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Posts posted by Anthonyexmouth
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is there an easy way to work out how much time you should spend on a target before you see diminishing returns?
just wondering as I think i had some good data from the pelican last night, 3.5 hours and wondering how much more time i should spend on it, if any.
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2 minutes ago, MattJenko said:
Bit left field, but how about a fully loaded Explorer 130PDS. Proven amazing little scope, 650mm FL, works wonderfully on your HEQ5 and because the OTA is cheap so you could splash out on awesome focuser and dew heaters etc etc.
if i had an obsy i might consider a newt but my pier is a little too exposed and would be worried about wind wobble.
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Can anyone here give me the lowdown on the good, bad and ugly of this please.
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I'm looking at getting one of these for my 294. Altair are touting their triband for heavy light polluted areas and the quad band for moderately polluted areas. both are the same price at £215
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Been looking around for an upgrade to my ED80 but it seems most of the modest upgrade options are all 400-500mm. I'm looking for something 550-650ish. The esprit 100 would be nice but too expensive at the moment. I could possibly stretch to £1000 new but more than happy going cheaper for a used one.
Any recommendations?
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Just now, jadcx said:
I’m reading this thread in both excitement and fear. I’m currently not ‘allowed’ to build an observatory, so having to set up and break down every night. Maybe stupidly, I hadn’t considered leaving my ‘temporary’ setup outside. It would obviously be a game changer if the approaching dark skies could be enjoyed more often.
But... what about theft? My gear isn’t as expensive as some on here of course, but if it was stolen I doubt my insurance would cover it when it transpires that I left it in the garden for a few weeks. Maybe I’m worrying unnecessarily?
just fit a motion security light thats switchable. i've got one pointed at the pier in the garden. on nights its not being used the light is powered and anyone coming near it gets lit up like the stage at the O2.
Also, lifes too short to worry too much. Since building my pier in the garden and having it setup 24/7 i'm much more inclined to whip the cover off if its clear for an hour. In the past it would have to be clear all night to make it worth setting up.
I've got even lazier too, the pier is powered from the workshop at the end of the garden, 12v/240v and switched with an alexa enabled socket so i just shout at my poor echo device to turn the telescope on and the hardest job i have is taking the cover off. Im still working on a way to automate that.
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1 minute ago, carastro said:
I have a cheapo EL screen from Ebay, and so long as I put a piece of white typing paper over it to diffuse the light, it works fine.
Carole
cool, guess at £25 its worth a punt.
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1 minute ago, DaveS said:
Thanks, I'll keep it in mind, though ATM I'm looking for a more solid connection.
The deepskydad one was on my list to get until the ZWO one got released, it sits nicely between the DSD and the primaluce for price but gives the compact benefit of the more expensive one.
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my tablet is just a little narrow for my ed80. nvidia shield table is 8" but widescreen so half inch too narrow.
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starting to think my t-shirt flats are causing me some issues.
been looking at panels to do flats but they seem stupid expensive.
would one of these work?
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8 hours ago, Fieldsy said:
Take cameras off ?
No, everything stays setup.
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2 minutes ago, WanderingEye said:
www.dewcontrol.com
i had one made there...
Or cut the rj45 off and re fit your own, they just crimp on, and only use three wires..
Duh, completely missed the rj45 plug. too consumed with it being USB. RJ45 crimps are on the bench as i'm typing this.
I cant imagine getting a custom length one made would be cheaper than butchering this one and buying a standard one as a spare.
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it'll be fine on a usb2 port. If its being used for guiding or long exposure imaging USB2 is fine. USB3 really comes into its own when using it for fast/high frame rate video capture for planetary.
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Try running APT as administrator. It has a habit of not playing ball sometimes and running as administrator sometimes sorts it. Also try connection cdc and apt to the eqmod simulator and then back onto the ASCOM HEQ5/6 option.
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2 minutes ago, Calzune said:
Thanks, will try that today 😊
Make sure it's a few miles away if possible. Then make a line with a pen on the draw tube where it focuses, that way it'll be very close every time you setup
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3 minutes ago, Calzune said:
Heq 5 pro
Evostar 72ed
Field flattner (non reducer)
Canon eos 1100d
Things to check first are camera focus and getting a sharp image. Set up in the day and focus on a far object, chimney, tree, pole.
An out of focus camera will be impossible to use.
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can you tell us what setup you have.
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3 minutes ago, Likwid said:
Freddie: I always level my mount even though I know I don't need to. I am using the Hand Controller currently for everything. I built a cable for EQMOD, but I am waiting to add that into the mix until I get more comfortable with everything else. The hand controller tells me where Polaris need to be, I double check it with an app that I have on my phone and make sure that it is dead center in the circle after my mount is perfectly level. I never take shortcuts with my polar alignment. I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing
It's worth looking into using sharpcap for PA or drift align with PHD2. I can't have looked through my polar scope more than a dozen times. saves the knees and its more accurate.
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+1 for being too in focus on your guide, a little off focus can help.
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1 hour ago, Davey-T said:
Can my guiding be improved (cheaply/free!)
in Imaging - Tips, Tricks and Techniques
Posted
+1 for the 290. I was using an older 120m which was ok but when it started playing up I couldnt afford a new one so i demoted my 290c from planetary imaging, which it did very little, to being a guide cam. Very happy with it, if i could afford a mono one i imagine it would be even better. using it with an ST80