Peter Reader

Have spent a few weeks acquiring all the gear (and learning) needed for guiding and DSO imaging. Thanks to everyone on here who has helped me!

These are my first attempts using Canon1000D and IDAS LPS D2 filter (thanks @scitmon) with the skywatcher 0.9x coma corrector.

Orion: 5 x 3 min lights and 3 x 3 min darks at ISO 800

Rosette: 26 x 3 min lights and 3 x 3 min darks at ISO 800

Stacked in DSS and then levels and curves adjusted repeatedly in Photoshop. I don't think I'm doing a great job of the processing as the single sub previews in NINA look almost better than my processed stacks... any tips?

Thanks for all the replies guys, tonight I had a better session after collimation, new LPS from Scitmon and SW 0.9x coma corrector.

14 hours ago, scitmon said:

Are you are using the Canon DSLR you bought off me?  Images should be saved as CR2 files if so... not tiffs or fits. 

 

CR2 files are also compatible with DSS.  Each image will require a stretch to see all but the brightest stars, and will also need debayering to see colour, but you need not worry about doing this with individual subs.  A DSS stack should debayer them for you.

Scott, I don't have the option to save in CR2 in NINA for some reason... FITS seems to be workin - is there any reason to try and make CR2 work?

Hi all,

Had my first imaging session with PhD2 for guiding and NINA for imaging last night. I was watching the images come in on NINA and they looked to be full of detail and certainly colour (my session included M42).

Went to bed feeling very happy with myself but this morning upon reviewing the saved image files I cannot even see stars in the .tif files without a huge histogram stretch in photoshop and the images are greyscale. DSS doesn't detect stars until 2% threshold (the lowest available).

What might I be doing wrong? Screenshot and raw image attached from last night.

A separate question is how do I get NINA to save meta data with the image files? DSS can't identify ISO or exposure time of the saved image files which is annoying for stacking.

19-42-53_LIGHT_180.00_0010.tif

All images are in the same orientation: primary at 3pm.

I cannot see the edges of the secondary through the Cheshire, but you can see the edge of the focuser tube through the eyepiece cap pinhole with paper behind th secondary (1st image).

Hi all,

Its my first time cleaning mirrors and re-collimating the SW 200P (F5). I have read many collimation posts on here, but would still like your opinions.

In all images the camera is aligned with live view to the best of my ability and the dashed circle annotations are concentric.

My only confident observation is the secondary could be a little better centered under the focuser (white circes).

Is the secondary aligned ok? The mirror clamps all appear equal at the edge of the field of view (green circle).

Is the primmary mirror aligned ok? The Cheshire crosshair (red circle) is central on the primary's doughnut centre sticker.

The shadow of the secondary mirror (blue circle) is centered when viewedd through the eyepiece pinhole but not through the cheshire. Is this because the Cheshire is not held perfectly straight in the focuser?

On 19/12/2021 at 22:53, rl said:

How important the spacing is depends on how critical you are of coma in the corners of your image. Ideally it needs to be +/- better than 1 millimetre. If you ever use a full-frame camera it gets more critical. For me using the standard parts has always worked to my satisfaction but I'm not a pixelpeeping addict. 

The Skywatcher 0.9 coma corrector (CC) is designed for 55mm spacing from the back face of the CC to the image sensor. For this you will need a M48 thread diameter adapter whIch screws into the back of the CC and presents the Canon style lens bayonet fitting to the camera. These are different from the standard lens adapters which have a 42mm diameter thread.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-m48-camera-adapter.html

The distance is made up of about 44mm from the front face of the camera to the sensor plane inside plus the 11mm thickness of the adapter. FLO and others sell the adapter; it's mentioned in the CC blurb. 

You can screw in a 48mm threaded 2" filter into the front of the CC and you should be all set. Sometimes filter threads aren't very clever and it will only engage for 1 turn or so; it's not unusual and not normally a problem. 

Don't forget to show us your first M42...

Thanks for the reply. I've found a  Baader Mark III coma corrector at a good price - I don't suppose you could tell me how I use this with a filter? The SW 0.9x coma corrector specifically mentions a filter thread on the front, but I can't find this info for the Baader...

Hi all,

I'd like to step up my imaging with a 2" Optolong L-Pro Light Pollution Broadband Filter and a Sky-Watcher 0.9x Coma Corrector.

Question 1: does the filter go between coma corrector and camera or before the coma corrector?

Question 2: I'm concerned about the recommended backfocus from the coma corrector (55 mm). Does anyone know if this combination is compatible with my Canon 1000D? How do I work this out?

Best wishes, 

Peter

Followed an excellent tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTT1INA8mAE&ab_channel=AstroExploring

Skywatcher 200P, EQ6-R and Canon 1000D astro mod (new to me, thanks @skitmon). First time using Sequence Generator Pro.

Haven't got guide cam yet so was unguided.

Orion: 5 x 1 min lights + 5 x 1 min darks

Andromeda: 18 x 1 min lights + 5 x 1 min darks

Deep Sky Stacker to stack.

Any tips on processing? Orion was over the town and probably siffering from LP or low number of frames stacked...

1 minute ago, AstroMuni said:

I am no expert on DSLRs as I started off small by purchasing an ASI224mc (see my signature) 🙂 But I am sure others here can advise on DSLRs.

I am guessing this means you have laptop?

Yes I have a laptop

Thanks for the replies.

1 hour ago, vlaiv said:

Mount is a good one.

Auto-guiding is now main stream and very few people don't guide.

Most people also use some sort of computer to control the mount while imaging. This can be laptop, small single board computer like Raspberry PI or even ready made solution like ASIAir that you access/control via phone or tablet.

DSLRs are still pretty much in the game because they are affordable, but dedicated / cooled astronomy cameras are now widely adopted. Adoption of CMOS sensors brought prices of dedicated cameras down considerably. Most people astro mod their DSLR at some point (which includes removing stock UV/IR cut filter and replacing it with one suitable for astrophotography).

With £500 budget - I'd still consider getting DSLR type camera - or rather camera with exchangeable lens - either DSLR or Mirrorless. Later is more modern and lighter - which can be beneficial for astro imaging.

Auto guider setup need not be expensive. You can convert 8x50 finder to guide scope and use that Philips Toucam  or any other web camera as guide cam to get you going. If you own laptop - that reduces costs further as you don't need to invest into that. Only thing you further need is suitable cable to connect laptop and mount.

Take a look at EQMod software. That is software / drivers - to control SkyWatcher mounts via computer. They have section on making suitable cable yourself (further reducing costs as ready made cables are x2-x3 more expensive than DIY solution - which is pretty simple if you know how to crimp cables).

If you get second hand things - I think you'll be able to fit it all into your budget. Second hand DSLR, second hand laptop, and all the bits needed for simple guiding setup - like modified web cam and modified finder.

 

I have a 9 x 50 guidescope and my Toucam has the adaptor to replace a 1.25" eyepiece. Can you point me at a suitable adaptor to connect the two? I found this but it's for T threads https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-sky-watcher-9x50-finder-to-t-adapter.html

12 minutes ago, AstroMuni said:

There are several good suggestions from others above. Here are my thoughts.

To get you back quickly into the hobby with minimal spend.....,

Stage 1: I would start off by using the Nikon D80 (if you still have it). Using software to control your mount and camera is the quickest way to get imaging in my opinion. There are a few free choices there: NINA (if windows) or Kstars/Ekos (if RPi/Linux). Start learning image post processing. I recommend SIRIL (free). So in effect your initial outlay will be mainly for cables.

If your laptop is too old, consider using RPi. (just remember its Linux based)

Once you get back into the stride, you can invest in appropriate camera, guide scope etc.

Stage 2: get guidescope, possibly use Toucam as camera and a better main camera (cooled).

Good luck.

Nikon D80 is no longer available to use so I need to get myself a camera - any specific models you could recommend? 

Hi all,

About 10 years ago I was using SkyWatcher's EQ5 mount and a 200P newtonian to take 1 min unguided images with my father's Nikon D80. After a long break from the hobby (university) I'm now reunited with my 200P and have been enjoying visual astronomy and even some imaging sessions of Jupiter using my ancient Philips Toucam (anyone remember those??).

I've just upgraded my mount to an EQ6-R Pro to better handle the weight of my telescope for long exposure imaging (unguided for the time being) and having been out of the game for a long time I'd really appreciate some equipment advice for restarting astronomy in 2021-2022:

1) are DSLRs still used by amateurs or are dedicated astro cameras now mainstream? Is there a "most popular" astro camera for DSO imaging that you could recommend for someone like me with circa £500 budget.

2) is my 200P 8" newtonian ancient history now and would I be better off with a newer model like a Quattro or even a refractor? 

3) my mount has an auto-guide port. I seem to remember auto-guiders being hated by many in the past - has this changed?

Thanks in advance,

Peter

Just checked with digital callipers: 0.4 mm difference between width of mount boss and the tripod recess. Disappointing for a £1,300 bit of kit...

12 minutes ago, StevieDvd said:

Check that the azimuth peg is long enough, you could be tightening the azimuth bolts over the top (or partly over) and not getting a good enough connection to the peg. I've had similar issues when using the wrong peg size on my Berhlebach tripod and switching between a Vixen GP & EQ5 (they do different length bolts for these).

Also, check the diameter of the base of the mount versus the diameter of the opening, this is in case a previous owner used an adapter to use the tripod with an EQ5 mount. Is there any exposed metal either on the base of the mount or the recess it fits into in the tripod?

 

Steve

Azimuth peg is long enough: see marks from azimuth knobs.

Can see some scoring on the mount and tripod but both surfaces are clean so should seat well enough...

2 minutes ago, ONIKKINEN said:

I have an EQM-35 and while a very different class of mount this also happens and is unavoidable. There are just 2 connections between the mount head and the tripod, the central bolt and the azimuth peg and if the machining tolerances for these are less than perfect (of course they are) you will always have some motion to some direction. In your video you can see that its not actually a rotation around the central bolt axis but a tilting/panning motion to the left. The azimuth peg prevents rotation, but does nothing to prevent the central bolt-mount connection from moving in the hole itself to and from the direction of the azimuth peg even when really tight. The best you can do is just tighten everything as good as can be and leave it be. Shouldn't be a problem in operation since there are no loads being applied to this direction when the mount is slewing/being used.

This is what I suspected - shouldn't be an issue during operature due to the play being around a vertical axis and requiring some force.

Many thanks for everyone's input, I was worried I'd purchased a lemon...

I cannot tighten the azimuth knobs or primary locking shaft any more... having looked around online this seems to have happened to several others as a result of tolerance between the tripod and mount:

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/357566-eq6-r-pro-play-between-mount-and-tripod/

https://youtu.be/Y1xqjMtDFkI

Might not be an issue during operation (unlike backlash) so will continue to set up and try it out...

Thanks for the replies. I have checked and the metal dowel is secure and the azimuth knobs tighten all the way to the dowel. The mount appears to be rotating about the dowel due to improper fit of the mount into the tripod base. I can see the primary locking shaft moving from side to side under the tripod when I force the mount...

Hi all,

Puchased a second hand EQ6-R Pro and I'm noticing that the mount rotates on the tripod base when I push the carry handle.

Is this normal? I probably put more force into rotating the mount that would normally be experienced during use, but I'm surprised there is any movement when the azimuth adjustment knobs and primary locking shaft are tightened.

Thanks

Hi all,

I have a SkyWatcher 200P from circa 2012 (with a black rather than green dovetail as the newer models have) mounted on a new EQ6-R Pro (pictured). Is the dovetail on my telescope compatible with the mount? Looks to be clamped awkwardly...

Many thanks

Thank you.

Hi all,

Do I need a 2" barlow lens for the  ASI224MC or will a 1.25" barlow be sufficient? Are any adaptors needed?

Looking at Tele Vue 3x for planetary...

Best wishes

Thanks for the warm welcomes! Spent this evening getting my old Philips Toucam Pro II running on Windows 10... thanks Hildo 

Which camera is this, Nigella?

On 10/11/2021 at 17:50, Nigella Bryant said:

Or go for the DSO one which can do both.

47 minutes ago, AKB said:

Welcome back, from someone else near Oxford!

200P still talked about and used here, I think you'll find.

For a planetary camera, you'll be amazed by some of the newer CMOS cameras, which can also do the business for DSO.

I'm sure several people with more expertise will be along with advice shortly.

Abingdon has a thriving astro club if you're interested in meeting with others – and we're actually doing Zoom-based observing evenings for a while (once a month.)

Welcome again,

Tony

 

Thanks Tony, I'll have to check out the club some time soon...

Last activity on here was in 2012, after building a DIY telescope for my A level product design project in North Devon. I left astronomy at home to go to university and now nearly 10 years later I'm renting a house with a garden in Oxford.

Will be reunited with my Skywatcher 200P in a few days. How has the technology moved on? Is this telescope still worth using today?

Will be looking to restart astrophotography; can anyone recommend a camera to replace my Philips Toucam for planetary? - it's no longer compatible with my Windows 10 latop it seems... lol

Are there any cameras that can do both planetary and DSO imaging these days or are DSLRs the goto for deep sky and webcams for planets still?

Thanks!