Anthonyexmouth

23 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

They are raw images with bayer matrix, you need to calibrate them and then debayer to get color out of them. Bayer matrix setting for this camera model is RGGB if I'm not mistaken.

correct

heres the lights/darks/flats

not had time to do the dark flats yet.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nIk1YOAIJnij2MAqulXBJj9WEZWj7oEw?usp=sharing

I just followed the suggested settings in DSS for stacking. K/sig for lights and median K/Sig for flats/darks. 

only had the trial of PixinSight but really miss that kinda workflow. its intimidating to start but after watching astrodudes tutorials it really is nice to work with. 

must start saving to buy it and not get distracted with toys 

thanks, i'll start making a google drive folder. 

any idea why its so noisy? is that something with the stacking or the raw images?

i think the offset is 30. havent played with it as i read somewhere that its fixed now with the latest drivers. 

flats were done with a t-shirt outside and i let APT work it out with the CCD flats aid. 

yeah i used DSS because i was getting frustrated with APP. 

Heres one of my darks and flats

D_2019-07-21_12-45-14_Bin1x1_240s__-10C.fit

F_2019-07-28_08-34-29_Bin1x1_0.00547s__-7C.fit

Since spending all my money on my my new camera i didnt leave enough to upgrade to the full version of Pixinsight which i was getting on with in a very basic way. This lack of money forced me to go for a rental of APP and also trying GIMP. 

With the learning curve of the new cooled camera and new processing software im really struggling to get anywhere. Everything is too over processed or a black screen.

Any advice would be appreciated

my latest attempt, the soul nebula (poorly framed) struggling with framing as well with the new camera. previews dont seem as bright as the old canon.

included the stacked tiff too if anyone wants to play with it

Autosave.tif

45x240s 

50 darks

50 flats

Had some success with my new cooled camera imaging the east and west veil and would like to take a mosaic of the entire region.

currently using APT for camera control and was wondering if there is an easy(ish) way to do an automated mosaic routine.

i looked at eq mosaic but don't really get how you use it for imaging or integrate it into anything. 

1 minute ago, russ said:

Pretty sure that looks to have 4 x USB 3.0, not USB 2.0 as per Altair Astro.

fingers crossed, the ioptron has been tempting me but this might be worth waiting for.

8 minutes ago, Yawning Angel said:

Unless the colour coding is off (the blue), that looks to have 4 x USB3 ports! Now that would be nice!

i think it would be incredibly short sighted to not have usb3 on a mount released now. 

with eqmod open and the window active/on top press (Alt + Prt Scr) that grabs a screen cap of the open window. then reply in here and press (CTRL+ V) to paste the image into the reply box

wasnt sure if this goes in mounts or software. 

I set APT to auto flip last night but it failed with an error.

is there a setting in eqmod that i have to do to make this work? 

sharpcap is great. as long as you have a view of the area around polaris you'll be ok. well worth the £10

Can you control the mount properly NESW with the eqmod interface? 

what scope are you using? 

Gain is controlled by the driver. 

Even the stretched preview doesn't seem as exposed as my DSLR . I sold the canon so can't actually compare side by side. It may be fine and maybe I was expecting too much of a difference, the processed image is so much nicer than the canon though. For framing I've been binning the image for speed. 

6 minutes ago, wookie1965 said:

I thought of that using something hold it on if it didn't illuminate straight away and the button that turns the brightness up did turn it off that would be great.

As it doesn't just going burn through the batteries. I thought of rethreading it but I've not got anything big enough to do it.

Thank you for your replys appreciate all your help.

just use a band to keep the top on while you align, then take it off. no need to burn through batteries, keep it in a ziplock bag so you dont lose the bits.

9 minutes ago, JamesF said:

I think Anthony is probably right.  I assume the screw thread allows a gap to open up between the battery terminal and the battery to turn it off.  A fairly hideous piece of design IMNSHO, and one that probably makes a fix quite awkward.

Perhaps, given some faffing about, it might be possible to wire in a switch somehow and keep the cap permanently in the "on" position, but I'm inclined to believe it would be more work than it's worth.

James

cheap option would be a bit of tin foil under the cap and a strong elastic band to keep it switched on. 

probably gonna have to make do with taping it or elastic band when you want to use it. 

any meaningful faffing is probably not worth it in time and bits and better to just buy a new one. i stepped on mine, new ones are about £20

Just now, Thalestris24 said:

0 maybe not such a good idea ha ha...

yeah, i agree, it was set to 2 when it was failing, i'll try 4

3 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Maybe try increasing the cooling step size? Is the camera's usb connection ok?

Louise

i just set the step to 0 and it rocketed down. 

32 minutes ago, mark skelton said:

When you do the master darks, do you do master bias as well or will the darks do both?

not done any bias frames, been told they aint needed so much with this camera. I'll start making the effort to do flats though. 

it cools down fairly quickly in sharpcap but APT kinda stalls. it starts cooling then it'll timeout and when i restart the cooling it sometimes sticks at whatever temp it got to. i havent been able to get to -20 yet, been +20ish since i got the camera. got to -18 in sharpcap but sticking to -10 until it gets cooler. 

Has anyone else had any issues with the APT cooling aid? my first time using it with my asi294. It keeps timing out even with a long timeout set and sometimes fails to reach temp. SharpCap on the other hand cools the camera with no issues at all. So guessing its not a camera issue.

ah ok, just wondered if mine had been tapped wrong. almost tempted to drill it out and tap it to a fine M12 thread