Anthonyexmouth
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Posts posted by Anthonyexmouth
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Been meaning to ask this for a while now, does anyone else have bolts that a wobbly when not under load? its like the bolt is slightly too narrow or the thread is slightly off. when tightened its ok. its not actually the bolts it the thread in the mount.
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I am lucky to be in a darkish area. Chart says bortle 3.8 but I'd guess a little higher.
What I miss with PI is the blink feature.
I'll have to start saving for that.
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I wanted to use PI but already had 2 trials and after buying the camera I had to settle on APP for a while and this was my first time using that.
Got 2 clear nights coming up. Not sure whether to add more data to this or pic another target.
Still a bit lost with this camera but so much nicer than the canon.
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Well this is my first image with my ASI294mb Pro, finally joined the big boys with cooled cameras.
10x 240s Unity Gain and 50x darks. No flats.
what process would I use to reduce the amount of stars in the image, seems a bit OTT.
heres the stacked image in case anyone wants to play with it.
processing advice is very welcome.
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Well here's my first image with a cooled camera. Seems re-taking the darks sorted the problem.
Just have to save up for Pixinsight now.
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quick kinda related, are these asi cooled cameras ok on 13.8v? its whats feeding my pier from the workshop or should i run a dedicated 12v supply?
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16 minutes ago, vlaiv said:
Now that is proper dark
Odd warm pixel here and there and amp glow visible, nothing else in that image (well there is bias signal embedded there but it looks like noise in single sub).
Histogram confirms everything is proper:
thanks, i'll set APT off to do 50 while i'm out this afternoon. see what the stack looks like.
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3/4" wood table top.
just letting it cool and i'll post up a new dark, more light screening this time.
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to do the darks I had the camera cap on and sensor down on a table, thought that would help stop light leakage, must have been wrong.
i'll pop the camera off later and redo a few darks.
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L_2019-07-21_00-30-12_Bin1x1_240s__-10C.fitD_2019-07-20_10-29-37_Bin1x1_240s__-10C.fit
heres a light and dark to start with.
its very possible i screwed up the darks being new to the cooled cmos scene.
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Ok, kinda related question. Imaged the East Veil last night for a little while. This morning I stacked the subs in DSS with my darks and the output is only 700ish kb, if i stack without the darks its 100mb.
any ideas?
starting to miss my Canon.
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12 minutes ago, vlaiv said:
Don't do bias frames with CMOS sensors - most have unusable bias frames for some reason or another. You don't need bias frames for proper calibration if you match temperature and exposure length of matching frames (lights and darks, flats and flat darks).
I think it should work well.
Not sure what you are asking - they are easy to see in a sub, especially if you have multiple subs - just blink them and you will see if there are any.
You will recognize it by:
- looks like hot pixel, but it is not a single pixel, but multiple adjacent pixels - most of which are saturated
- it does not look like star (no gaussian profile)
- if it is "round" it means that impact was close to perpendicular on sensor surface, if it is a streak, it means that impact was closer to parallel to sensor surface.
Depending on number of subs you are stacking - you can see them also in final stack if you don't use sigma clip stacking, but it usually takes stretching the data to notice them (much like hot pixels). Although signal saturates in single frame - it is only one of frames and more frames you stack, less contribution those saturated pixels will have. Stack enough frames and you won't be able to distinguish it from noise.
Ah ok, got it. thanks
will need to hammer the credit card again and get the full version of PixinSight. guessing its pushing my luck to as for a 3rd trial.. lol
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Thanks, what I've done so far is take 50x at 60s, 90s, 120s, 240s and 300s at unity gain and -10°. It's been warm and Tec was running at 100% to maintain -15 so thought -10 for summer and -15(20) for winter.
Are cosmic ray hits easy to see or does the stacking sort it?
From what I've seen not many are going much longer with the 294 but if I do I'll make those darks later
Is DSS ok for making master darks?
What about bias frames? With APT it won't give me the option for really short subs
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Now I've got a cooled camera I set it off making a dark library. What's the best process for creating a master dark? Do you just stack them as you would lights?
Is it worth making a master dark?
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Well, finally put my hand in my pocket and bought the asi294 MC pro and had a clear night the very next day, world will probably end now.
Anyway, bit of a learning curve coming from the Canon. When using live view in APT I got an ok view but even 60sec subs were very dark. Was set to unity gain in the driver.
Is there a different workflow when using a dedicated camera compared to DSLR?
Also, sharpcap had no trouble with the cooling but APT kept falling.
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Be a bit of a win for a few people if a screen can be tracked down. In my search I've found a few posts of people with broken screens but only the usual result of suppliers trying to flog a new handset
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Just checked the numbers on the back light but no luck.
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Found plenty of 30 pin. But nothing as yet in the right form factor. I don't think for one minute that it's a bespoke display. I wonder if the screen is the same in other versions.
Hate to lose this for the sake of a £1 screen
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Yeah, can't imagine any takers at that price.
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Just now, knobby said:
Is there any identifying mark on back, maybe AliExpress would have it ?
blank on the back and numbers on the front don't bring up anything on a search
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9 minutes ago, BillyBoy said:
There a dead one on eBay at the moment...saw it the other day...
Edit: just checked and it’s gone...sorry...
i just found one, they want £50 for a faulty one. do you remember what they were asking?
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1 minute ago, Cosmic Geoff said:
Fine if you can manage it, but I suspect that the 'screen' doesn't just unplug or unscrew, and to change it you will need specialist surface mount desoldering/soldering equipment that will cost more than a replacement handset.
No, just a ribbon cable, that's what makes it a frustrating waste if I can't get another screen.
Eastern Veil
in Imaging - Deep Sky
Posted
I think mine is actually bortle 4. As for being my regular site, it's my backyard. Some pollution maps say 3.8 and they might be right after the street lamps go out. Milky way is very bright overhead on a clear night.