Rustang

It must be as the tiff file I'm getting out of App hardly needs doing anything to finish. I have also re done my Heart Nebula and it's also done a better job of that as well. What ever it's doing its bringing more detail forward and just adding a little extra pop to the image. The extra clarity in the details is the real difference I'm seeing and makes for a better image. 

Heart re stack below. I'm really pleased with both images. 

52 minutes ago, smr said:

Definitely improved, DSS just stacks the subs on top of eachother though doesn't it ? Surely you'd have been able to pull out the same detail in PP.

Maybe, but i would have had to stretch the crap out of it and i dont think it was there anyway! The extra detail was basically just there after APP stacked it so it didnt take much finishing in PS. To be honest I may have something not selected properly in DSS so that maybe why but I'm still very much learning all of this so probably wouldn't know what that was!.

Thanks guys, its a shame to know that, that extra detail may never have been brought out. I think I maybe purchasing APP next payday! I'm still happy finishing in PS as I've got a nice written out routine that works well

I decided to give Astro pixel processor ago so downloaded the 30 day trail. I definitely feel there is a different in the image than the above which was stacked in DSS, there's more details that's certainly come through the stack. What do you think!?

2 hours ago, alan potts said:

Lovely shot, not over saturated, well done Sir.

Alan

Thanks 👍

21 minutes ago, Adreneline said:

Very nice indeed. I like the colours and they level of detail you've revealed.

Adrian

Thanks ☺️

Well my target the other night was the North American Nebula but due to merdian flip limit issues! I went on to the Eastern Veil Nebula. I'm pleased I did because what a beautiful target. 5hrs worth of 5min subs, SW 72 ED DS PRO with Optolong L Enhance filter doing a great job, Astro modified Canon 600D and calibration frames.

I'm pretty pleased with the final image, was a little difficult to process, the background mainly which still isant great due to the banding but for a first attempt I'm happy.

6 minutes ago, alacant said:

Hi

I think it better to have the defaults ultra-safe. Otherwise you could end up doing €xk's worth of damage as the camera hits the mount. 'But no-one told me, m'lud!'  With a long tube, it could be just minutes before before collision occurs.

The first two or three flips you do, probably best to be in attendance. Or have a few dry runs in daytime using a planetarium app.

Cheers

Yup 100% I would always stand by the mount ready to switch off when ever doing anything like this until you are 100% happy with the process. I totally agree why the parameters are there, there is alot of stuff that's still new to me so its good to learn. I was just thinking a little tweak (not a couple of hours past!) to the parameters may mean that If I was to do the same again, it would bring the camera slightly closer to the mount but still be able to continue tracking. I could always do a dry run with no camera attached.  

I think its something to do with the parameters that have been set, maybe its in a 'play it really safe mode' if the current parameters see/or thinks that there's an issue (camera hitting mount etc) about to occur and stops at that 'meridian limit' I maybe wrong but I think its something to do with the weights going over the horizontal line (RA axis) so getting to high!!!? Maybe after setting slightly less 'safe' parameters it will work. I didnt do a flip though, I waited until my target was across the med line and then slewed my scope which rotated to the correct side to then track west but still stated it was at its limit, the camera to be fair was close to the mount but wasnt going to hit, maybe I didnt wait long enough for the target to cross before the scopes position was safe enough to proceed the reason I say that is because I gave up on the North American Neb and went on to the Veil, the Veil was further across the line and I had no issues with it, bang on target and off it went tracking for the night. From what I know I believe your safe around an hour after crossing (mount, equipment depending!) so maybe the parameters are not set for that to give you some wiggle room so the reason we have all reached our 'limit' is because the current settings are to tight to the med line limit!!?

I'm still learning so I've probably got all of the above wrong or not quiet right

1 hour ago, alacant said:

Hi

Set the meridian limits.

HTH

 

Cheers 👍

Glad I'm not the only one!, maybe there is a way to tweek the parameters somehow so its safe to continue when its at the limit if that makes sense!? 

Very nice, well done! 👍

So I set out tonight to shoot the North American nebula. Not wonting to mess around with doing a flip I decided to wait until 5mins after the nebula had supossibly crossed the line then sent the scope off to target. The mount slewed to what I believe was the right side but then stopped and EQ ASCOM stopped tracking and stated 'meridian limit'!? But if it was on the correct side to continue with out issues why is this the case and how would I continue the mount tracking again!? 

28 minutes ago, Pryce said:

Works like a charm! Cheers boys!

 

Now I just need to wait for the guidescope and test out with a few different weights!  And shoter bolts for the counterweight bracket of course 😂

 

👍

The first way I got my 72mm to balance was to put a medium dove tail on it which extended out of the rear but you will have to drill some extra holes in the dovetail to do so. I've now put the original dovetail back on made a bracket and a brass powered coated counter weight weighing approx 1.3kg and use it like that, works perfectly. I can also adjust the position of the weight as the bracket has a slot down the middle. I've even had to do the same to balance my 80mm.

9 hours ago, alacant said:

Hi and thanks for your reply.

Do you have an example with bright stars? it would really help us decide.

128mm is the working distance from the ff to the camera chip for fl 420mm. I suppose it could be the ff or maybe just the bright stars. I tried a different field with fewer bright stars and it came out better. Maybe need to adjust the processing. lightly does it perhaps.

Cheers and clear skies

This was one of my first attempts at the Heart Nebula before I learnt how to reduce the stars in post, captured with my 72mm. It has some bright stars but not the biggest. 

1 hour ago, mackiedlm said:

Thats really nice, excellent clarity and detail.

Thank you 😊

It doesn't necessarily answer your question but I've seen no blue with my SW 72ED DS PRO, could it be the field flattener causing it!? 🤔 how did you get the SW's 420mm fl down to 128mm or have i miss read that!?  Someone with more experience will probably be able to help more. 

4 hours ago, dark knight said:

Looking good, guiding makes a huge difference, worth all the headaches once sorted

Cheers and definitely! 😊👍

11 hours ago, Adam1234 said:

Ignoring the banding, that looks really good

Cheers 👍

So i think I've got it, my guide camera pixel scale is 3.75/225 x 206.3 = 3.4 / that by my imaging cam set up which would be 2.1 would then = 1.6 pixel so to move 12 i would need to set PHD2 to approx 6 . So then what is the 'dither distance' in APT is the question!?

1 hour ago, bottletopburly said:

Use astronomy tools to work out the scale for your guide camera , search post you should find my post on it from a few years back all explained in that 👍

Thanks mate 👍

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

Yes, but if I say to you that the distance from my front door to my garden gate is six you're going to ask me 'six what?' and that's what we're trying to fathom.

Olly

I have no idea myself lol 🤣, its just a setting that you put a number in APT under 'Dither Distance' I was just going off info Ive read online and trial and error, as I say I'm still very much learning. I should probably find out what it means !😆

2 minutes ago, SkyJamie said:

Congrats on the guiding Rustang, great image!

Thanks mate 👍

So this is how the cables run down to the left towards the table where my laptop sits. If the mount. Was to go off to the right there wouldn't be enough cable slack but if it was other that side but travelled back towards the left to do a flip then I would be ok.