq6), my budget is on limits, so any save if possible are always welcome. I may fix the adapter on the top and make it removable, if I want to upgrade out in future or if I want to go out of town. Thanks Tooth_dr

     

    6 hours ago, NGC 1502 said:

     

    The observatory column is usually concreted deep into a large volume of concrete.   If you did that with a tripod you’d have either 3 large concrete blocks or one enormous block.   Tripod legs tend to get in the way, a column much less so, also depending on how long the optical tube is, at some positions the lower end of the tube contacts the legs necessitating the “meridian flip” that interrupts imaging or visual.

     

    I have to say this mention has changed my mind to making a column, my 1000mm tube comes in contact with legs at some point and making meridian flip cause me a lot of pain. I don't know how I missed that. Thank you Ed.

  6. Hi everyone, 

    I’m thinking of building my first garden observatory with role off roof. There are a lot of good ideas in internet, but most of them includes building a column (or buying a one),  fixing it with cement, then buying a mount adapter and fix to the top of this column... etc. 

    I was wondering, why just not fixing the tripod legs in cement after leveling it, to save money and time?

    Best regards,

     

  7. 1 hour ago, masjstovel said:

     

    I meant 2.1mm, or it fits perfectly.
    I Attached a photo. Norwegian electric systems use 240V. I see its separated in PRI (priority) 240V 0.7A and SEC (secondary) 12V, 1.5A, so i guess i have 0.7A then since i plug it in the wall?
    I'm not into electrinics, but maybe you understand it better? 

    20190426_171647.jpg

    Hi Masjstovel, as I see in photo, your output is 1.5A when you use 12V, if it's enough or not, you must check your manual and see what S/W recommends. For my EQ6R is not enough, it requires at least 2,5A in tracking mode and 4A when I use goto. 

     

    • Like 1
  8. On 28/03/2019 at 09:48, mikey2000 said:

    The “constellations” reticule is the old version.  I believe all new SW mounts have the new circle reticule.

     

    May I politely suggest that using a polar scope for alignment is not really precise enough.   For visual, fair enough.  But for photography, I highly recommend a camera/software solution.  Eg, SharpCap. It takes just moments to do and the final adjustments are *tiny* - I don’t even see Polaris moving in the polar scope by this stage.

     

    On 28/03/2019 at 11:01, Merlin66 said:

    Mikey,

    I think we all probably know that....but the original question was what were the scales, and what where were used for......

    Thank you for info, actually for now as beginner I'll stick with alignment with polar scope, but definitely will go to camera alignment in future. 

  9. 7 hours ago, Merlin66 said:

    This circle allows you to re-orientate the internal graticule to get alignment with the polar stars...

    Covered in the SW manual, under "Procedure for Precise Polar alignment", p13 in my copy.

     

     

    Hi Merline, thanks for reply, i don't have any info in my manual how to use those circles, for aligning the polar finder there are screws to do the job , here is a photo of my manual.

    Could you please send a photo of yours if they are not the same?

    Best regards, 

    6BF1B6FB-F4C5-4D14-949A-192DFF7C93F8.jpeg

  10. 15 hours ago, SIDO said:

    Very nice, Alot of detail captured...looks great ?

    Thanks ;)

    9 hours ago, Demonperformer said:

    Great first photo. The only problem is that you have set the bar very high for yourself ... we will expect even greater things from you now :)

     

    Thank you,  I’ll try my best, 

    8 hours ago, Astro Imp said:

    Super sharp capture, well done.
    I have to say for my taste the contrast is a bit high, but hey what do I know.

     

    9 hours ago, wouterdhoye said:

    Sweet imaga. Love The high contrast. 

    Well done ?

    wouter. 

    Thanks guys, actually I had that feeling it’s lil high with contrast, but details would be fainted also.

  11. 1 hour ago, alacant said:

    Hi. We use it with aps-c and an ES f3.9. It covers the whole fov but with the small secondary on the quatrro, you'll see a lot of vignetting. HTH,

    Hi alacant, 

    thanks for answering my questions. I thought the secondary mirror of Quattro is not that small (82mm), anyway would that vignetting be acceptable/ correctable with flats or would you advise me to buy another CC and return this back?

  12. Hello everyone, 

    I recently bought this coma corrector for my Skywatcher Quattro 10S F4 , 1000mm primary for imaging with my unmodified canon 77D (APS-C sensor ) . Unfortunately I couldn't test it till now and I still have two days return guaranty. 

    I read in one article that it's made for full-frame sensors , but there is no tests at all with APS C sensor, could someone (who has this CC and tested it on such sensor ) tell me if it would "cut off" a lot of FOV? Or it may face focusing (or any other) problems?

    also I want to ask if anyone tried it with light pollution filter, specifically the Hutech IDAS LPS D1, D2 or P2? My question here is: could I attach a 2" or 58mm filter on the telescope side of CC (or between the camera and CC) without facing focus problems?

    I know there is a Clipfilter for EOS  cams, which will fit just inside the cam, but then I can't use it with EF-S lenses. 

    Best regards

  13. On 25/02/2019 at 21:29, Dinglem said:

    I've had my mount about 18 months now and absolutely love it compared to my old mount, I only have one issue and I don't know if others have the same problem, the clutches on both axes never seem to fully lock the mount, I only have to put a bit of pressure on the mount and they move. Is there any way of adjusting them?

    The same thing in my mount, i think it’s made with purpose to protect the fine  gears inside from damage caused by accidental pressure. 

     

    • Like 1
  14. Miky2000 thank you for the help.

    Now my next question is about power supply (i already read the power tanks) , I know the power demand is very variable depending on the mounts load and what else is draining your power supply. Which power supply would be save to make it save the whole night (max 8 hours) without any issues? Assuming I'll need to charge my laptop once or twice as well? 

    I read about car batteries, are they save? What else do I need to connect it with the mount? Anyone can help me? 

    Best regards, 

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