Anthonyexmouth

If the roof doesn't leak you'll be fine.

You don't use bias and dark flats together, they do the same thing. Not that used to DSLR but I think you want to be just bias.

I can see the sea from my pier. Get some wild westerly storms and never had an issue out under the covers 365/24/7. In 6 yrs the only sign of corrosion is the powder coating starting to peel on the Skywatcher counter weights which tbh I'd expect that anyway if i was taking it apart all the time. No sign of it anywhere else. All my cabling is underground and comes up through the centre of the pier from my workshop.

1.2 ton. 900mm square concrete block and 300mm tube pier all poured as a single lump. can imagine in quite breezey weather with good guiding.

The slider changes the brightness on the cam screen. What exposure time did you have on the cam?

Although it was white, was it guiding? Did you play with the slider below the cam window?

Horrifying to see the Tak damaged but TBF, that's on him really. I can't see that storm coming out of nowhere. The only real time electrics get water damaged are when they are powered and get wet and short out. If unpowered just let them dry out properly. With my 1.2t pier I can image in quite windy weather with my dual frac rig and still have good guiding, a newt might not fair so well in the wind.

Exactly, when it's inside its worth nothing. I'm surrounded by neighbours, much to the detriment of my North and Eastern skyline. All of this kit has a lifetime and being setup permanently means I get the most out of it for my money. I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say I probably get more than 10x the imaging time with my setup now than I did when I had to drag it out and setup. PA gets checked twice a year, less wear on connections. Ideally I would have a dome but not enough room in the garden, just need Amazon to start selling automated BBQ covers. I get some can't do it, but if you have the option to build a garden pier and keep your gear setup you'd never regret it. With the BBQ covers it just looks like a patio heater in the garden.

My complete setup stays outdoors all year round. Since doing so my imaging time has vastly increased due to the ability to easily take advantage of a few hours between clouds where before it was too much hassle to setup.

I got some A3+ paper the other day but waiting for the custom profile to get to me before I print. I'd like to try some of the metallic lustre paper, I got a sample and it looks really nice.

Yeah. I was just hoping I could rename them so when wbpp starts up the master flats world load like the matter darks do but have names that are usual. Just bring lazy I guess but would have been nice.

WBPP just lists it as masterflat. was hoping there was some way of changing the name to reflect the date. planning on taking flats at the beginning of every month so I could just manually select the right masterflat in WBPP but doesn't seem thats possible.

Try turning this down on ABE.

What do the images look like before DBE. Can you post a before and after. The default settings on ABE can be too aggressive if there is just a simple gradient and can make the image worse.

I never see anyone discussing cone error, I remember when I first started watching an astronomyshed video about it but never seen it really mentioned again. How does it manifest in images if it's an issue?

That's what I've been doing while I practice with it.

I liked the idea of the tanks but went for the cheaper XP-15000 and so far happy with it. I did think glossy paper would be best but speaking to fotospeed they advised semi gloss/lustre. Just wondering how you find the gloss. I'd have thought gloss would look nicer but I really do know nothing about photo prints. Only using A4 at the moment while I get the hang of it but cant wait to do a nice bit A3+ print.

Nicely done. Gotta move out of my comfort zone and the regualr tools I use in Pixinsight to get more out of objects like this. In the process of getting to grips with GHS at the moment.

Thank Nina for doing the hard work, I was tucked up in bed. I really need a better setup for small objects but I also want a new IMX571 camera to go a bit wider with the setup I've got. The 294 will sit nicely on a scope with longer reach when I have a bit of spare cash to spend. I'd like a MN190 after I buy a new camera.

Well that's not what I wanted to hear. lol. Was hoping to blame the tools.

So, I got just over 7h on the Pinwheel the other night and this is the best I can come up with. Is this a reflection of 1. My ability 2. Integration time 3. Limits of my setup. 430mm with a 294mc Tiff stack if anyone wants a ply themselves. Pinwheel.tif

I had a chat to Cuiv about this and in 5-6 yrs I've never experienced condensation under my cheap oxford 600D fabric covers and mine stay out whatever the weather and survive coastal storms. I layer 3 cheap £15 covers, usually just one layer in the summer months. The TG covers seem so overpriced. The only issue I did have was rusty usb plugs due to being a mile from the sea, but swapping to good cables sorted that

I guess I was just interested to find out if anyone else had this error.

I struggle with getting a good blackout for my dark flats and as I don't need new ones as often as I need flats, which tbh I don't do nearly as often as I should, I try to take the flats just before a session. I'm trying to get in the habit of doing them once a month. Anyway. I figured as I have a permanent outdoor pier setup with nothing changing month to month that would be ok. So if possible I'd like to avoid having to take matching dark flats every time. At the moment I just set image loop on and adjust until my ADU is in the right area then snap off 15x. Just odd that the flats wizard seems to be happy telling me if its too dim or bright but then when it seems in range I get that error.

I'll give it a go later. What I didn't want is NINA changing the exposure length. I want to change the brighness of my panel so I can easily have 2.5s flats and matching flat darks.